Choke release
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Zanesville,Ohio
Choke release
I have a 1981 F150 302,2150carb.
The past few mornings have been down around 7 degrees farenheit,it takes the choke about 10-15 min to release (idle down).
I should mention it is an electric choke with hot air assist.
I have found if I unhook the electrical connection to the choke housing,the choke will never release,even in mild weather.
Back to my question,on the above mentioned mornings,if I simply start the truck then drive away not allowing it to warm up thr choke is still on when I get to work about 20min down the interstate,but it I run it for about 5min after I get to work it will release.
Is there anything that can be done to have the choke release sooner,and why won't the choke release when the electrical connection to the choke housing is unhooked even though it has hot air assist?
Why does it take so much longer for the choke to release when the truck is just driven away as opposed to letting it warm up.
Sorry about all the questions.
Jeff
The past few mornings have been down around 7 degrees farenheit,it takes the choke about 10-15 min to release (idle down).
I should mention it is an electric choke with hot air assist.
I have found if I unhook the electrical connection to the choke housing,the choke will never release,even in mild weather.
Back to my question,on the above mentioned mornings,if I simply start the truck then drive away not allowing it to warm up thr choke is still on when I get to work about 20min down the interstate,but it I run it for about 5min after I get to work it will release.
Is there anything that can be done to have the choke release sooner,and why won't the choke release when the electrical connection to the choke housing is unhooked even though it has hot air assist?
Why does it take so much longer for the choke to release when the truck is just driven away as opposed to letting it warm up.
Sorry about all the questions.
Jeff
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 480
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From: Elyria, Ohio
I've noticed same issue on a 1981 F250 351M 2150 carb. I left off stator connection and air pipe could not compensate. If it appears to set fast idle and only problem is length of time to release; then adjust cover leaner. Loosen three screws on choke cover. Rotate cover to right (clockwise) to lean the setting. Move it about 10 minutes on the clock and secure screws. see if it helps. May need several adjustments b4 you get it to right place.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Zanesville,Ohio
Thanks for replying,
I looked at the choke cover and it is riveted in place,looks like I will have to drill out the rivets.
The choke cover is set about the middle of all the marks.
It seems like it takes a lot longer for the choke to release in cold weather if I drive the truck from a cold start without allowing it to warm up first.
In the summer time it releases fine,sometimes almost seems too soon as the engine will stall at times.
Jeff
I looked at the choke cover and it is riveted in place,looks like I will have to drill out the rivets.
The choke cover is set about the middle of all the marks.
It seems like it takes a lot longer for the choke to release in cold weather if I drive the truck from a cold start without allowing it to warm up first.
In the summer time it releases fine,sometimes almost seems too soon as the engine will stall at times.
Jeff
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Zanesville,Ohio
Originally Posted by Windsor84
My electric choke does not have the wire hooked up to it and i was just wondering where the wire that connects to the choke comes from or is it just a battery power wire? Thanks
Hope this helps
Jeff
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
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I have a 81 302 with a holly carb. When I got the truck it only had 1 wire going to the carb, and that was from the alternator. The choke did not realy work properly until I put a ground wire on the other prong of the choke. It still does not seem to run right, but it does run better. Before I put the ground wire on, the choke would take forever to open, and when it did open, nomatter how long it ran it would not open enough.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Zanesville,Ohio
Thanks,I might try grounding it,it just seems to take an awful long time to release,especially if I start it in the morning temp about 5deg f. and then immediately drive to work,about 15 mi down the interstate,when I get there it is still on fast idle and the choke is about 1/2 open,but if I let it run for about 5min after I get there,it will kick down.
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Postmaster
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I suspect you have the original carb since you have rivets on it.
Yeah, drill out the rivets, not too big, then insert screws.
Rotating that housing adjusts the choke plate, thereby changing it lean/rich.
The time duration is based on the spring thingy inside the housing. I suspect its shot.
Yeah, drill out the rivets, not too big, then insert screws.
Rotating that housing adjusts the choke plate, thereby changing it lean/rich.
The time duration is based on the spring thingy inside the housing. I suspect its shot.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Elyria, Ohio
Your original carb choke will have its power from the alternator stator output. This is about 7.5 volts. Ground for choke was achieved through metal side plates on plastic choke housing through the carb without any special grounding wire. My stock 351M 2150 like this.
My F100 302 has Performer manifold and 4V Holley carb and uses power from an accessory 12V source. I used the original stator 7.5V to trigger a relay for the 12V power in run to the choke. The Holley housing has a separate connection for a ground wire to run to the carb base.
You could also tap into the wire to the idle solenoid for choke power to get a full 12V in run. But stick with stator 7.5V if its a stock 2150 and choke.
My F100 302 has Performer manifold and 4V Holley carb and uses power from an accessory 12V source. I used the original stator 7.5V to trigger a relay for the 12V power in run to the choke. The Holley housing has a separate connection for a ground wire to run to the carb base.
You could also tap into the wire to the idle solenoid for choke power to get a full 12V in run. But stick with stator 7.5V if its a stock 2150 and choke.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Zanesville,Ohio
Yes,it is the stock carb and choke housing,it just started this problem recently,we bought the truck brand new in 1981,the only carb work that has been done is a new power valve and accelerator pump.
Jeff
Jeff
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Delhi, Ontario
I have a 84, 302 with a 2150 electric choke. I ran into a similar problem, where the choke would only open about half way. I checked the voltage off the stator, and I was only getting about 2 or 3 volts. Alternator was working, but probably not much longer. Put another alternator on, and no problems. I would check what voltage you are getting. Like rainbowATF said, it should be around 7.5.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 140
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From: Troy, MI
my 85 f250 351w does the same thing, 4brl holley carb, new motor, choke stays on like the whole time to work unless i let it run for a few minutes and then blip the gas and it shuts off, but not until i blip the gas. im gonna have to look at the source and ground wires now to make sure they are good.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Fleming Ga
Electric chokes use the stator wire on the alternator because you need power to the choke only when the engine is running and power is only applied on the stator wire once the alternator is turning and putting out power.
New User
Joined: Feb 2005
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most of the choke problems i,ve had over the years seem to come down to the heater tube . If it doesn,t burn your hand after a few minutes running time it,s not working properly. clean the intake part of the tube at the manifold and make sure the intake at the top of the carb is open and make sure the tube is not broken anywhere along it,s length .