hub and lock out question
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hub and lock out question
If I dented the outside of my hub and the and the locking part the inside won't slide in and out will that cause a problem? The reason I ask is that now I get a shake in the front end I mean go change your undies type of shake. Like you just had a tire blow out. Of course I slam on the brakes but doesn't help you get slowed way down or stop and it stops. It will almost yank the steering whell out of my hand. Please help.
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Done some searching and now I know what death wobble feels like. Donr some looking at the truck and my lower ball joint is bad so thats my problem. Anyone got tips or instructions for replacing ball joints.
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Originally Posted by chris_ce
Done some searching and now I know what death wobble feels like. Donr some looking at the truck and my lower ball joint is bad so thats my problem. Anyone got tips or instructions for replacing ball joints.
you need a 1-5/16" wrench to take off the top castle nut, and an 1-1/8" socket for the lower.
replace BOTH ball joints... use some quality MOOGs or something if its a DD.
you need an open end wrench to take the top one off on the F150. A socket works on an F250.
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you need a 1-5/16" wrench to take off the top castle nut, and an 1-1/8" socket for the lower.
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From: GANS
Originally Posted by chris_ce
Both of mine are 1-1/8. Got everything apart last night now I just need to go rent a ball joint press and I will soon be on my way.
you can use a pipe and a big hammer to knock them out if you have a vice; however, a balljoint press is easier.
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From: Indiana
Just done a lift kit this summer so most of the bushings are new. The wheel bearings on the side I beleive it to be are good. I just replaced all the front wheel bearings in feb of 04 when I bought it.
Anyone think my flang being bent and the lock out not sliding in without some force might be the problem. The reason I ask that is because it slides all the way in and then has the big retaining ring so it's not supposed to move. Is it?
I will tigten every nut and bolt just to make sure tomorrow. But I'm running out of ideas. And the wife is hounding me becuase she is the one that drives it the most.
Anyone think my flang being bent and the lock out not sliding in without some force might be the problem. The reason I ask that is because it slides all the way in and then has the big retaining ring so it's not supposed to move. Is it?
I will tigten every nut and bolt just to make sure tomorrow. But I'm running out of ideas. And the wife is hounding me becuase she is the one that drives it the most.
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Did you do the beaering on the inside? My dad told me (and showed me some pictures) that many people often over look this bearning as this is what happens. But if not i think you might be right, i would pull the hub apart and make sure there isn't any damage in there.
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No damage to the hub other than I have to tap it in with a mallet.
Me and the wife just went down to check the steering components and they look pretty good. Went to check the other side ball joints and they seem to be worse than the side I just changed. So after changing them tomorrow I will let you guys know if that fixes it.
The bearing inside the only other one I can think of is the one behind the spindle. I checked and repacked it but I had one on stand by becuase that is what I thought it was. Oh well maybe the other side needs it.
Me and the wife just went down to check the steering components and they look pretty good. Went to check the other side ball joints and they seem to be worse than the side I just changed. So after changing them tomorrow I will let you guys know if that fixes it.
The bearing inside the only other one I can think of is the one behind the spindle. I checked and repacked it but I had one on stand by becuase that is what I thought it was. Oh well maybe the other side needs it.
Last edited by chris_ce; Jan 15, 2005 at 09:46 PM.
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Well I'm done. Took it for a drive and didn't notice it this time but it wasn't doing it all the time so I think I might have it fixed. All it cost me was $100 for the ball joints, $10 for a can of mapp gas, 2 breaker bars, and one ratchet. At least the breaker bar will git replaced for free.