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I have the opportunity to buy this engine for probably pretty cheap. I don't know if I would bore the engine .080 over even if it would take it but I am kinda excited because these are supposed to be able to at least take a 4.13 bore safely (I would have it sonic checked). I don't know what kind of shape one of the cylinder walls is in though because this engine had a piston or a wrist pin break (may need sleeved on that cylinder). It also has the full sump pan which I may use on my current engine in my pickup. The 389 has the same stroke as a regular 390 (3.78) where as the 391 has a stroke of 3.79
I was wondering if the 389 crank is a forged unit. I am guessing that being's how it has the same stroke of a regular 390 that it is probably just a regular nodular iron 390 crank. I would probably sell the crank in it either way though cause I plan on using a 410 (428) crank or longer on the next FE I build for myself. I would really like to buy the new Genesis 427 side oiler block and use the 428 crank in it. As you can probably tell I will have to sell other parts and save money for one of those blocks though.
Nice score! Sounds like you'll get some nice parts. I've never heard of a 389 combo either....pretty cool. Hey I think we all would like a new sideoiler block and the Pond blocks are out now also. Supposed to be a little less $$$ than the Genesis. Nice stuff. Still a little out of my range for now to. G.
That engine is sometimes called an FT as opposed to an FE. It has a steel crank that has larger diameter crank snout and uses a different timing cover than the FE engine. Those 389/391 FT engines are usually found in larger trucks. From what I've heard the front snout can be turned down to fit an FE timing cover.
hey be careful of 389 engine blocks. they will crack in the rear oil galley on the back of block. the crack will be inside of the bellhousing bolt pattern between the cam and crankshaft.
hey be careful of 389 engine blocks. they will crack in the rear oil galley on the back of block. the crack will be inside of the bellhousing bolt pattern between the cam and crankshaft.
Thats where my 390 cracked, so it can happen on any of them.
My subsitute 390 block turned out to also be cracked, on the water jacket at the very front corner of the block, it was able to be fixed by the pin method.
Knock out the freeze plug and check that cyl wall gap! Easy to do and you will know before you sonic there is a very good chance it will go to 4.13. The 13/64" drill bit shank should be a snug fit for 428 thickness walls. 17/64" for 390 thickness. It will take you less than 30 min to knock out all six plugs and gap the walls. JMO, G.
I measured a chunck of broken cylinder wall at .149 The walls are probably thicker in some area's hence the term core shift, but I really don't think this block was a candidate for a 4.13 bore.
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