?? for floor heating users
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Canada
?? for floor heating users
Just curious... do you have a thermometer on the line entering the floor? What temp do you run the lines going into the floor? What temp is best in your opinion? Thanks for the input.
Pilgrim
Pilgrim
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: north central illinois
if i remember right when we set the floor up my buddy who works heating and air had a thermometer on the supply line and wanted it around like 110 to 120 if i remember right. i have just a wall t-stat to control room temp.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
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140' F is the top limit for in the floor heat in concrete or gypsum floors, you can do this with a mixing valve or boiler temperature. 110 to 120' F is prefered. Did you know you can put in floor heat in the house, if you have a basement or crawl space? They have special clips to hold the heat Pex pipe in place against the subfloor. Then you insulate over the pipes. I hope you guys are using the right pipe for these floor heating systems, such as Heat PEX, Kitec XPA. The pipe is generally red or orange in color, will say oxygen barrier on pipe. Also where it come out of the floor it sould be in long sweep PVC elbows. For multiple pipes I prefer making a soft styro foam box. Wood form with the styro on the outside of it, pull the wood out when concrete sets, leaving the foam. Then fill the box with custom cut foam. If you have any couplings under the floor, (personally I'd avoid them like the plague), they need to be double heat shrink tube incased.
Last edited by Aftrmidnite; Jan 28, 2005 at 08:02 AM. Reason: Adding
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: north central illinois
the stuff i used was red with and had an aluminiun layer sandwiched between the 2 layers of plastic, got it from some company in minnisota that specializes in in floor heat and wood fired boilers. i didn't get the wood fired boiler but they where neat. no splices in the floor and nice long swepeing bends. only thin i didn't do is the foam where it comes out of the floor at. have to remember that on the next one. i have seen the clips and also reflective sheets that go on the bottom on the subfloor. only thing that scares me there is if someone doesn't look and lays hardwook down. man it would be rain'n like the rain forest in your basement.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
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Originally Posted by sparky30_06
The stuff I used was red, and had an aluminium layer sandwiched between the 2 layers of plastic.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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The lower you run your floor temt the more efficent it will be and the easier on your feet. We run shop floors on 12 inch centers with 2" of styrene insulation at 85* with -40* outside with no problem here in the north my 1000 sq. ft. hobby shop is done without insulation under floor and I use 95* if it gets much higher the feet get sore.
We do snow melt systems on parkade entrance ramps outside those run at 6 to 8" centers with 120 t0 140 degree Glycol temp.Most Pex tubbing made today will take up to 180 degree with out breaking down the oxygen barrier on the tube.
We do snow melt systems on parkade entrance ramps outside those run at 6 to 8" centers with 120 t0 140 degree Glycol temp.Most Pex tubbing made today will take up to 180 degree with out breaking down the oxygen barrier on the tube.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Canada
I have the boiler set at 115*F. It is a 10kw boiler, at this temp the second stage rarely comes on. Shop is 28 by 32, 10 ft. walls. With the temp set higher it is uncomfortable underneath a vechile. Have not noticed a difference in the Hydro bill either way...Don
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
30x40 temp set at 60 deg at wall 65 at slab with outdoor temp included so floor doesn't spike when it gets really cold outside. 130 deg in 110 out is about perfect for my situation. 130 deg you can hold onto the pipe for about 10 sec without screaming.
140 you can't
Alot depends where the pipe is in the floor. Up near the surface 25 btu's sq ft down at the bottom could be as low as 16 btu's sq ft output. I like to get the pipe in the upper half of a 6 inch floor..
140 you can't
Alot depends where the pipe is in the floor. Up near the surface 25 btu's sq ft down at the bottom could be as low as 16 btu's sq ft output. I like to get the pipe in the upper half of a 6 inch floor..
Last edited by 99f350sd; Jan 29, 2005 at 09:54 AM.
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Keep the temp low. 90 degrees F to maybe 100 degrees F. You don't want to shock your floor or equipment with dramatic expansion or contraction. This can be achieved w/mixing valves. The low grade radiant heat is very efficient. You can add outdoor temp sensors to over-ride the interior thermostat in the event of approaching cold weather. Low grade radiant heat is slow to react unlike conventional boiler system design. However, once the thermal mass has been heated, ie.,, the concrete slab, heat will be stored for several days. You can rig up a thermostat/switch by using accessories from portable torpedo heaters. Laying the unit on the floor and adjusting to desired temp. then plugging it into the pump that circulates from your heat source through your pex lines. The pump only runs when floor cools below your setting.
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