Man, that would be great if you could find it!! THANKS!

You know what's been bothering me most...There was no drop in oil pressure while I was driving along...It just DIED and would not restart. I'm having a great deal of trouble understanding why an engine with good compression, and everything else being equal, would need to be replaced just because it isn't getting fuel. But like I said earlier, I'm not a diesel mechanic, but I do know my way around a good old fashion small block bowtie.

 

That's not a bad idea, and I'll sure give it some thought. Thanks!!!

 

Drivinfool, I like the idea of putting a used engine in it and then selling it and getting a new one. Since it's for business can't you write off something like 40% the first year?

Doing the math, would it be worth it in the long run putting a 12K engine in a rig with 167,000 miles?

 

It does make sense. I will take it under serious advisement. I'll check Oregon first since it's already there, then I'll do a search in WA. Thanks for the input.

 

Now mind you...I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but the techs at the dealership in Oregon showed me the oil pump that's inside the front cover (don't remember what it's called) and it had several score marks in the teeth of the gears as if something foreign got into the engine. They replaced that pump, however they could not get the engine to fire and could not get more that 100 PSI to the injectors. The tech then closed off some other pump (maybe the injector pump) and got an increase in pressure, however they indicated there may also be something wrong in the heads. Their recommendation was to not throw bandages on it and hope it runs. They suggested a new engine.

I hope that covers everybodys questions. I'm at a loss for what to do.

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Sorry to hear about your problems. First thing I would do is give serious consideration to getting a second opinion from another dealer. If the problem is in the heads, why replace the entire engine, especially if they haven't even pulled the heads to check them yet???? It may cost a couple hunderd bucks for the second opinion but with that much $$ on the line, I would want to be real sure I needed the engine.

I am not so sure I would go the used engine route. It is a big gamble unless you can verify how the engine ran before the vehicle was totaled. You may be buying even bigge headaches. Unless there was a big puddle of oil on the ground after this problem suddenly developed (i.e. - rod through side of block) I would try to make the existing engine work. I suspect the problem may not be all that complicated and you have parts replacers working on the engine when what you need is a troubleshooter. Nothing you have described sounds catastrophic.

You may not be a diesel mechanic now but with $12K on the line, I don't see where I would have much to lose if I were you. If you screw it up, you are no worse off than where you think you are right now and chances are you can straighten this out on your own for a lot less than $12 GRRRR and get one heck of an education in the process. I would want to know what the problem was (with definitive proof of the problem) before I made the decision to replace the engine. Good Luck. Hope it turns out well for you.

 

Here is what I got from a tech:

clean the oil pressure regulator valve. if it sticks it wont let the truck start. It is located near the crank pulley in the oil pump housing. Then if the oil pressure is still low check for a broken c-clip in the oil pump. If you don't have high enough oil pressure, your injectors won't work.

 

Those tax laws changed radically as of Jan 1 2005, the huge write offs we used to be able to take are gone, although you still have options, it's not like last year. Same as donating a vehicle to charity, you now have to take what the donated rig actually sells for, not it's estimated worth. Ken

 

When you say there was no drop in oil pressure, do you have aftermarket guages? I didn't see them listed in your signature, so I am curious. The stock guage won't drop until there is less than 6 PSI and that sure ain't enough to lubricate this engine. Just wondering if maybe this was a good case to take to FMC about why we NEED decent guages and not idiot lights in disguise. Very sorry to hear about your misfortune, and I hope you can get it going again. My $.02 is go with the new engine, the rest of the truck overall will probably push it to its life limits too. Mat

 

Thanks! I'll have that checked.

 

I was going by the dash guage.

 

and nobody finds it strange a cam and lifters went out at 154k?

excuse me? is it not a roller cam/lifters????

i have run a set in a 5.0 for 274k, with little wear evident when torn down....if a cam was taken out, there had to be metal in the oil, thats all there is too it....with score marks on the oil pump, there has to be some on the crank journals, cyls etc....i doubt you have all the compression you should.
i lost a cam in another 302, ran an iron gear on a billit cam (young, stupid, etc...) for about 500 miles, ended up walking the distributor gear over the worn cam gear, and broke the snout off the cam.

engine was toast, tons of blowby..... had to bore it .040 to clean up the cyls, and replace the crank as a .030" cut did not clean it up....

since the milage is so high, i would check out what sbv45 said, cuz it sounds very worth a try..... and after that, look into a wrecking yard motor. they run 5-6k most times.... and make sure you get an 03! or your in for a nightmare......



keep us posted, i would love to read about the autopsy!

www.car-part.com btw for the engine....

 

Maybe I missed something and it is quite possible that I did. The thread is getting long and it has been a couple of days since I read it fom the beginning but: the onyl know problem with the enigne is that it has low fuel pressure. If this is correct, it seems that there is a big rush to judgement in deciding to replace the engine or tear it down. Can't we somehow troubleshoot the fuel system first and verify that it works, then check compression, ...

 

I appreciate everyone's input. It's given me lots of food for thought. I'm getting the truck back home on Friday, and I'm taking it to my trusted techs in Spokane. I'll keep everyone abreast of what happens. In the meantime...thanks to all who responded. It means a lot to me.


Marty

 

Real bummer Marty .... guess I won't see you in the yard anytime soon ?
I was just in Airway Heights deliverying a trailer last week .... I forgot your number ...I found it now ...I'll ring you next trip to Spokane .... Good luck , my "local" big truck scrap yard has a 6.0 , but , I think you'll find one closer than N.IL ...price is $6,000 for a 40,000 mile engine ....

If I were you , since we are in the same business , if engine replacement was needed , I'd most likely go with the new engine with the 200,000 mile warranty and run the rig into the ground ... I AM looking into getting a backup truck , most likely a wrecker , to fill in if my primary truck bites the big one ....

 

Thanks Bro.
I got a response from someone who has a used, complete, "low miles" 6.0 in stock for $5400 with a 90 day unlimited miles warranty. Getting more info soon. One of our drivers who lives in Eugene is towing my truck back to Spokane for me on Friday. I'll have my trusted tech look at it for me. If he agrees with the other, I may order that motor to keep me going. Not many loads right now anyway. You be carefull out there.