When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If I keep my '04 and don't buy an '05, I'm going to swap out the gears. I don't pay anyone to work on my vehicles. I do everything myself. I'm not stupid though. I know there are some things that should be left to someone that REALLY knows what they're doing. Is this one of them? Any genious work in swapping out a set of gears? I've swapped engines, trannys and rear ends, but I haven't set up gears myself.
I don't know if I want to go from 3.73 to 4.10s or 4.30s. I tow a car on a trailer once in a while etc. Nothing crazy, but I just want more power out of the ol' girl. I'm thinking/hoping at this point gears might help. I drive alot, so mileage is a little bit of a concern. I don't want to be running 3 grand at 70. Know what I mean?
I'm going to be installing 4.56s and ARBs front and rear with the help of a couple of friends. If you have the proper tools and some patience it doesn't look to hard. I've completely dissassembled axles before, just never setup a ring an pinion.
There are a few guys hear who have done their own gear installs already.l
Sounds like we're in the same position. Plenty of mechanic type freinds and disassembled a few rear ends, but never set up the gears. Hopefully a few of the "already done it yourselfer" types will weigh in. Thanks.
to start with get a good shop book, and read it. when i swap a set for the street 4:10's are my best liked. rpms are usaaly not to high and not to low for towing. i start by using the factory depth shim from the orig. pinion and then check the pinion depth if its in specs put in the ring gear and using a dail gauge and gear lead paint set up the back lash, the paint is used to see the gear contact patern, make sure its the same as the book shows, tops it takes me is 3 hours having to press the bearing and reshim for the depth.
for setting up back lash i like the adjustable shims from reider racing they make it a bit easier.
If you change the gears in the rear, don't you have to change the gearing in the front also?
yes
with a ford you will find a rear 4:10 set will have a 4:09 front set this is ok and normal . a 4:10 rear and 3:73 front you will have problems and cause bigger ones . play safe match the sets. national and reider will help with the correct needed parts
Assuming it's a 4x4 then yes you would have to change both. I don't remember him stating whether it was a 4wd or 2wd truck. The other thing that would need to be changed is the speedo drive gear. Otherwise your speedometer will be off. Or maybe I'm living in the past and modern trucks don't use a gear driven speedo? Still, I would think some sort of recalibration would be in order to keep your speedometer (and odometer) accurate.
I like doing stuff like that its a challenge. Can you do it?, don't do it unless you do it 100 % correct. Read all you can.
Big issue is pressing bearings on and off. Also setting up the gears. If you don't have experience with a dial indicator and micrometer maybe get some help..
On a last note: Changing gears is easy to screw up.. takes patience.
The 04 rear end in question has a tone wheel on the ring gear carrier for the VSS signal to the ABS then on to the PCM then on to the speedometer. Only need on the 99 to present trucks for speedo re cal is if the tire diameter is changed.
Re-geraring is not hard but it is time consuming and does require a good understanding of teeth mesh patterns (heel, toe, pinion, ring) and the proper shiming, preload and bearing setting tasks. Sometimes you need a special tool to stress the pumkin open a little to get the whole mess back in without resorting to a BFH (giant hammer).
Some great info here guys. I appreciate it. I have 4wd, so front and back is a definite for me. My brother has set up quite a few rear ends for racing, so maybe I'll hit him up for a Saturday... I have the Ford factory manual set for my truck. Ebay, $50, couldn't beat it... I'll take a lookie see and see what it says about setting the rear end up. The first time is always the pain...
Most setup shops have dumby bearings that are new but have the inside
diameters opened up for setup purposes.They just slip on the pinon and the carrier.This eliminates damaging the new bearings while setting up depth and side clearances with shims.During pressing operationsAt least we used to have them in our shop.
Forgot about that Rich. The front especially for the carrier. rear is ok. both for pinion dummies.
By front I'm thinking D50. I don't know about the 60
Most setup shops have dumby bearings that are new but have the inside
diameters opened up for setup purposes.They just slip on the pinon and the carrier.This eliminates damaging the new bearings while setting up depth and side clearances with shims.During pressing operationsAt least we used to have them in our shop.
Rich
i use the same! a old good bearing ground out with a dremal just enough to slide over by hand to set the depth use the old preload tube and old nut. no seal ontill you have the depth set. then use the new ones. side lash is fairly easy add -subtract the way the book says to, use new bolts on the ring gear i'm sure they are nonreusables , but its cheap insurance when you do. if you go with rieder or national purchase a installation kit with the gears, for the street i use 410's or 30's the max. i like the 10's seem perfect for my use. watch the gear patern with the paint and book. good luck first one a little hard the rest are easy, if you have any doubts don't do it find a high performace trans shop that will do rears and let them