e4od shifting prob.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Likes: 2
From: parkersburg usa
e4od shifting prob.
hi i have a 93 f350 7.3 na e40d 220k i just put heads on it and noticed the cts was unhooked from the pass side head the 2 prong one i beleive for the comp not the gauge so i pluged it in my tranny has always worked well shifted kinda hard and the od light flashed but shifted at the right time well since i pluged the sensor in it shifts fine until it warms up then it shifts very late and very hard but now the od light doesnt flash it seems like it will shift from 1st to 3rd unless i shift manuyally it works good id say someone unhooked it for an ez fix i checked the tps and it is in spec the cts is workin im sure what else should i check anyone seen a prob like this thanks chris
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Likes: 2
From: parkersburg usa
the cts it the coolent temp. sensor there is 2 of them the one on the drivers side head is for the gauge in the dash the one on the pass. side is a 2 prong sensor for the comp. or computer or ecm it seems like on my truck when the engine warms up the shifting gets all screwy so if that sensor is left unpluged the computer thinks the engine-transmission is cold so it shifts fine i dont know why but that is what i think is happenin to my truck thanks
chris
chris
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Ok Chris on the 93 7.3 the coolant temp guage is supposed to be run by the sender on the block just behind the drivers side vac pump bracket by the head. It has a straight push on connector. The overheat sensor is on the drivers side head front lower corner with a 90* push on connector. UNLESS someone has replaced heads or moved sensors???
If you are talking about the sensor/switch behind the coolant manifold on the block that is for the fast idle and timing advance has zipp to do with trans.
The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle, allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This deenergizes the solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.
If you are talking about the sensor/switch behind the coolant manifold on the block that is for the fast idle and timing advance has zipp to do with trans.
The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle, allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This deenergizes the solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Likes: 2
From: parkersburg usa
ok but when the sensor is plugged in i it shifts fine until the engine in warmed up then shifting goes to hell but if it is unplugged it shifts fine maybe it just decided to work right when i unplugged it so ill plug it in now and see if it makes a difference ill reply with what i find thanks
chris
chris
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Likes: 2
From: parkersburg usa
ok i just wanted to clarify what i unplugged the drivers side has the 1 wire push on on the front of the head the pass side has a 2 wire sensor on the pass side front of the head that is the one your talkin about because i have no fast idle with it unhooked i was thinking it told the computer the engine temp so it could control fast idle timing advance trans shifting? like on a chevy the torque converter wont lock until the engine has warmed upi figured ford was the same but ive been wrong b4 also on the e40d does it have 4 forward gears then a lock upp converter or just 4 gears mine shifts 3 times 1-2 2-3 and 3-4 no lock up that i can tell if im in 4th and push the overdrive button it will downshift so i know im in od but should the converter lock??? thanks chris
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: newfoundland canada
Chris,to test the lock up operation do this:when cruising (45mph)keeping your throtle steady,touch your brake pedal just enough to light the brakelights and you should feel it un-locking.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Likes: 2
From: parkersburg usa
ok i know it is not locking and the coolent temp sensor has nothing to do with it because it started acting up today b4 i even pluged it back in what it will do is rev way up in first the shift realy hardinto third gear then i think itll kinda float to fourth but if i press the od button it wont downshift then sometimes it works just fine but i know it has never locked up any ideas on what to check next thanks chris
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Likes: 2
From: parkersburg usa
well i just checked my codes with my auto xray scanner i have a code
56-no data available
67-clutch switch failure or manual lever posistios sensor
99-electric pressure control solenoid circuit failure
62-excessive converture clutch slippage
they dont sound to promising anyone have any experience with these problems thanks chris
56-no data available
67-clutch switch failure or manual lever posistios sensor
99-electric pressure control solenoid circuit failure
62-excessive converture clutch slippage
they dont sound to promising anyone have any experience with these problems thanks chris
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Chris I think you have a connector problem, check all connectors on the trans for condition. Take special care inspecting and replacing the plug on the pax side behind the heat shield....replace shield after inspection.
Do the tach, speedo and rpm guages all work flawlessly..............have you ever reset the FIPL/TPS also what color is your FIPL.
Do the tach, speedo and rpm guages all work flawlessly..............have you ever reset the FIPL/TPS also what color is your FIPL.
Last edited by PLC7.3; Jan 12, 2005 at 09:38 PM.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Likes: 2
From: parkersburg usa
fixed
well i pulled the heat shield and to my amazement the connector was barely even on the plug i pushed it in about a 1/4 inch the pervios owner must have broken the clip because it is gone put the sheild on and went for a spin all gears work even t-c lockup shifts like a well not a car but like it should b4 it shifted soo hard i thought i was gonna break somethin it prob. needs motor mounts and a trany mount after shifting like that well i realy appreciate the help prob. save me 2k plus for a rebuild thanks
chris
chris
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Likes: 2
From: parkersburg usa
well its kinda actin up a lil bit i drove it for an hour and it started to fall out of 3rd and fourth and go into neutral if i shifted to neutral then back to drive it would work again it did it like 3 times im gonna change the fluid this weekend it looks pretty burnt and double chech the tps sensor also is there any way to check the mlps my reverse lights dont work it may jus be the bulbs ill try to check it this weekend thanks
chris
chris
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
I would advise you get a good trans connector with locking tab, go to a wrecker and get one with the wires. You can remove the connection tips from the one plug and transfer to other or just cut wires and replace the end use solder and heat shrink on the wires. Disconnect batteries !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I will send info on MLPS.....
I will send info on MLPS.....
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