I'm going to be sandblasting my camaro front clip...is there any preparations I should do, besides degreasing. Do I need to worry about sand getting into bushings, disc brakes, etc??? By the way there isn't an engine/trans to worry about. How have you guys faired blasting body parts? Media? Sand?
Thanks, Mel

 

Wecome to FTE, If your blasting the whole front clip you should plan on removing cleaning and repacking all bearing and such,also your brake calipers, no worry on the rubber bushings of sway bars ect, just clean them out with high air presure when done.The sand gets every where so if its a moving part, figure on taking it apart and cleaning good when done. As far as body panels I've had no problem with silica sand as well as fine slag. Just test it somewhere first, not knowing your blast set up, its hard to say if any damage could be caused.
Good luck
Mike

 

Thanks Mike, they're forecasting no rain for this weekend, so I'm going to set up to sandblast....mmmm I'd better get my son on his VW Baja front axle first, he's only got this semester ( senior in High School) in auto shop to finish it up. the more he gets done there the more he can help me out...heh,heh. I just hope it'll be warm enough to set paint!
Mel

 

Klayman,

If you're blasting thick metal or steel, then sand would work. However, be careful when blasting sheetmetal with sand. I've heard from a few people that it could warp from the heat the sand produces when it comes in contact with the metal. I would test it out first on a scrap piece of sheetmetal. Set your pressure and your blasting range on a test piece. You should be good to go then.

I actually purchased two large bags of crushed walnut shells to use in blasting the sheetmetal on my trucks and on my old gas pumps. However, I will try to use sand first as it's easier to clean up and cheap to buy.

Ilya

 

Where would one get silica sand and/or fine slag? What is fine slag?

Thanks, Ilya

 

The dust from silica sand poses a health hazard, I don't really like using it. Regular sand doesn't cut as fast as silca but it is the safest, in my opinion, for you and the enviroment. Regular sand is also cheaper than silica and if you're doing it outside clean up isn't as much of a worry either. It goes without saying you should have proper face and body protection but no matter what you use you should wear a paint type respirator, look at the package to make sure it is appropriate for the use. I use one when I use my booth even though I have a vacuum systems rigged up on it.

I use slag in my blasting booth with a syphon feed blaster and a 2hp compressor. Slag is iron granduals, I think it's the by product of the foundry industry. Regular sand just didn't cut it with the small set up I have and the more agressive slag seems to do the job. I also use ceramic tips in the blaster nozzle, the slag eats up the metal ones. I buy the slag at the local hardware store, a real hardware store, not one of those pansy big box stores, for $8 a hundred pound bag. You should be able to find both the slag, which I think is called Black Beauty or Black Magic or something like that, and the silica sand at a good sand and gravel wholesaler. The slag at the sand and gravel place here was a lot more than at the hardware store. Northern Equipment also sells it in one gallon cans, about five pounds, for about the same price as the 100# bag. Shop around a little before buying.

 

Hi Mel,

Bob is right on the money about using any type of Silica (SiO2) sand - whether it's beach sand, construction sand, or "cleaned" silica blast media. You need to make SURE you have OSHA-approved breathing apparatus designed for removing silica dust. Even then, I'd avoid it if possible, although I have used it outside on some really big parts like the frame. I made sure I had an OSHA-approved full face mask with silica filters.

I've used a bunch of different stuff in my blaster - from the silica (outside only), to coal slag, other types of slag, and my absolute favorite CrystalGrit. Take a look here at Virginia Materials. They have great explanations of most of the different types of blasting media (otherwise known as grit).

Shipping costs for this stuff will kill you, unless you happen to live near one of their outlets. Coal slag and construction sand are generally available locally as Bob and others indicated. For the more specialized stuff you just have to bite the bullet or get creative. One of my sons goes to college at William and Mary, which is very close to Virginia Materials. Last trip down to see him I picked up eight 100# bags of CrystalGrit.

As far as using more aggressive media on sheet metal, the fellas have pointed you in the right direction. Try it out first on an out-of-the-way chunk of bodywork. Unlike welding, the warping from grit blasting actually comes from the expansion of the surface of the sheet metal as the grit strikes it. You can check out that action by taking a small sheet of 20 gage (or so) steel or aluminum, and blasting it on one side and then on the other. It will always warp away from the side you are blasting.

Have fun and protect yourself from the Silica and the abrasive in general.

 

Mel

I would be concerned with the Power steering gear box. I managed to get some sand packed into the input shaft seal somehow. Best plan is to pull the expensive pieces off if it isn't too much trouble. Might be quicker to remove the part, than remove the media later.

And blasting outdoors is the safest, if weather allows.

 

Your advice is appreciated, guys. I'll look into the availibility of slag out here in CA. Walnut shells should be no problem, just gotta do some $ and how aggressive comparasions. I going to do the frame outside w/ sand, got an acre so no problem. I work w/ clay, so I'm very familiar w/ working safe, one can't emphasize that enough! I've got this wild idea of utilizing my son's parts vw body for a blast cabinet....cut it behind the doors and below the windshield, got some old sheet metal to patch the back of the cab and below the windshield( cut in a side window for seeing in the lower portion) , put in some holes for blast gloves...fabricate a 4sided funnel for the bottom collection. Hey the doors and windows are sealed w/ gaskets.Just might be large enuff for a fender! ( This is all an excuse to use the cutting torch my father-in-law left me when he moved to TX and I just got a bottle of argon for my mig...gotta try that too!)
Hey I've just figured out how to do my gallery...you might want to check out the '48. Tomorrow I'll add some pics of the '52 I got on Sunday...yeah, Sunday in the pouring rain, 150 mi from home....what we do for a truck, heh. later, Mel

 

One more thing I would add about sand blasting; duct tape is great for masking anything that you don't want to blast. Use a couple of layers on anything that you want safe. I did a lot of industrial blasting, truck and trailer, when I worked in a truck body shop and we always had duct tape to cover hydraulic rams and name plates and anything else we wanted to protect. We used a very strong truck mounted blaster, a lot larger than anyone of us would use.

 

I was wondering what to do about the steering box, Bob I'll try your tip w/ duct tape. George your documentation is awesome! It's like a whole book! I'll try to get some pics of my rustic f1s in the gallery. Thanks, Mel

 

Just want to clear up a few things. Warping tends to come from stretching thin metal. Picture thousands of small hammers hitting your panels. The metal will stretch if you hit it enough with a hard substance. Which is why softer materials/medias like plastic, glass, or walnut shells are less likely to damage steel. These medias tend to be great paint strippers, but do little to nothing against rust. Which is where your sand will come in handy. Heat stress tends to be very minimal, unless youre holding your blast nozzle 2 inches from the panel(dangerous move). If you have a large unit 4 to 6 feet away from the panel is safe, but keep moving. I would go in steps though, plastic media first(strip the paint) then touch up the rusty spots with sand.

By the sound of things you have a small unit which isnt worth 2 cents in my book, but will get the job done. Its going to be a long haul though. I would find a professional to do your body panels.

Duct tape sucks really bad for masking against blasting unless youre using a small unit. If i hit duct tape with my unit it turns to a sticky glue and its a royal pain in the *** to get off. I use a 3m tape which is real rubbery(almost like electrical tape). Mask with that first then duct tape over that. that way if i hit the duct tape and smear it, i know i can get it off.

As for your steering box. The only thing to really worry about is your fluid ports which should have some sort of flared fitting on the hardline. Pull the hard lines and go into Napa or another autoparts store and find brass or steel plugs that thread right in. Make sure you get the correct threads.

If you plan on using the brakes that are on your front clip I would leave everything attached. Blast it the best you can. then pull the calipers and disks. stuff a rag in the bearing pockets and tape up your spindles especially where the back seal seats. touch up any areas you missed. when it comes to painting, paint the whole disk then bring them in and have them turned. they will turn the paint right off the braking surface. then buy new seals, bearings, and races. wont hurt to install new stuff and that stuff is cheap. that way you dont fuss around with cleaning sand out of bearings.

sorry its so long, hope it helps.

 

Swandive, don't apologize for long detail...that's what I'm looking for here! Great info and brake tips, too. Yeah I'm using a winky Harbor Freight blaster, but I"ll learn what works sooner or later. Good tools=time saved. Just called around this morn and found out the local feedstore carrys crushed walnut shells...can you beat that?? Nobody's heard of slag around that I've found so far. So I'll try the combo walnut then sand. Thanks, Mel
p.s. still struggling w/ getting pics into the gallery...

 

Mel,

Call Orchard Supply Hardware. They have industrial sand especially for sandblasting. Care to share the name of the feed store that has the crushed walnut shells? I am going to need some in the future. It would be worth the drive over if I can't get any here. Make sure that the crushed walnut shells are really small.

BTW, I am also using a Harbor Freight sandblaster. I figure that I won't use it that much, so it should last for some time.

Ilya

 

Ilya, Frizelle-Enos Co is the feed store in Sebastopol,707-823-6404. I didn't ask how fine the walnut shells were cuz I go there for feed for the geese,goats, pigeons and figured I'd just check then...plus I go by everyday on the way to work. I'll check and let you know. Heck there's probably a feedstore down your way, maybe in ol downtown San Jose left over from the ag days? Mel