header leaks
also doe's anyone have proper torque specks for headers ? thank's .
Last edited by my48willies; Jan 16, 2005 at 11:25 PM.
The big thing is torquing in sequence. I usually get them all started, then starting in center work my way around in a circle(just like doing a cyl. head). That way you work any wrinkles out and it pulls down nice and tight/straight.
How tight?? I usually pull it tight with a box wrench and call it a day. No way to really use a torque wrench and with a small box wrench you will never over do it, or break a header bolt. Just a firm pull and recheck after you run motor up to temp.
My brother owns his own shop and gave me a great trick to installing header gaskets.
Soak the gaskets in water for 20 minutes prior to installation. Than just torque like Frieghtrain recomended and you should be in good shape. I used this method on mine and they sealed up nicely.
Good luck
jd
In the first place most headers come with what the manufacturers call "bite areas" around the ports on the flange that don't match very well with the gaskets. Also as you re-torque they tend to bend the flange and open the seal.
These "bite areas are only the result of the manufacturng process and are created when they put those pipes in the flange. They weld them on the head side and shave them off.
What I did was weld a bead around the outside of each primary pipe to flange joint, take the headers to the machine shop, and have the bite areas shaved off so that the flange was flat and smooth. This gives you a large manifold like sealing area. You can use a manifold gasket. I used one of those metal sandwhich types.
Means lower torque, which is good especially with aluminum heads.
This was only one issue I had with the headers and how I solved it. I know there are different ways to do things and hope this helps someone.



