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Rear disc brakes??
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 153
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I put disc brakes on my CJ AMC20 and on my friends F150 8.8 in the rear.
What I did was buy the brackets from A&A MFG (7 bucks each (2 req)) and then went to the parts store and got some GM calipers (eldorado if you want an ebrake still) and then start digging through the discs until you find the ones you need.
Then after spending about 30 min finding the right discs I took it home and jacked up the rear, supported it with jack stands, then took out the axle shafts. On the F150 I had to drain the diff and pull the C Clips out (damn c clip axles). After I got the axle shafts out I started grinding away an area to weld. Then I slid the axle shafts back on with the rotors on them and then sit the caliper and bracket on the axle and tack it. Then the same for the other side, then weld it all up and you get something like this:
The total conversion for the F150 was 14 for the brakets, 40 for the rotors, and about 25 for the calipers. So a total of 79 dollars or thereabouts. Plus about 5-6 hours of work, probably could have done it quicker, but it kept wanting to rain.
On the CJ it cost another 100 or so because the eldorado calipers are more expensive
What I did was buy the brackets from A&A MFG (7 bucks each (2 req)) and then went to the parts store and got some GM calipers (eldorado if you want an ebrake still) and then start digging through the discs until you find the ones you need.
Then after spending about 30 min finding the right discs I took it home and jacked up the rear, supported it with jack stands, then took out the axle shafts. On the F150 I had to drain the diff and pull the C Clips out (damn c clip axles). After I got the axle shafts out I started grinding away an area to weld. Then I slid the axle shafts back on with the rotors on them and then sit the caliper and bracket on the axle and tack it. Then the same for the other side, then weld it all up and you get something like this:
The total conversion for the F150 was 14 for the brakets, 40 for the rotors, and about 25 for the calipers. So a total of 79 dollars or thereabouts. Plus about 5-6 hours of work, probably could have done it quicker, but it kept wanting to rain.
On the CJ it cost another 100 or so because the eldorado calipers are more expensive
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 30
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Looks like a nice setup. Did you change anything in the master cylinder department? Wouldnt you need to remove the residual valve? Also what did the rotors end up coming from. And what year of truck did you put these on? Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 153
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The master cylinder is still stock. We took out the proportioning valve and the ABS (cause he didn't want it anymore). He can lock up the rears whenever he wants to now. He was planning on installing an adjustable proportioning valve, but it is pretty even right now and they only lock up when he really slams on the brakes. I'm not sure what the rotors came off of exactly. I'll try to remember and ask him the next time I see him to see if he has any part numbers. And they went on a 97 F150.
I think for a pre 97 (5x5.5 bolt pattern, not that weird metric crap that 97 has) you can just use 79 CJ front brake rotors. Not sure, maybe Ford front brake rotors would work. Like I said before, it doesn't take long to find a set of rotors, but I'll try and get a part number for the 97 for you.
-Andrew
I think for a pre 97 (5x5.5 bolt pattern, not that weird metric crap that 97 has) you can just use 79 CJ front brake rotors. Not sure, maybe Ford front brake rotors would work. Like I said before, it doesn't take long to find a set of rotors, but I'll try and get a part number for the 97 for you.
-Andrew
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Brandon Mb
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,959
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From: USA
The axle housing is 3 parts: The housing center section (where the differential and ring & pinion gears are) is cast. The 2 axle tubes and brake backing plates are not cast. The tubes are pressed into the center housing, then plug welded to keep them from moving.
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