Metal Cutting
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: middle tennessee
Our local hardware store also does plumbing. I do enough business that I can get a piece of pipe cut to length free. Even walking in the door new, it shouldn't cost more than a couple of bucks to have a nice clean & straight cut just the way you want it.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 290
Likes: 1
From: South TX
I converted my old Makita 10" miter/chop saw after getting a new compound miter saw for trim work several years ago. The old Makita is pretty HD, and I've used it to cut metal (with an abrasive blade), tile (with a diamond blade), and framing lumber and fire wood. It's one tough old tool. The precise accuracy is not what it was when new, but very capable for what I use it for. And I use it alot. Would have expected the abrasive dust to do the motor bearings in by now, but she's still cutting/running fine after several years of this abuse.
Not sure it has an 8 1/4" capacity though.
Not sure it has an 8 1/4" capacity though.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 592
Likes: 0
From: BC, Canada
A trick I use to cut pipe straight is to put a hose clamp around the pipe and line up one edge with where you want to cut. As you tighten the clamp it automatically finds it's own "square" and you can either cut alongside it with a hack saw or zip cut.
Try it.
Try it.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Canada
I can't believe the number of responses I got on this thread. ALL GREAT IDEAS!! I ended up using the clamp and drawing a line, cutting with a hacksaw and putting my angle grinder in a vise then squaring up the tubing against it. It's as perfect as I need it to be and once I finish putting in the new 220V line for my welder I'll be all set. Thanks again everyone!
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Utah
I use a Mikita miter saw, with a 14" metal blade that has been used enough to fit on the 10" Makita saw. I love the angles I can now cut. Saw is strong enough to handle good size projects in my shop. Cash flow and the need to get a job done can be powerfull allies.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
I use a sawzall (reciprocating saw) with a bi-metal blade. It cuts faster than an hacksaw and usually is easier to keep straight. When grinding to square up the ends, I wrap the pipe with 1" masking tape, keeping the tape flat and smooth as I go around, and grind down to the edge of the tape and no more. Then I grind a chamfer at 45 degrees and weld it.
Hope this helps in the future.
Hope this helps in the future.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Years ago I bought a cheap chop saw and some new wheels. I burned the motor up on the chop saw before I finished with all of the new wheels. I agree with Rosati. I have had a sawzall for 10 years and I love it. I call it a hacksaw on steriods. I use it to cut all of my thinner stuff. The thicker stuff I use a plasma cutter or torch. Then I square it all up with a grinder. All of this is more portable than my chopsaw was. Won't go back to a chop saw now.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Bothell, WA
Obviously there are a lot of ways to make a cut. The advantage to a good metal cutting chop saw or a bench band saw is that they will save a lot of time getting the job done. When you make a cut with these machines it's done accurately in the time it will take to wrap the masking tape around a piece to true up a hand cut but I acknowledge that sometimes a person gets a lot of satisfaction doing work with alternate methods. My son can't weld worth a cent with a torch or an arc but you should watch him crank up his forge, cut his parts on the anvil, hammer them into shape and finish with a fusion weld that's better than anything I can put together. New and modern ain't always better.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
The problem with chop saws is the cut ends are way overheated by the time your done. This in turn weakens the steel and once welded, will be prone to cracking because it's too brittle. Cold cutting is really the only way to go. For stands and such, any method will work, but rollcages and structural items should be cold cut.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Bothell, WA
The problem with chop saws is the cut ends are way overheated by the time your done. This in turn weakens the steel and once welded, will be prone to cracking because it's too brittle.
Thanks!
Last edited by tdford; Feb 24, 2005 at 09:29 PM. Reason: matter of ettiquite
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Utah
I use both a cut off saw and a Makita mitre saw w/metal blade. Had to use a blade that had been worn down a bit to fit the Makita. The use of the mitre saw lets me cut at various angles, which I can't do with the cut off saw. Just gives me an extra option in the shop.
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