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C-6 or AOD?

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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 10:36 PM
  #16  
Sgt_Pepper17's Avatar
Sgt_Pepper17
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How much is a reasonable price for a rebuild on an AOD? I don't know if I'll need a shift kit because I'm putting a 4.56 gear in it. I would replace the torque converter too. Keep in mind too that I'm using a 2 wheel drive version and runnin an engine under 250 horse power and around 300ft/lbs torque. Thanks.

Erik
 
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 11:09 PM
  #17  
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termyt00
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i would say anywhere from $600 to $1200 ... but that would all depend on whose doing the rebuild! make sure you get someone who knows FORDS, and the AOD! and very reputable...
the guy a baumann engineering say's: "If you will be doing any towing I wouldn't recommend the non-lockup converter. The non-lockup converter will increase the transmission fluid temperatures, and so will towing. The combination of the two may lead to overheating and transmission damage.

My recommendations for this transmission would be to install a hardened direct input shaft ($170.00), and A+ OD servo ($130.00) and our valve body kit (59.95). These three things can be done without disassembling the transmission, and will improve durability greatly. Ideally I would also like to see a 2" OD band upgrade with the Mechanical Diode intermediate one way clutch ($350.00), but this would require disassembly of the transmission".
 
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 11:44 PM
  #18  
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Well, my neighbor owns his own tranny shop and he's very reputable. He builds all the drag trannies and heavy towing trannies around here. I think I might be able to get a deal on it bc I just sold him a C4 when he was in a bind. He couldn't find parts for it. I'm not lookin to really abuse this thing too bad. I just want a daily driver that will perform well for the occational race. I may take it to the drag strip but IDK. Anyhow, I plan on running an RV trans cooler on it to keep the temps down. What model years had the lock up torque converters. I don't want an AODE. I won't have the electronics to hook it up.
Thanks.

Erik
 
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 06:31 AM
  #19  
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termyt00
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AODE came out in '93 which ended the AOD. The AODE is electronically locked. The AOD was perminantly locked in OD, 3rd was split 60/40. with a 4.56 gear you won't feel much lug in OD! Ford ran the AOD with 2.73 gears from the factory which i still believed contributed to most if the failures in the '80's. I'm running a 3.55 in my torino. which is the lowest gear# i will ever use. I still have the AOD behind my 351C in my '70 torino! It's taken the abuse in there for 10 yrs! it does'nt have all the updates that they put in the ones now because it was rebuilt in '89, it served duty in a '85 lincoln Town Car prior to my aquizition.
 

Last edited by termyt00; Feb 15, 2005 at 06:55 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 06:39 AM
  #20  
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All AOD's came with a lock-up converor from the factory. What Termyt said about the AOD is true. It's not enough to just be reputable. The builder HAS to know the AOD. I went through it with a good transmission shop, who were known for building C-4's & 6's, and TH 350's & 400's. After the third try, they finally got it close to right. This shop was supposed to be the best around. This WAS 10 years ago though, but the AOD has been out since around 1980. You may want to look into a little higher then stock rpm, stall converter too. I myself, PREFER the 1 peice input shaft and the non lock-up converter. For any drag use, when the converter locks up, it drags down the rpm's of the engine quite badly. I just use an oversized cooler. If you do tow, don't do it in overdrive.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:03 AM
  #21  
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termyt00
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Originally Posted by stevef100s
All AOD's came with a lock-up converor from the factory. What Termyt said about the AOD is true. It's not enough to just be reputable. The builder HAS to know the AOD. I went through it with a good transmission shop, who were known for building C-4's & 6's, and TH 350's & 400's. After the third try, they finally got it close to right. This shop was supposed to be the best around. This WAS 10 years ago though, but the AOD has been out since around 1980. You may want to look into a little higher then stock rpm, stall converter too. I myself, PREFER the 1 peice input shaft and the non lock-up converter. For any drag use, when the converter locks up, it drags down the rpm's of the engine quite badly. I just use an oversized cooler. If you do tow, don't do it in overdrive.
the original owner had the same problem with my AOD before i got it...i guess they got it right or close enough!!!
 

Last edited by termyt00; Feb 15, 2005 at 07:05 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 05:19 PM
  #22  
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Would towin in OD be a bad thing if you were running a 4.56 rear gear?

Erik
 
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 07:10 PM
  #23  
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From: Destin/Ft. Walton Beach,
Probably not Sarge, if you retain the lock up feature and have a good cooler and low gears. When I had the 3.70's in my 65 with 5.0 and AOD, I towed a boat that weighed mor then 7,000 lbs with trailer. I never took it out of overdrive, and that transmission is still going strong for the new owner. They say not to tow in overdrive with the newer F150 transmission either. I had a 93 Lightning with 4.10's that I towed the same boat with, and never took it out of overdrive, and then did the same with my 99 Lightning (until I wrecked it) . In my opinion (which may not be fact), as long as the transmission isn't shifting constantly in and out of overdrive, and you aren't straining your engine, I don't see a problem with towing in overdrive. Now I use my Bronco for towing my boat. Since it has 3.55 gears, I take it out of overdrive while towing at less then freeway speeds.
 

Last edited by stevef100s; Feb 15, 2005 at 07:13 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 12:47 AM
  #24  
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Sgt_Pepper17
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Well guys,

I did the math. If I run a 4.56, in third gear i'll be tached out around 90 miles an hour (5000 is considered redline for me, my cam is a low to midrange.) If I run a 4.30 gear, I will top out at around 100 in third. Also, with a 4.29 I will be runnin around 2700 in fourth. If I had a 4.56 I would be running around 3000 rpms. I think the 4.30 will be better. I read the post earlier about what to put in a rebuilt tranny to make it really strong. I'm not gonna be running this thing on the stip much, so those things may not be necessary. Do you think that a rebuild that just replaces the bands, clutches, etc... would be enough for this thing? I plan on running a really big trans cooler.

Erik
 
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 09:23 AM
  #25  
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Kemicalburns
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check out this AOD
http://ckperformance.com/ford_aod_2.html
AOD-HDSR/TPWR- TOWING PACKAGE (REVISED VALVE BODY CALIBRATION WITH MOTORSPORT WIDE RATIO GEAR SET) $1399.00

it uses the wide band 4r70w internals and larger OD kevlar band. i know a few guys running this and they love the lower first second gear
 
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 10:34 AM
  #26  
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Sgt_Pepper17
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Actually, I have seen this page before. IDK if I'm concerned with lowering first and second. I really don't wanna spend that much either. 600 to 800 dollars is about my limit. I think I can get a transmission for cheap or free from a local scrap yard or a friend. Also, I think I can get a deal on a tranny rebuild, but I really wanna know if this transmission at factory specs could withstand some minor abuse. I will prolly have a shiftkit installed, but other than that, I would keep it stock. Let me know what you think.

Erik
 
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