pulling truck set up ?'s
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pulling truck set up ?'s
I'm trying to put together a truck for local truck pulls and am looking for a little guidance. The truck will spend a little bit of time on the road, but not very much. I'm going with a ~600 HP 460, Dana 60 front, Dana 70 rear, NP435, and NP205. Max RPM's will be between 6 and 6.5 and tires will be 33" or 35" BfG mt's or at's. Questions include: 4.10's or 4.56's in the axles?, how much HP / TQ will a cast iron 351m/400 bellhousing withstand?, any clutch recommendations?, costs aside, from a strength and possible damage during failure standpoint, would detroit or lincoln lockers be better? Any feedback is much appreaciated, thanks --
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Oregon
Questions include:
"4.10's or 4.56's in the axles?"
4.56s.
"how much HP / TQ will a cast iron 351m/400 bellhousing withstand?"
I don't know the exact rating, but they have been used in conversions like this (including mine) that put out more hp/tq than you'll be, so you should be fine. I'd advise a scatter blanket or shield though since this will be a pulling truck.
"any clutch recommendations?"
McCleod springs to mind, but theres several good ones. The key thing here is to get your flywheel drilled for a 12" clutch.
"would detroit or lincoln lockers be better?
A "lincoln" locker is only as good as the guy who welded it. Go spool if you can afford it.
Hope this helped. Good axle choices btw.
"4.10's or 4.56's in the axles?"
4.56s.
"how much HP / TQ will a cast iron 351m/400 bellhousing withstand?"
I don't know the exact rating, but they have been used in conversions like this (including mine) that put out more hp/tq than you'll be, so you should be fine. I'd advise a scatter blanket or shield though since this will be a pulling truck.
"any clutch recommendations?"
McCleod springs to mind, but theres several good ones. The key thing here is to get your flywheel drilled for a 12" clutch.
"would detroit or lincoln lockers be better?
A "lincoln" locker is only as good as the guy who welded it. Go spool if you can afford it.
Hope this helped. Good axle choices btw.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Coutts Canada
Since he has a 70, he will either have to weld or go for a detroit, if you weld it I would recomend welding the spider gears themselves, as it seems that the stronger way to weld them (correct me if i'm worng on that). I second what pro said on the gears, and for a tire go with the at's. as they have the bitting (more then the mt anyway) edges needed for the tracks that you will run.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
I also agree with the at choice but for a different reason, you don't want your tires digging, and throughing dirt back infront of the sled as it will pile up then you have to pull the sled over or through this making it weigh more. another thing for the pulls only get yourself to different sets of rims for the front, and back something with almost no back spacing for one set, and something like a dually rim for the other set so the tires do not track together that way your fronts are throughing dirt infront of your rears, and they also aren't loosening up the dirt the rear tires have to dig in. Also if you can find a set get some tires that are about half worn out for the same reasons as stated above. One other thing loose as much weight as you can on the rear of your truck anywhere you can including if it is legal for your class moving your fuel tank to the front bumper. this is one time you dont want bed mounted anything.
Posting Guru
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if your hooked like a pintle hitch Get your truck to wiegh as much as the class will take I would hang tractor wieghts off the front and line the bed with some "tools" to make it heavier but you don't want "all" the wieght on the front that will be a big mess I would wiegh both F/R equally. If it is the type that puts wieght on your truck I'd agree lighten the back and wiegh the front
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
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From: Oregon
Oy, I had a total brain fart about the lack of off the shelf spools for the d70. Yea, he won't want to pay the big coin it costs to have one made for him. I think for a pulling rig getting the rear competently welded would do.
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I found this on ebay and i thought since you guys were talking about pulling trucks i would post this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=46093
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=46093
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Hotshot
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From: iowa
Originally Posted by Dustin_86
if your hooked like a pintle hitch Get your truck to wiegh as much as the class will take I would hang tractor wieghts off the front and line the bed with some "tools" to make it heavier but you don't want "all" the wieght on the front that will be a big mess I would wiegh both F/R equally. If it is the type that puts wieght on your truck I'd agree lighten the back and wiegh the front
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Senior User
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From: clarks mills, PA
something else you might want to consider is a scatter shield belhousing to keep your legs from being obliterated when the clutch explodes and will take all the horsepower you can throw at it. in fact it might even be required
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Thanks to all! I better get going on this thing, I've already made a bet with a chebby owner on who will do better at a pull this coming June... Any other suggestions or recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: House Springs, MO
Fabricate blocks for the rear axle that can be slid in between the axle and frame so as not to let the truck squat. Also would probably want to box and double-up the frame from in front of the rear axle as far front as you can. I never thought about the offset wheels. That's a good idea. Don't forget your ladder bars, front AND rear. And mount your connection point as low as legal. Driveshaft hoops, 1410 u-joints, gauges, all the bells and whistles...
Last edited by momudder720; Jan 12, 2005 at 02:05 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
actually you want the connection point as high as possible the higher it is the more the sled pulls down on the rear, and loads the rear tires (the whole reason for trying to lighten the rear, and weigh down the front) one puller told me that for every inch the draw bar is lower you loose 500lbs of weight on the rear while pulling not sure if that is a definate figure but I know it is close.
Senior User
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From: clarks mills, PA
we are talking 4x4 trucks here not 2wd tractors. i highly doubt that you will ever be able to get enough traction at the rear to pick the front end off of the ground without running ag tread. and even then i highl douby it. even the 2wd funny trucks keep the nose on the grond and all thats out on the nose is the motor and they make one hell of allot more power than he is going to with that blower sitin on top of the intake