I've got a little 16" McCulloch electric saw that was brought into the family when I married.

Anyhow, the chain is pretty dull, so I figured I'd sharpen it..when I did research, I found out I'd need to know all about some various angles on the cutting edges...dont know that, so now it's time for a new chain...MORE choices!

There are several 16" chain types around, each having to do with what I believe is the number of links..which should somehow deal with the type of sprocket on the bar and the type of drive sprocket, I'm buessing.

How the heck do I figure out which new chain I need? I went and talked to the Home Depot guy and he said to bring in the saw..but I'm not quite sure he'll know what he needs to know..

Do I need to count the number of cutting edges in an inch or something like that to figure out what type of chain to replace the old one with?

 

Take the chain and saw with you.Remove the chain before going so you can compare it tho hte new one. They need to know the pitch of the drive teeth. That is the teeth that engage the sprocket. Most chains packages list what saws they fit.

 

I just look on the back of the package the chains are sold in. There's a list of the saws it will fit.. One type of blade will fit a lot of different brands of saws...

 

You might try going to an actual saw shop that specializes in the stuff. They'll know immediately what you need. On the other hand, I don't buy oil and auto products at the grocery store either................

 

Do you have a model # on that McCulloch saw?

You can go to Oregon Chain and lookup the model # there and find out what chain is needed. The key items are the # of drive links, pitch, and gauge. To ensure the right length, count the number of drive links (the bottom part of the chain) and make sure the # matches what you purchase. Probably be 54 or 55 links for a 16 inch chain on a McCulloch.

http://www.oregonchain.com/selguide.htm

Choose the Consumer section and go from there. Good luck and happy hunting.

 

Ha, that's a great site Rangerxlt02, but for some reason doesnt have mine (ms1640) listed. Oh well, it's a good book mark. And thanks for letting me know what the drive links are...that's what I was trying to count.

...I'm not quite sure what automotive products you'd get at a grocery store...dont you get food there?? Where are you from?

As for taking the model number in, I didnt see the model number on the chains they had, so it must be better going to a saw shop.

 

I found that model:

McCulloch Silver Eagle MS 1640 16"

Part #:
S55 XTRAGUARD® (91VG) 55 3/8" .050"

That would work out to a part # of 91VG55. Northertool.com would be:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...58775&R=358775

HTH

 

That would be a 3/8 low profile chain with 55 links, and size 50 gauge drivers. Any decent palce that sells chain or saws can make up that chain. Since it is a common size and lenght, you should be able to find it pre-made fairly easy.

If you have a choice, go with the rounded edge tooth instead of the flat top "chisle tooth". The reason I say this is, the round tooth will take more abuse before dulling, and will resharpen without taking as much metal away. It is a good home owner chain.

If your old chain is not rusted stiff, or beat to death on rocks and dirt, take it to be sharpened on a machine. The cost should be around $4.00. You will get the angle and depth of cut at the right settings this way.

When hand sharpening, it is very important to make sure that you have removed all of the damaged area of each tooth, and that the teeth on both sides are cut back the same amount. If you have to, remove enough good metal on the less damaged side to match the amount needed to clean up the other. If not, your saw will cut to one side and try to bind in the log.

The angle of sharpening, in most cases, will be 30 to 35 deg., according to type of chain.

With saw chain, like everything else, you get what you pay for. A cheap chain is softer, and will dull quicker than a Stihl brand chain. Oregon makes several different qualities, so it is hard to know what you are getting. You can be sure that if it is in Wal Mart, it is the cheaper quality. A saw shop will generally carry the good Oregon chain. Be sure to ask, if you need a good chain, that is. A cheap chain will constantly stretch, keeping you busy tightening the bar.

I use Stihl brand chain. I have cut quite a bit of trees and brush around the house for several years now, without needing to sharpen the chain. I am careful, and use a plastic bar sleeve, along with the case, when storing the saw.

Always use chain oil, not anything else. It is slicker, and is very tacky, and will not to sling off the chain at high speed. Keep the oiler holes clean in the bar. I like to use a broken hacksaw blade to clean out the groove the chain runs in.

I know I answered more than you asked, but I ran a saw and small engine shop for several years, and I just get carried away.

 

Ditch the electric job and get a Husky, Jonsered, or Stihl. Boy, did I just open a can of worms...

 

I was just making a point that yardbird covered very well. I'm in Montana - where a lot of Californians want to be - and that might explain the auto products at the supermarket - oil, wax, duct tape, etc. The General Store concept is alive and kicking up here.

On the other hand you can find them at supermarkets across the northern tier of states. Spend time wandering the aisles - you might be surprised at what they carry.

Happy sawing!

 

Just sharpen the old chain. Get an attachment for a dremell tool (and a dremell tool if you don't already have one). Then all you have to do is line up the sharpening stone to the angle already on the tooth. Polish it till it's shiny and you're done. If you want you can also grind down the rakers slightly so the tooth can bite better.

It's really easy and with practice you can probably do the job in less than 5 minutes yourself.

 

I was going to suggest the same thing. A nice gas saw is so much nicer to run.

Stephen

 

Yah, a gas Husqvarna would be nice, and the place I wound up taking the saw to had a great sale going. However, with the electric working and not much money, and only using the saw a few times a year, it was easier to part with the $8 than the 185 for an 18" Husq.

Plus, no mixing of oils, draining of tanks AND the HP rating of the Husq in the price range that seemed acceptable was less than the electric.

Anyhow..thanks for the suggestion on the saw shop..I guess it was the stupidity kicking in, but it didnt even dawn on me. Fixed me right up..sharpened the old chain, and gave me 2 new ones at a good price. SO, I can practice sharpening on a dull one and (likely) destroy it and still have a good one!

 

I know what that like. I'm getting better at sharpening them, but the first few times they cut worse after I sharpend them then before.

Stephen