Do altenators suddenly start squeaking when they get old? Or perhaps that air pump unit that sits above the altenator? I've got a loud new squeak.

Both of these have fanbelts that I sprayed dressing on (hoping this sqeaking was just a new loose fanbelt noise). But the squeaking continues.

It's more like a "chirp, chirp, chirp" when I am accelerating - very annoying. It's embassing at traffic lights - when I'm still in gear it does it too. I can have someone else powerbrake while I hear ir coming from alternator/airpump area.

Also - I heard that I can disconnect the airpump because it's an uneccessary part, something that does an ineffective job at emissions control. Any truth to this? Will I still pass an emissions test if I disconnect?

 

It sounds as if a bearing is dry and on it's way to failing either in the alternator, the power sterring pump, the air pump(s) or possibly the water pump. Disconnect the air pump and see if the squeek stops. If not try the alternator. A short drive sans alternator will be okay. Then the power steering pump.
As far as permanently disconnecting the air pump I would imagine that it would depend on how strict the law is in your local area on this.
Personally I always toss the air pump(s) and plug the air access ports in the heads. I do the same for the EGR and any other pollution equipment. As far as pollution goes, I've been through the smog tests at the coast in Vancouver and my vehicles always score super low on their smog scale. All you have to do is know how to tune properly and keep the engine in shape. Plus a few small tricks that help one to pass. The smog tests here don't seem to care too much about equipment if your ride can pass the smog test itself.

Cheers


--Heaven will be inherited by every man who has Ford in his soul--

 

Thanks, man. The irritating squeak suddnely ended on it's own today. I know it was the airpump. I'm gonna disconnect it as you have said as soon as I go through emissions this month. Do you think you get a perfomance boost by doing that?

 

What you will achieve is less parasitic drag on the engine and removing some unsprung weight, both are always good. It's unlikely that you will notice anything in the way of performance gain though.
Ther are all sorts of tip 'n' tricks to making an engine run better and some hardly seem worth the trouble, but add them altogether and they can make a difference. Of course there are plenty of things one can do that really should be race prep only 'cos it just isn't economically viable for a street driven machine. Gone for most of us are the days of super high HP engines for the street 'cos between parts prices, fuel prices and the law it just isn't worth it. Building a street engine for torque in MHO was always the way to go anyway.
One final thought is: If the equipment that you remove is in working order, keep it with all it's attendant pieces. You never know if you will need to re-install it for some reason, like you're forced to by law or if you sell and the buyer won't take it without. Just a little insurance.

Cheers

--Heaven will be inherited by every man who has Ford in his soul--

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Aug-02 AT 08:04 PM (EST)]Now the sound is back - but it's an exhaust leak sound - "tick tick tick..." The squeak is a loud ticking now.

I swear there's a new exhaust leak coming from the airpump area. Is this possible? If an airpump goes bad can exhaust leak through it somehow?

 

Chirping usually is a ujoint going away ,the worse it gets the louder it is.

 

No, this "chirp" turned into a "tick-tick" now and happens when I accelerate. My buddy who knows more than me is gonna look.

 

is your truck running poorly since the tick-tick started? my truck was surging, and it turns out that the emmisions valveage below/behind the airpump was sucking in air and messing everything up. it wouldn't be a surprise if your egr plumbing had a hole in it..

 

I got a rude awakening yesterday when I took it to an exhaust shop. I had hoped it was at worst a hole in the manifold.

The problem is a blown head gasket. Oil was coming out of the hole. So after some thought, I've decided to replace the 135,000 mile engine with a new one instead of opening up the engine and finding out whats wrong besides a gasket, etc.

It costs $2200 (after taxes installed) and I'll have a 7 year/70K mile warranty. I'm sorta happy about the idea of a new rebuilt motor. I knew mine was getting old. It will be finished on Tuesday. So I'm over the intial shock/trauma. :-)

I don't exactly know what thingsf to pay attention to when I get it back. I'm sure there will be fine tuning.

 

Boy, that $ure turned out to be an expen$ive $queak. I hope you will be happy with the new powerplant. JK34

 

haha. no *****. I'll be getting the truck back today. They're just finishing the wiring and hoses, etc.