Gang,
I currently have a 1956 Ford F700 that I am in the midst of restoring. The ultimate configuration maybe a vintage car hauler used for hauling my toys (64 Galaxie, Vettes, etc.) to car shows. My question, I'm about to do a rebuild on the 272 motor. Naturally I will be overboring the block to 292+. The truck currently has the mid-range heads with 1.78" intake valves. My question surrounds building a good truck motor with bottom end power and torque and what are the best parts to select for my desired results. I have obtained a cast iron 4bbl intake with the newer style holley bolt pattern (at this point who cares about weight!!!). Also I picked up a flea market Holley 600cfm carb which I rebuilt (with electric choke). Is it worth obtaining the big valve heads (1.92" intake valves) or will this just detract from lower RPM power and torque?? Should I rebuild and port (exhaust side) my current heads?? Naturally I will not be doing 9,000 rpm hole shots with this little puppy but would like to aquire additional low/mid range power, say in the 250HP range when all is said and done (need it to be able to get out of it's own way). Also is there a good truck cam available making power down low in the rpm range that would work good in this application?? Any other parts that one might suggest?? I am also planning on eliminating the stock 2-into-1 exhaust system with the cross-over pipe and going with duals (exhaust manifold change). I would even consider headers if this would aid in the power making department if someone has a decent source to suggest for purchasing these. Any help you guys can give me in part selection would be greatly appreciated. I am also looking for a 57 on up distributor as I have read the pre-56 are no good. Are there other upgrades to my ignition I should add or is the 57 and after distributor up for the task as is?? Should I add a pretronix (sp??) unit and eliminate my points completely?? I have used these units before in other applications and very very pleased with the results.
Thanx....

 

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MSD - Welcome to our forum!
Generally speaking, smaller valves, long tube small-ish diameter headers, the dual exhaust (with crossover) and an RV-style cam (moderate lift, longer duration) will all add to the low end torque and towing/hauling performance. Your intake and carb sound perfect for the application.
I wouldn't change the heads. I'm not sure what you mean by "rebuilding and port (exhaust side)". It is never a good idea to do something to one side of the breathing without balancing it on the other. I would match port (eliminate any mismatch) between manifolds and heads on BOTH intake AND exhaust ports, or I would leave it alone. Again, match porting primarily improves high rpm performance, not so much help for the bottom. But, if you have it apart, why not? I'm only talking here about matching them at the port and blending 1 inch to 1.25 inches into the head.
Other parts to suggest is a large area paper filter element and oil cooler. (I'm a firm believer in controlling fluid temps to the max). I also very much like using an electric radiator fan switched by a temperature sensor. This maintains my 56 Effie's engine temp within a 170-210 degree range no matter what the traffic or weather conditions.
Changing out to an electronic ignition won't dramatically add to the bottom, but will be less trouble (no points to set, etc). Pertronics makes an excellent unit that will convert your stock distributor. Just adding that to your stock dist will save money over swapping out to a new (57+) unit. Since you have good results in the past from that, I would definately go that way and stay with stuff you know.
Good Luck. Post pictures of your truck in your gallery. It makes it easier for us to help you.

 

Randy,
Thanx for the feedback. A slight typing error with regards to my comments on modifying my heads. I was referring to portting/port matching the exhaust side of my heads. I was under the impression that the intake ports flow well in stock configuration and the only area requiring port matching was the exhaust side. Any suggestions for sources for a good RV type cam?? I've surfed the net and have found very few options for aftermarket cam suppliers.
Mike

 

Mike -
Generally, especially after the heads are resurfaced, there is mismatch at the intake ports as well (from casting flaws, if nothing else). The mismatch at the exhaust headers is usually a little worse, for some reason.
I run a 351C in my Effie and so am not familiar with specific Y-block cam options or part numbers. Others here are definitely experts on the subject. They just haven't read your post yet. I'm sure you'll get some references for cams that others have been happy with.
BTW, if you pick a cam with near stock lift, you can use stock lifters and springs.

 

I mentioned John Mummert's Y-Block web site in a post somewhere, but I can't remember where (memory is really going ). Carl and some of the other FTE folks here will certainly have additional info, but you can get a good starting selection of cams (and most other parts) for Y-blocks here. John's crew seemed pretty well-informed when I talked with them, and they were very friendly and helpful. You might want to give them a call even if you don't decide to buy anything from them in the end. They should be able to advise you regarding most of your questions.

 

A Ford Y block would not be my first choice in a F700. If you want to be period correct than the Ford Truck/Lincoln 317 would be the minimum choice. Next up in that family is the 341 and 368 as used in Lincolns & Mercurys. Since the cars never offered stick shift you will need a 317 truck engine to get all the parts to bolt to your tranny.

Another choice is the 332 truck block which came along in 56 and was offered in the F700, and was used until 65 when the 391 FT (truck FE) came along. It will bolt to your tranny.

As a kid I worked for a Ford dealer who sold new F350 wreckers. The 272/292 couldnt get out of its own way much over 45-50 mph with a load on the hook. They had a good sideline business installing Lincoln engines; the 368 in particular would fly down the NY Thruway with anything out back.

Of course the best setup IMO would be a warmed up 460 with any one of several trannys.
The 390/428 FE would move it OK also but the 460 has the benefit of a wide choice of build parts.

Size counts!

 

I bought a rebult distributor for a 58 Ford heavy duty 292 truck engine at Advance Auto Parts for around $60. If you go the 460 route watch E Bay for parts,,,I built one from parts for less than $350. New cam % bearings, mains, rods, rings and oil pump(melling). It runs great BUT uses LOTS of gas,,,Have it in a beat up 82 F250.


Bob/Ohio