Codes,Codes,Codes!! 33,34,41,42,13.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Today I had time to do the regulator test as fefarms suggested. I removed the vac line and cycled the key ~3-4 times. I checked the regulator and it is bone-dry. No fuel leakage at all. Is that the only way an FPR can go bad, with just a broken diaphragm?
Tomorrow I'll check all spark plugs to see if one(hopefully just one) is darker than the rest. If thats the case, is replacing the leaking injector the only way to fix the problem?
Tomorrow I'll check all spark plugs to see if one(hopefully just one) is darker than the rest. If thats the case, is replacing the leaking injector the only way to fix the problem?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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It is somewhat more likely that the fuel is back-flowing through a leaky check valve in the tank than that there is a leaking injector. It is possible to pinpoint this somewhat if you can plug up the output of the regulator. Perhaps you can remove the regulator's connection to the stock injector rail and substitute a temperary rubber hose plugged with a bolt.
If the rapid bleed-down problem goes away, you have a leaking injector. If it doesn't, it is either the check valve in the tank or the regulator.
To isolate this, remove the return line from the regulator and substitute yet another temporary rubber hose. Repeat the test. If the bleed-down problem stops, the regulator is bad. If it persists, the check valve in one of the tanks is bad.
Do you have any mysterious fuel transfer problems with this truck? Does one of your fuel guages go up when you aren't using that tank? This can be an indication of a problem with the check valve in the tank which "fills itself".
If the rapid bleed-down problem goes away, you have a leaking injector. If it doesn't, it is either the check valve in the tank or the regulator.
To isolate this, remove the return line from the regulator and substitute yet another temporary rubber hose. Repeat the test. If the bleed-down problem stops, the regulator is bad. If it persists, the check valve in one of the tanks is bad.
Do you have any mysterious fuel transfer problems with this truck? Does one of your fuel guages go up when you aren't using that tank? This can be an indication of a problem with the check valve in the tank which "fills itself".
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Postmaster
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
I also thought of the 'gas going to other tank' theory. I left the Rear tank near Empty for a couple of weeks and only filled up the Front tank. I checked the rear tank and it is at the exact same spot.
With my luck, of all the sockets I have, none of them fit the spark plugs nor do I have a plug socket. I'll get one asap.
Whenever I fire up the truck cold, black liquid carbon actually comes out of the tailpipe. I don't know if it could be fuel or not, but it's pretty nasty.
I'll do the tests you suggested and post back the results. Thanks
.
With my luck, of all the sockets I have, none of them fit the spark plugs nor do I have a plug socket. I'll get one asap.
Whenever I fire up the truck cold, black liquid carbon actually comes out of the tailpipe. I don't know if it could be fuel or not, but it's pretty nasty.
I'll do the tests you suggested and post back the results. Thanks
.
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Postmaster
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Sorry for the late update....
Plugs are exactly the same, so (hopefully) its not the injectors.
This is whats new: I left the gauge on, as guzzler suggested, and read the pressure at IDLE. It was 64PSI ! Now, is it just me or is that WAY to high for IDLE pressure? So, maybe the regulator IS bad?
Plugs are exactly the same, so (hopefully) its not the injectors.
This is whats new: I left the gauge on, as guzzler suggested, and read the pressure at IDLE. It was 64PSI ! Now, is it just me or is that WAY to high for IDLE pressure? So, maybe the regulator IS bad?
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Postmaster
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Will replace regulator. What can cause pressure this high? Maybe a stuck open regulator?
Do I have to remove other things before removing the regulator? Or can I just remove the three bolts and replace?
Do I have to remove other things before removing the regulator? Or can I just remove the three bolts and replace?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
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From: Concord, NC
The regulator could be stuck closed, or there could be a blockage in the return fuel line to the tanks. The regulator would be the easiest thing to try first though. I've never had to replace mine, but it should just be those three bolts to get it off. Be sure to bleed off the fuel pressure before you take them out, otherwise you'll get squirted with fuel.
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Postmaster
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Sounds good....Ahhh I can taste the victory over this mileage problem..!
Hopefully, this will get rid of KOER 42 and 13. I'll focus on EGR/EVP after resovling this fuel issue.
Hopefully, this will get rid of KOER 42 and 13. I'll focus on EGR/EVP after resovling this fuel issue.
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Postmaster
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Replaced regulator today. Talk about frustating...!
But what's done is done.
PSI at Idle is now ~35PSI and bleed-down is nice and slow....ahhhh. Also, my KOER 42(rich) is GONE!. Hopefully i get more than 8mpg.
But what's done is done.
PSI at Idle is now ~35PSI and bleed-down is nice and slow....ahhhh. Also, my KOER 42(rich) is GONE!. Hopefully i get more than 8mpg
.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Alabama
Keep us updated. Mine is still running like proverbial doo, but I am still working at solving this. Had to take time out to put a water pump on a Taurus over this past weekend. You want frustrating try that repair. Absolutely no clearance to get it on off or on. Rather work on my truck anyday.
guzzler96
guzzler96
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
33 Still comes on KOER.
I'm gonna leave the voltmeter on the EVP while doing a KOER. When computer tests EGR valve, EVP voltage should go up. I'm also gonna test my EVR to see if its supplying vacuum to EGR. Fordfuelinjection mentions grounding a Pin on EVR which then opens EGR. I guess if the EGR doesnt open, I have a vacuum leak somewhere or the EVR is bad.
I still need to get me a vac pump. Hopefully, i'll stop by the store tomorrow and get one.
I'm gonna leave the voltmeter on the EVP while doing a KOER. When computer tests EGR valve, EVP voltage should go up. I'm also gonna test my EVR to see if its supplying vacuum to EGR. Fordfuelinjection mentions grounding a Pin on EVR which then opens EGR. I guess if the EGR doesnt open, I have a vacuum leak somewhere or the EVR is bad.
I still need to get me a vac pump. Hopefully, i'll stop by the store tomorrow and get one.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Alabama
Yeah, I'm getting a 33 myself. I have checked the VPS and the EGR body is not very old at all. I am leaning towards no vacuum from the solenoid. The only problem might be finding a solenoid to replace it. I can't remember if the dealer carries it or not. I am pretty sure they have the TAB and TAD, special order, but I am not sure about the EVR solenoid. If you determine that is the problem and find a solenoid,post up the part number and where you got it, if you don't mind. I may need one myself.
guzzler96
guzzler96
Last edited by guzzler96; Feb 11, 2005 at 07:41 AM. Reason: sp
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Postmaster
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Grounded the EVR (left Pin) while engine running and the EGR valve did not open. I removed the Vac Line from the EGR and put my thumb over it while grounding EVR. Sure enough, it started suckin my finger.
Soooo, it turns out my EGR valve leaks. Trying to apply vaccum on it just kinda 'blows' through. I'll try to get a new one when I can.
So codes 34, 41, and 42 are no longer.
KOEO: 11
CM: 33
KOER: 33, 13.
I'm stumped on 13.
Soooo, it turns out my EGR valve leaks. Trying to apply vaccum on it just kinda 'blows' through. I'll try to get a new one when I can.
So codes 34, 41, and 42 are no longer.
KOEO: 11
CM: 33
KOER: 33, 13.
I'm stumped on 13.
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Postmaster
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Little (late) update:
Replaced EGR valve and 33 and 34 are gone. No more CEL come on while driving.
The only codes I have are:
KOER: 13, 25.
I read a post by fefarms regarding 13 and IAC valve. I'm gonna test it.
For Code 25, where can I find the Knock sensor, and what does it mean?
Replaced EGR valve and 33 and 34 are gone. No more CEL come on while driving.
The only codes I have are:
KOER: 13, 25.
I read a post by fefarms regarding 13 and IAC valve. I'm gonna test it.
For Code 25, where can I find the Knock sensor, and what does it mean?
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