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The hard part about blown FE's....ain't no just popp'n the cap off any time you want. Better put the good stuff in first time. It's a real bear getting 200 lbs of blower, carbs, scoop, etc off the motor to be able to get to dizzy!
I just got a nice tach drive dual point that I will be putting in that car this spring. I might put a Unilite conversion in it, maybe not.
I have a 73F100 with a 302. It would go through points like crazy. One of my neighbors used to run a NAPA store. He told me to switch to Blue Streaks. I did, and they did the trick.
My current daily driver is a 79F100 with a 300. The first thing I did when I bought it was to replace all the ignition componets with Blue Streaks (coil, voltage regulator, ignition module, cap, rotor). After 5 years and 150,000+ miles I have only had to replace caps and rotors. I have had no problems with either the voltage regulator or the ignition module.
My project 76F100 with a 390 will receive the same treatment.
Blue Streak is the premium brand for Standard Electric. The green box and red box flavors from Standard Electric work all right, they just don't last as long. And when you drive the commute that I do ( 54 miles one way) on a graveyard shift, the extra cost of the Blue Streaks is inconsequential.
I was useing autozone 6 dollar points and hating life.
I switched over to petronix, and after I burned up the second unit in rush hour traffic christmas eve... I yanked the electronic stuff out.
I went with points/condensor from CarQuest, ~20 bux.
When they are done, I'll try the blue streaks.
My starts, idle and fuel mileage have not deteriorated over the petronix.
My plugs are still gap'd at 0.045".
I'm with Freighttrain, as points deterioriate(sp?) you'll know and have time to take care of things in your leisure. When electronic ignition fails, it fails now, without warning. A real pitb.
Is the NAPA blue streak brand parts made in the USA? I know Standard has been a quality replacement part over the years. The last Accel cap I bought has 'made in china" on the inside. Had the brass inserts also. G.
Would that be brass inserts or brass painted aluminum inserts? China has a 512 Billion dollar a year knock off scam going on with products around the world. GM has a vehicle called "Spark" made in China, they copied it and it's selling 14 to 1 over the Spark for $3,600 plus a $750 rebate. Labor is $1 an hour and major US companies are manufacturing in China. They will be the next super power! Made in America means the part was machined overseas and "assembled" here or machined here and "assembled" overseas. American made power tools like Porter Cable, Delta, Milwaukee read the label in small print. My 68 CS hates rice, it gets the farts.
Carl I just checked and they are brass inserts and not painted. I was just kind of surprised to see "made in china" under an Accel cap. BTW not the best looking inserts either. After taking a good look at them the brass inserts have ridges on some of them on the underside. The cap is still new and has not been used yet. I've seen better looking USED caps come to think of it. Not quite what I was expecting from Accel quality wise. I've used Accel for a long time as a second to Motorcraft. Thanks for bringing this up and guess I'll be looking at new components. G.
Something else of interest here. The box the cap came in part number 8222 has printed on it MADE IN USA with a sticker next to it saying MADE IN CANADA. guess they need another that says the cap is MADE IN CHINA. What a load of crap. The cap was purchased at Auto Zone so buyer beware. I've learned to trust some things over the years. Guess these days are long gone. This sucker is going back to them in the morning. Carl thanks again for the enlightment!
Also beware of CarQuest replacement parts, they are at the bottom of the barrel in quality. I went thru two "brand new lifetime" water pumps in less than a month. The seal leaked in three days, the other had bearing failure in three weeks, I run loose belts. Bearing made in China. With AC and power steering to remove and fluid loss not counting your time lost, lesson learned. Get a Chebby truck, made in America, South. Hoover bearings (was US), made in Japan. SKF wheel bearing in a BMW, cups and cones made in different countries. Sorry I'm venting. NUFF B S N 4 NOW.
I was having problems with my Autozoo "lifetime" warranty water pump. I finally went to my local parts house, which is affiliated with PartsPlus. Anyway, I paid extra for a brand new water pump. That was three years and 90,000 miles ago, and it hasn't let me down yet.
Put a 1976 Duraspark distributor and fire it with an MSD6A and a matching MSD Blaster coil. I've run this combo in FEs and Small blocks and it is super. Very dependable and the spark improvement is great. This allows you to use a street friendly vacuum advance distributor. The internals on a Duraspark are the same as an MSD so it wires right up.
I'd like to update my electronic back to points experience.
I was getting 10mpg with electronic.
My first tank of gas with points, I somehow got 10mpg... maybe I there was no red traffic lights on that tank, I dunno.
Every tank since has been 8.3mpg.
For 20% gain in fuel economy, I'll likely go back to electronic again.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.