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my fav po use a ele. cord for the rear window on my bronco plug it in one way the window goes down plug it in the other the window goes up...
my 85 pickup
parking bake cables cut self adj. fully removed trim for the gages was wrong could not get htat one for a while hit the left turn lights seat belt light blinked hit the right lights the high beam light blinked or was it the other way around...????? dang swirch for the clutch was jumped with a paper clip... when pluged back in and adj. it worked fine.. rear bumper is a 4in x 4in sq. pipe with caps welded in the ends not a bad part but bit over kill the new hich is about 1 in by 3 feet goin under the bumper to a bracket that runs form one side to the other and welded in place other then that wiring is hacked thats about it
P.O said truck hadn't been run in 5 years, and said he tried to tune it up. then tells me 3 push rods were bent and that he replaced them. truck barely runs... He says the rocker nuts keep backing off and he cannot figure why. This is on a 300 with non-adjustable rocker setup. I removed 16 big washers and several "locknut's" from under the rocker nuts... truck now runs, albeit rough at idle, but smooths out past that. Go figure!
I can readily believe that. When I got my 84 F250 4x4, I went through it to see what was what and found that the PO had put silicone sealer *inside* all of the running lights, stop lamps, and turn signal lamp sockets. I was amazed that everything still worked but it was still quite a mess to clean out. I figured that I might as well since I was changing out all of the bulbs anyway. Some of them were awfully close to being permanent fixtures, though, as the sealer had hardened with time, temp, and use.
where do I begin...
I have a 351 windsor, the passenger valve covers have 6 bolts, and for some odd reason the drivers side has 5...
he tore out a perfectly fine A/C unit, cut up the wiring behind the dash trying to get a new stereo in, which failed.
used cans of non gloss spray paint to paint over a yellow bed, then decided to make it match he would ruin a perfect gloss paint job on the cab and paint that to match the ugly bed he had just created.
The tommy gate is the only the thing that is not completely messed up, probably because he had no part in installing it
When I bought my truck it had a blown up 302 in it.
Upon pulling and disassembly it was a roller 302 HO- that he had put a truck flexplate on which is what caused it to shake apart and throw the rods (and made it so i could get it for all of $300 )
Wow, where do I begin on this one? When I bought my truck I discovered that the PO was way too into exterior lights but only if they were less expensive than $2 each. I removed lights from the tailgate, the sides of the B pillar, the corners of the hood, the base of the rear window (attached to the glass with super glue), above the windshield, and then the kicker was the lights that were drilled into the plastic inner wheel wells in the front. That would just be a little tacky were it not for the fact that not a single one of those lights worked. Then I looked at the broken dash pad and sun visors with a poor quality flag printed fabric also attached with super glue and shook my head. After that I had the shifter welded back together because he had snapped it off about an inch from the floor. I thought I was done at this point. But wait... there's more... I got the shifter repaired and took it out for a ride and someone cut me off and almost hit me so I went to hit the horn and I heard this odd hiss I held it down and was greeted by a sickly sounding "Dixie" air horn that was missing notes. I won't even get into the wiring any further than saying that Cat5 network cable is not suitable for automotive use!!! Also wiring a radio from a factory harness to an adapter to another factory harness with another adapter is quite unnecessary. I probably removed about 25-50 lbs of extra wire and tacky add on garbage from this truck in the first year that I owned it.
Oh and if you have a 300 inline six with the feedback carburetor that isn't working right just cut wires at random to all of the computer controlled stuff it has to make it run better. Also feel free to just disconnect any vacuum hoses that you don't like, no plugs are necessary.
Then I got into the body work and found a few horribly welded in patch panels covered with at least an inch of bondo. Remarkably I have almost finished the body reconstruction effort but the PO has fought me the whole way with his "modifications".
My uncle and I were parting out an 87 F150. It had a good 5 speed and a mint plow. We knew the rest of the truck was bad. When we got it to my uncle's barn and took a torch to it, we found out just how bad.
Half the truck was wired with 14 guage romex (house wire), speaker wire, and wire nuts.
There were pieces of pressure treated 4x4's inside the front coils to hold the front end up because the coils were broken.
And then it got scary....
AFTER we drove it the 20+ miles to my uncles house on the interstate in a heavy snow storm, we found out the tie rod ends were wrapped in electrical tape to keep them from seperating. Scary S**T!
well i just got my 86 f250 351w with a utility bed. Granted i bought it for only $120. I'm just now finding out this:
1. it has a double pumper, manual choke, carb on it
2. drivers vent window smashed to gain access to cab
3. rebuilt tranny and did not replace rear main seal
4. will find out tomm if there is a kickdown cable even on the tranny???
5. cut radio harness out that plugs into the back of the radio
6. cut ac belt, disconnected blower
7. bypassed heater core since it leaked
8. God only knows what they spliced together for towing lights.
9. There were no exhaust manifold gaskets on either side of the engine. WoW!
Last edited by aricanderson; Feb 14, 2010 at 05:01 PM.
Reason: found more things. geesh.
Putting 10:1 pistons in an engine with cast iron heads.
In order to run on anything less than 93 octane, I have to retard the timing a whole bunch which causes other problems. Even on 93 it will ping if the timing is set for optimal performance.
This being a pickup with 2.75 gears; 9 to 1 pistons would have made a lot more sense.
Desktop Dyno is a handy program that the PO, had he used it, would have learned that bumping the CR from 9 to 10 on a 351W (all other things being equal) gains infinitesimal amounts of HP, but requires high octane fuel and detonation becomes a concern.
This ain't a hot rod. Therefore 10:1 was a bonehead decision, IMHO FWIW.
I wish I could just run it on 87 octane.
I had a 67 Camaro that ran mid 13's with 9:1 compression (I built the engine) and it would run fine on regular.
This truck runs low 17's and requires premium. It's a good truck but....
"Oh and if you have a 300 inline six with the feedback carburetor that isn't working right just cut wires at random to all of the computer controlled stuff it has to make it run better. Also feel free to just disconnect any vacuum hoses that you don't like, no plugs are necessary."
I did this to my 84 F150, would never pass emissions, after the hack job it passed with flying colors and got better gas mileage. How do I know, I bought it new and still have it with 365K on the od
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