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Also, this is an attempt to start to fix the fuel problem on my truck. I have spent a lot of time reading as many post on "FUEL" as possible. I seem to see a trouble shooting pattern but I have a couple of questions to ask before I tell y’all about my problems and ask for suggestions!
Does anyone know where I can get a detailed wire diagram including sensors, either online(preferred) or over the counter.
Does anyone know where I can get a detailed diagram including pumps and filters of the fuel system in my truck, either online(preferred) or over the counter.
Thanks in advance!
Walt,
'88 Ranger; Extra Cab; 2.9FI Auto & Air; Electronic4x4; 3in Lift & 30in Tires; 12.5 gal. Tank
Last edited by WallyRangerman; Jan 8, 2005 at 05:20 PM.
Reason: Don't see Signature!
Best bet is the Ford "vacuum & electrical troubleshooting manual" from www.helminc.com I have this for my 87 Ranger & 95 Taurus. All circuits are included in this manual.
I understand that autozone.com has online wiring diagrams.
I plan to order the VET manual the first of the week. The shop manual looks like something I would like to have…but not today!
Ken00 if you could e-mail any fuel related wire diagrams it would help!
I will doctor my profil so that it has my e-mail address… I hope. Still a little new at this.
Hello ALL,
I have question about fuel pressure.
I have put the fuel system pressure tester on my truck and found the following:
Turning the switch on produced 40psi.
With the engine running I saw about 32psi.
When I goosed the throttle up to about 2000-2500 rpm. I saw an initial increase (quick spike) to 40psi. then a level off at about 30psi. constant
Something else that I noticed has me puzzled!
After running the engine for these tests and shutting it down, the pressure bleeds off to zero. It takes about 30-40 minutes for this to take place. Sound right???
Also, does any one know where this pressurized fuel goes? Back into the tank …I bet. Through the return?
What triggers this bleed down?
What keeps this pressure from dropping while the engine is running.
Thanks for the "wire maps" Ken! They have helped me understand what might be happening a little more.
Also, thanks to E.C. for the o-ring tip. I hadn"t considered that one! Wouldn"t there be fuel leakage from leaking injector o-ring??? Idon"t have any leaks/smell.
Walt
Help the ’88 Ranger 2.9 auto 4x4 and Walt! This truck stalled after fueling and during refueling on 2 separate 600 mile camping trips around the first of this year. This condition started after returning to the warm moist air of Florida and towing a 900 pound trailer full of camp gear. I ran 100 miles or so in between stalls. I felt like it was a fuel pump problem. Replaced the high pressure rail pump. It did the same thing again. Decided to replace the in-tank fuel pump. The fuel gauge didn’t work correctly either so I decided to fix that too. Pulled the fuel tank after seeing some rust on the top of the tank in between the cab and the bed. Replaced the tank because of the rust. Replaced the sending unit and the in-tank pump. Found there to be no filter element in the canister on the frame between the tank and the high pressure rail pump. Purchased and installed an element for this empty canister. I did not replace the in-line filter after the hp rail pump. Was replace two years ago and maybe has 2000 miles on it…maybe. Replaced the fuel pressure relay and the EEC relay. I read that these two relays were in between the PCM and the HP rail pump. I also replaced a blown-out gasket on the tail pipe after the converter assy.. This gasket finally died before the last trip. I got about 600 miles on the truck with this gasket missing. The fuel problem seams to have gone away!
THE ENGINE HAS DEVELOPED A REAL BAD MISFIRE! I punch the gas pedal after all the above parts were replace and after about 2 sec with my foot down. It starts to misfire. The check engine light flashes in time with the misfire. Read the codes. Took a while to train myself how to make this work. Got a 89 stored. Running got 11 ok. Ran truck with fuel pressure gauge hooked up and taped to windshield. 40psi key on. 32psi running during the misfire. I figured ignition… Replaced: coil pack; plug wires; plugs; dist. cap; rotor button. Engine starts and purrs! Really does sound better!
STILL HAVE THE MISFIRE! Have pulled the power leads off of the injectors one-by-one. There were a couple that seemed to not make that much of a difference, but all did make some noticeable difference. The plugs were somewhat carboned up. A couple of them had "clean" areas and couple of them didn’t. Really no smoking gun here.
Are there pin point diagnostics for a code 89? CCC clutch converter coil? Or some thing like that? I dismissed this fault because the electronic 4x4 brain box is dead…go figure.
I think my next move is to un-bolt the exhaust at the new gasket and then run it. Muffler could have gotten plugged up causing too much back pressure now?!?
I am scared to remove the element from the canister on the frame because the fuel tank still had some stuff in it even after I sloshed/rinsed it out with gas before installation.
These are the only two things that stand out in my mind as some thing that I put back together different than it was when the engine ran OK!
SUGGESTIONS ANYONE???
Is there a scan tool or diagnostics tool that will tell you what is happening to a EEC-IV engine in real time?
If I could do that or have that done on this truck I could maybe not throw parts at it and just fix it!
The one area I didn't see addressed was the ignition system.
I would still replace the inline filter. I don't think you need the other one.
I can email you the pinpoint test for the 89, let me know.
Thanks for the reply Ken!
I am not sure now much further into the ignition system i can trouble shoot. Will print out the trouble shooting guide in the tech info thread and go through it.
I did not get a chance to do the "exhaust test" last night...no time. Will try again tonight.
Please send me the pin point test for the code 89. I am sure that issue will have to be resolved sooner or later!
I am going to try to run some more gas through before I replace th in-line filter. I am fairly comfortable with the pressure readings I have gotten.
Read about Rockledge and injector cleaning last night. Think I am at least going to ohm them out.
Have you had the injectors cleaned. And by cleaned I mean power cleaned not adding something to the gas. Ford pre 1990 injectors are prone to gumming up and causing the problem you are seeing. Lack of power and missing. Your fuel pressures are right on the numbers and a leak down after 30 mins is pretty typical. Thats why they run the fuel pump for a couple of secs when you turn the key on, is to repressure the system for start up. I bought the Ford cleaning kit several years ago and use the MotorCraft CM-1001 cleaning solution this stuff really works I've seen this stuff fix engines that pretty much wouldn't run.