Starter Cranks > engine wont start
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Originally Posted by Mattsbox99
its probably a connecting ground strap for the hood to the firewall...
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
Can you take a pic to show us?
Guessing isn't good
Guessing isn't good
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
Is that a braided cable ? ( you stated *a Wire* )
If so, it grounds the engine (direct ground) to the cab for engine electrical needs.
Motor mounts are usually rubber insulated.
If so, it grounds the engine (direct ground) to the cab for engine electrical needs.
Motor mounts are usually rubber insulated.
Could this be giving me starting problems???
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From: Louisville,Ky.
You need to check for spark. Take a sparkplug (extra one if possible) and remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and attatch it to the plug. Lay the plug on the engine so that it is grounded. Crank the engine and check for spark. If no spark, have the ignition module tested at a local parts place. Also, check the red wire going to the coil. You should have at least 9V going to it.
Also, that extra wire should be hooked up. It provides the cab with the proper ground so that your cab lights and gauges work properly. The wire is usually grounded to one of the rear intake manifold bolts.
Has the trruck ever run since you have known it? If you have spark and fuel, you may have a jumped timing chain.
Also, that extra wire should be hooked up. It provides the cab with the proper ground so that your cab lights and gauges work properly. The wire is usually grounded to one of the rear intake manifold bolts.
Has the trruck ever run since you have known it? If you have spark and fuel, you may have a jumped timing chain.
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Originally Posted by LxMan1
You need to check for spark. Take a sparkplug (extra one if possible) and remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and attatch it to the plug. Lay the plug on the engine so that it is grounded. Crank the engine and check for spark. If no spark, have the ignition module tested at a local parts place. Also, check the red wire going to the coil. You should have at least 9V going to it.
Also, that extra wire should be hooked up. It provides the cab with the proper ground so that your cab lights and gauges work properly. The wire is usually grounded to one of the rear intake manifold bolts.
Has the trruck ever run since you have known it? If you have spark and fuel, you may have a jumped timing chain.
Also, that extra wire should be hooked up. It provides the cab with the proper ground so that your cab lights and gauges work properly. The wire is usually grounded to one of the rear intake manifold bolts.
Has the trruck ever run since you have known it? If you have spark and fuel, you may have a jumped timing chain.
One other thing I noticed is that when I put the new battery now my interior light wont turn of when I close the door it just stays on .
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Originally Posted by Mattsbox99
Are you reading my posts?
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From: Louisville,Ky.
Did you check the dimmer switch for the dome light? It could have just got turned on by accident. It could just be a coincidence, but the last time that you turned it off, it could have jumped time. That's when they usually jump, when you turn it off.
I am assuming that the module checks good and you have 9V or so to the positive side of the coil?
I am assuming that the module checks good and you have 9V or so to the positive side of the coil?
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Quote:
One other thing I noticed is that when I put the new battery now my interior light wont turn of when I close the door it just stays on .
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Sounds like more melted wires (Bare) exposed to a power source.
Maybe completely unwrap the main power harness right to where it goes through the firewall to have a really good look?
.
One other thing I noticed is that when I put the new battery now my interior light wont turn of when I close the door it just stays on .
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sounds like more melted wires (Bare) exposed to a power source.
Maybe completely unwrap the main power harness right to where it goes through the firewall to have a really good look?
.
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ok thanks
Also I pulled out the multimeter this morning and tested the fuse block all of them read 0 until I got to the aux fuel fuse it read like 0.12 (this is with the truck off) is this normal??
Also I pulled out the multimeter this morning and tested the fuse block all of them read 0 until I got to the aux fuel fuse it read like 0.12 (this is with the truck off) is this normal??
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well I pulled the ignition module gonna have it tested in the morning I noticed a while ago there was this sticky stuff on my inside fender turns out this stuff is oozing from my module whats up with that ?
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Heat melting the wax ?
Is the module raised a little from the fender or flush with it?
It should be raised a 1/4"
There is a grommet on there where the wires run,You didn't state a color of ooze, but is it the same colour as the grommet ?
Replace that fuse & test it the same way.
Is the module raised a little from the fender or flush with it?
It should be raised a 1/4"
There is a grommet on there where the wires run,You didn't state a color of ooze, but is it the same colour as the grommet ?
Replace that fuse & test it the same way.