I have a 66 F100 CC Shortbed styleside with AIM dropped I beams and 78 disc brake spindle. I need to install new bushings on one side and have the kit. I could use some instuction on how to remove the old bushings, and install the nylon bushings and kingpin. The kingpins and bushing were done about 6 months ago when I put the dropped I beams in. I had a machine shop do the metal bushings then so I am hoping that taking them apart won't be to difficult. Thanks.

Mark

 

Hi Mark,
Forgive me for asking this, but I have to, If your kingpin bushings are only 6 months old and metal why do you want to replace them with a polymer? (aka plastic-nylon)

My 66 sits on a 79 Chassis 26 years old with 200K+ miles on a set of original 79 OEM steel/copper kingpin bushings which are still well within low side of acceptable FoMoCo tolerance spec's. I recently scrapped another F100 34 years old w/ unknown miles on it and itwas good also, although it was drum brakes,(I scrapped a chassis, not a whole truck).

Now onward to your question;

The only ways I ever get bushings out of axles is cutting them & collapsing them, or else remove axle(s) & take them to the press & press them out. Cutting them req' a clean, sharp, cold chisel & steady hand to not score up the bushing bores. When I do it this way I chisel it like a sculptor precision cutting stone, like tap tap tap instead of slam, Wham, BANG. I've also tried using an air chisel. It took my making a "tip" on a grinder, so it worked right. But it still left some marks in bore I had to clean up with a dremel & emery. I don't favor "cleaning" bushing bores because I like to believe they come sort of round from the factory. My messing with them might change that.

I have more questions for you though, How do you like those AIM Drops? How well do they handle & stop when you're driving hard? How much did you drop your front end. & Did whole truck end up slammed so it's level, or do you have a rake?
Last, did you use OEM, 60's type, forged, radius arms or later stamped ones and do you run a front anti sway bar with these drops? or is there anything about adding a front anti-swaybar in the instructions AIM sent you?

Thanks Mark,
FBp

 

FBp thanks for the tips.

I am not sure of the problem yet and I am working from the best-case scenario meaning that I hope the slop in the kingpin is not in the AIM beam itself. I still need to dissassemble the spindle. The bottom of the spindle moves at least as far as the thickness of the copper bushing and the other side is fine. I need to remove the cap and zerk to see what is moving, the pin or the spindle. I hope to replace the bushings on the affected side and get my truck back on the road quickly. It is my daily driver.

The AIM beams gave me the raked stance I was looking for along with their shackle kit. It sits right. The truck has front and rear aftermarket (Quickor) sway bars and mounting the front was not a problem. I did the power steering upgrade as well and gas shocks. The handling is great. The turning radius sucks as the I beams hefty size now interferes with the spindle on tight turns. The wheels are aftermarket (Stockton) 15x7 steel with caps and rings with Michelin CrossTerrain radials (235 fronts/265 rears). Have a hard time making u turns at intersections. The radius arms are the original stamped units. The lack of coherent instructions from AIM was a problem. They don't address sway bars as I remember. In all it is a big job but straight forward front end work. I have front end experience so wasn't intimidated but it could be a chore for someone without some training.

Mark

 

Hey Mark,

I am running the AIM I beams in my 66 and was wondering about your king pin problem. Is this something that has happened with other AIM drop I beam users? Or is yours an isolated incident?
We did mine with new king pins (not AIM) at the time of installation & havent had a problem yet. (2000 miles later)

As for the turning radius.....I shaved off aproximately 45 degrees where there was interference. We did this with a carbide burr ( only about .750 was removed) this was suggested by the owner of AIM industries.....
I seriously doubt that has any effect on the strength of the I beams,as they are completely solid steel at that point.
Thom

 

Thom,

I don't know of many folks who have used these dropped I beams and so I can't say if there are problems with the I beams themselves. I suspect it is the spindle some how. I have about 4000 miles on mine. I was considering trimming some metal from the beams but still worried about safety problems and warranty. I will take another look when I tear it apart. Thanks.

 

We figured it was to dangerous to drive the truck with the ridiculous turning radius.

I Couldnt turn onto a 1 way street without fading all the way into the left lane.!

I forget exactly where it was, but there were suggestions for trimming the I beams in my instructions.
Cutting small angles only where interferance is.
I will take some pictures when the truck gets out of the body shop & I get some time.
Thom

 

Too much going on this week to get into the kingpins. But does anyone have the tolerance specifications for Kingpins? Maybe it is time to put a dial indicator on it and see what is what. Thanks for the help here.

Mark