When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I went the the junkyard and picked up a 3.8L taurus 2 speed fan for 20$ and A VERY nice fan controller kit from dccontrol.com for 109$ and its a great setup. The fan fit quite well but I had to center it more twards the driver side to allow the fan motor to clear the fan clutch stud that sticks out from the water pump after removing the clutch fan. The fan controller was a bit spendy BUT the taurus fan sucks too much juice for a normal 30amp kit and this one automatically adjusts the fan speed according to the engine temp. I see no need to upgrade the alternator either since this controller runs the fan at a very low speed/amp draw to keep the engine cool unless it gets toasty (where the controller automatically bumps up the fan speed. I'll try to get a picture up of the setup later, I think this would also fit a thick core setup also (mine is a single core radiator) as there is till about 2" of clearance between the fan the belt drive.
the best setup is for the fin or one that sets inside the radiator, you dont want it reading coolant temp in the block because there is no reason for the fans to come on if the radiator doesnt have fluid circulating through it. if you have it in the block or water pump it will come on to soon.
this is true however my thermostat houseing has an outlet after the thermostat so i believe if i could take advantage of that it would be a better more reliable setup. the previous fin style that i ran often had troubles w/ incorrect temp readings. causeing the fan to come on either early or late. this equals blown engine.and a empty wallet.
you can buy a adustable t-stat for the fins style. i know what you mean by late temp, mine kicks in at about 220 or 230 block temp...and when i get the cash i will go adjustable.
Have you ever had the hosuing off, you have th spot where the ECT sensor should be or is. that goes right to the block, there is a hole in the head, then a small hole also in the t-stat housing , so it isn't regulated by the t-stat
i was also thinking about the fan running while no coolant was circulating well even if you had a block probe that read the block temp u wouldn't set the rely temp lower than your thermostatfor the coolant to run... so it should still work even in the block w/ that mind set????
i was also thinking about the fan running while no coolant was circulating well even if you had a block probe that read the block temp u wouldn't set the rely temp lower than your thermostatfor the coolant to run... so it should still work even in the block w/ that mind set????
that would work if you got an adjustable one, you would jus thave to make sure it went up to like 200 or 210 or so...and set it when to shut off....i think mine shuts off around 170