ignition wiring problems the culprit?
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Tucson, AZ
ignition wiring problems the culprit?
i replaced all of my fuel line, cleaned the fuel tank, checked for air leaks etc. EVERYWHERE, replaced fuel pump, coil changed and adjusted points, condensor cap rotor wires and plugs. i can still drive for about 10 minutes and the the truck gradually starts to crap out. i know for a fact it is not a fuel problem. the ignition wires dont looke to be in too good of condition. if the wires gegt warmed up, could they stop carrying the electricity if they are partially broken etc...?
adam
adam
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,813
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From: Connecticut
You may have a bad coil that get hot after a short while and starts to crap out.I would carry a spare coil and next time it happens , swap it out and see how it runs. When it dies, does it start right up or do you have to wait a period of time before it starts?Is the bowl on the fuel filter clean, no debris collecting there? Is the gas going thru it clean, not cloudy?
Barry
50 F-1
Barry
50 F-1
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Tucson, AZ
i repeat,it is not a fuel problem.... the bowl is clean as can be, fuel is always going thru the carb no problem... the coil has been replaced, getting plenty spark. when it dies if i fire it right back up it runs the same crappy way, but if it sits for 10 mins or so its good for another 5...
adam
adam
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Is this a 12v vehicle? Do you have the proper ballast resistor in the coil circuit? Sounds suspiciously like a coil overheating, as Barry noted.
I think if the gas were bad, it wouldn't start, that is where it usually shows up.
I think if the gas were bad, it wouldn't start, that is where it usually shows up.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,783
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From: Kalispell, MT
If it's the 59 F100 in his profile it would be 12V. What ignition wires are you talking about? The under dash wiring to the switch or the wiring under the hood to/from coil and to distributor? Any of these can break down and leak voltage, but the most likely to cause your symptoms are the ones Barry and Ross have described.
If you replaced the condenser I'd try another one. They can be bad out of the box. They will cause symptoms like you have. Get one at NAPA - the one they sell seem to be the most reliable. Most of the NOS stuff is junk and some of the other outlets are peddling new junk.
If you replaced the condenser I'd try another one. They can be bad out of the box. They will cause symptoms like you have. Get one at NAPA - the one they sell seem to be the most reliable. Most of the NOS stuff is junk and some of the other outlets are peddling new junk.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Just one final thought on fuel system -- could the fuel cap be a non-vented type?
Did Ford use resistance wires to the coil on '59's? This is normal-looking wire but it actually serves the same purpose as a ballast resistor. Did these problems start when you put on the MSD coil?
Did Ford use resistance wires to the coil on '59's? This is normal-looking wire but it actually serves the same purpose as a ballast resistor. Did these problems start when you put on the MSD coil?
Last edited by ALBUQ F-1; Jan 21, 2005 at 01:22 PM.
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From: Tucson, AZ
the problems happened before i changed all the stuff, thats why i changed it. the cap is definately vented. i was referring to the wires to/from the coil looking bad. i have no doubt that the coil is good, its sending plenty of spark out.... this is really bugging me. i had parked it for a while because i was getting so frustrated and its doing the same thing no matter what i change... lookin like its getting parked again
adam
adam
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
You said it wasn't a fuel problem, but it sounds a lot like vaporlock. Are any fuel lines close to headers or other heat source? Does the carb inlet have a sintered filter in it?
Ignition usually works or it doesn't.
Next time it quits, I'd pull off the float bowl cover and see if the bowl is full or not at that moment.
Ignition usually works or it doesn't.
Next time it quits, I'd pull off the float bowl cover and see if the bowl is full or not at that moment.
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From: Tucson, AZ
fue lines travel on the opposite side as the intake and exhaust do (223 inline 6) ive pulled the bowl off right after it did it and the bowl was full, all filters free of debris.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Midland, Texas
My "vapor lock" problems, as I diagnosed them one hot summer day in the desert, was debunked by Doc Jacobs at my daughter's house. He showed me how my ballast resistor was over heated and failed to run the proper 'electrics' through the system to produce enough spark. He got the thing cranked right up, gave me a copy of his book and off I went.
Even now, my ballast resistor will smoke... it evidently resists the change to a new manifold with multiple carbs. With my Jacobs system installed, however, I have no more starting problems. Good luck with it. himmelberg
Even now, my ballast resistor will smoke... it evidently resists the change to a new manifold with multiple carbs. With my Jacobs system installed, however, I have no more starting problems. Good luck with it. himmelberg
Posting Guru
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From: Shasta Lake, Ca.
Originally Posted by ahawes
fue lines travel on the opposite side as the intake and exhaust do (223 inline 6) ive pulled the bowl off right after it did it and the bowl was full, all filters free of debris.
Last edited by Madathlon; Jan 21, 2005 at 06:19 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Could be a stupid suggestion, but here goes... What type of air cleaner and whats the weather like? I have had carb iceing problems that act a bit like this from time to time.
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From: Seattle WA.
Originally Posted by ahawes
i replaced all of my fuel line, cleaned the fuel tank, checked for air leaks etc. EVERYWHERE, replaced fuel pump, coil changed and adjusted points, condensor cap rotor wires and plugs. i can still drive for about 10 minutes and the the truck gradually starts to crap out. i know for a fact it is not a fuel problem. the ignition wires dont looke to be in too good of condition. if the wires gegt warmed up, could they stop carrying the electricity if they are partially broken etc...?
adam
adam