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Hey Guys,
I am currently restoring my 1978 Ford Bronco witht he 351M. I currently have the engine torn apart and I am putting the intake manifold back on this weekend. I have the valley pan and i was told it goes on dry with the rubber gaskets at the ends and some silcone in the cracks between the corners where the heads are. The manifold is an edelbrock performer 400. Is there any special pattern to follow when tightening the bolts down and what should they all be torqued to? Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks
I put aftermarket gaskets on mine and did away with the pan. The 4 center 5/16 torque at 17-25 in a X patern, The 3/8 torque at 22-32 in a cercler patern strating inside and going to the outside.
dont use a thick bead of RTV unless you like your engine bay, under carrige taking a an oil bath!!! DO WHAT THE INSTRUCTIONS SAY! i always use LOCTITE HI-TAC on the intake end gaskets...why? over a period of time the silicone will squeez out causing oil leakes everywhere... the hi-tac will not. use just a dab of silicone at the corners and that is all. using the aluminium valley pan is to your discression. it actually helps...why? it keeps the hot oil directely off the intake therefore reducing your intake air temp which equals more power! ...good luck
from edlebrocks website
"With Edelbrock manifolds, we suggest using RTV silicone sealant instead of end seal gaskets. Apply a 1/4" thick ribbon of sealant across each end seal surface. See Figure 9. " http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ral_instr.html
from edlebrocks website
"With Edelbrock manifolds, we suggest using RTV silicone sealant instead of end seal gaskets. Apply a 1/4" thick ribbon of sealant across each end seal surface. See Figure 9. " http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ral_instr.html
I've used the RTV on my Cleveland numerous times, never had a problem with leaks. Put the manifold on while it's still wet, will stick to both that way. I've even had trouble getting the manifold off, it sticks so well.
Another thing you can do to make sure it doesn't leak, is if you do use just the silicone on the ends, put the silicone on, set the manifold in place and start your bolts but don't torque them, then wait (preferebly over night) then torque them after the silicone has had a chance to sit up.
Another thing you can do to make sure it doesn't leak, is if you do use just the silicone on the ends, put the silicone on, set the manifold in place and start your bolts but don't torque them, then wait (preferebly over night) then torque them after the silicone has had a chance to sit up.
i did this before, but i let the rtv set on the block for an hour before putting the intake on...it worked for about a year then the RTV started squeezing out and oil leaking so then i went back to the gaskets and HI-TAC and 3 years later its still there!
You have to make sure the block/intake surfaces are absolutely clean and oil free. Lots of people use RTV without problems, I wonder what happened in your instance?
not really sure? i've had to replaced many gaskets at work that people use RTV on the gasket, especially axle seals.
well, I don't think axle seals are anywhere near its intended use..
I know they have different temperature ratings too, need to make sure you match the product to the application.
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