Frame Questions from a newbee
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Frame Questions from a newbee
I have a 53 f100 that i am going to install a mustang II from TCI and also there rear leafsprings. I want to box my frame and maybe do an x brace. My question is what to do with the factory crossmembers. Do I box around them or try to rework them. If anybody has any pictures of theirs I would love to see them. Thanks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,734
Likes: 2
From: Kansas City area
Welcome-
Are you thinking of boxing from front to back? You only need to box in areas that need it, such as the area for the IFS , trans crossmember, and rear end. I was thinking the IFS vendors supplied the necessary boxing plates. The original frame needs to be able to flex some as that was how it was designed. I'm sure someone will be along to add to my comments. In the meanwhile check out the tech articles on this site by John Niolon. 56FUN
Are you thinking of boxing from front to back? You only need to box in areas that need it, such as the area for the IFS , trans crossmember, and rear end. I was thinking the IFS vendors supplied the necessary boxing plates. The original frame needs to be able to flex some as that was how it was designed. I'm sure someone will be along to add to my comments. In the meanwhile check out the tech articles on this site by John Niolon. 56FUN
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Petaluma, California
yellowducman,
I'm in the process of finishing up my frame. I boxed from the back of the radiator crossmember to the front of the furthest rear crossmember, here’s what I did with my crossmembers: I removed the transmission crossmember and made one for my engine/tranny combo; on the next crossmember (the one under the back of the cab) I boxed into it then boxed the crossmember itself; on the next crossmember I made some triangular pieces to tie it into the boxing plates; I removed the crossmember for the shock mounts; and on the last crossmember I boxed into it and then boxed the crossmember. Also if you do decide to box your whole frame remember to have a way to mount running board brackets, cut out slots in the boxing plate so you can get to the nuts for the bed bolts, you may also want to drill holes so you can get a socket on the bolts for the rear cab-mounts, and you may want to have your suspension all set up so you know if you need to add anything else before boxing. I can take more recent pictures and e-mail you or add them to my gallery this weekend if you want.
Paul
I'm in the process of finishing up my frame. I boxed from the back of the radiator crossmember to the front of the furthest rear crossmember, here’s what I did with my crossmembers: I removed the transmission crossmember and made one for my engine/tranny combo; on the next crossmember (the one under the back of the cab) I boxed into it then boxed the crossmember itself; on the next crossmember I made some triangular pieces to tie it into the boxing plates; I removed the crossmember for the shock mounts; and on the last crossmember I boxed into it and then boxed the crossmember. Also if you do decide to box your whole frame remember to have a way to mount running board brackets, cut out slots in the boxing plate so you can get to the nuts for the bed bolts, you may also want to drill holes so you can get a socket on the bolts for the rear cab-mounts, and you may want to have your suspension all set up so you know if you need to add anything else before boxing. I can take more recent pictures and e-mail you or add them to my gallery this weekend if you want.
Paul
New User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: michigan
check out proggressiveautomotive ....they have an x-member that is made out of round tubing....they do a great job with it....they also offer boxing kits for most makes and models of cars and trucks....I have a frame for my 52 f1 that was made by them, they used 87 corvette front and rear suspension on it....
Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
This is what I did, I removed all but the 2 rearmost crossmembers. Welded in nuts for the running board brackets ect, used 3/16 plate to box the frame and built an x-member from 1x2. There is a picture in my gallery.
Trending Topics
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Petaluma, California
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
From: Queanbeyan Australia
I boxed everything except the front and rear chassis horns
Boxed to the 1/4" off the edges of each crossmember
Modified gearbox crossmember
I am a big fan of what has become known as "stepped boxing"
Basicaly, the boxing plate is recessed about 1/2" in from the inside of the chassis.
It has a number of advantages:
Boxed to the 1/4" off the edges of each crossmember
Modified gearbox crossmember
I am a big fan of what has become known as "stepped boxing"
Basicaly, the boxing plate is recessed about 1/2" in from the inside of the chassis.
It has a number of advantages:
You don't grind down the welds, saving much work
It's propably stronger because you don't grind the weld bead down
You can stitch weld (inch on, two off etc)
You end up with a recess that protects brake lines , fuel lines, wiring etc
It is less prone to creating stress cracks because there is less of a sharp corner and the edges don't intersect.
It's propably stronger because you don't grind the weld bead down
You can stitch weld (inch on, two off etc)
You end up with a recess that protects brake lines , fuel lines, wiring etc
It is less prone to creating stress cracks because there is less of a sharp corner and the edges don't intersect.