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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 01:14 PM
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Idle Speed Control Motor

I've just paid a small mint to have my '97 F150 worked on to replace a starter, plugs/wires, & a few other odds and ends... one more thing that the shop recommended but I have opted out of for the moment was to replace teh Idle Speed control motor... was told that it is at the top of the intake manifold.

Anyone with experience on how easy this is to replace? I'm not a super mechanic but have done some things such as replaced the lower tie rod arm. They wanted $300. Just trying to determine if it is any easy do-it-yourself or to leave it to a professional.

thanks for any help anyone out there can provide
 
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 01:17 PM
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maybe I should have said that I bought the truck in 2003 with about 168K miles on it...has run pretty well... keep oil changed and tires rotated but I don't put many miles on it... it now only has about 172K 2 years later... use it about 2-3 times/month.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 03:39 PM
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What they are talking about is the IAC, (Idle Air Control valve). These can be cleaned but only for a temp fix. Better to replace it. Changing it is very easy, so easy even a caveman could change it! (oops....isn't that a commercial?)

Anyway.....Just remove the plastic cover over the intake, (4 bolts), the on the top/back of the intake manifold, you will see it. It is attached with 2 bolts, and has a 3 or 4 wire harness going to it. Just undo the bolts, unplug the harness and throw it away. The new one just bolts and plugs back in the same as the old one did. I just replaced mine and it cost me $70 at Autozone. Special order though. Then bolt the plastic cover back on again and done. Just dont forget to plug the harness back in. The first time I cleaned the old one, I forgot to plug it back in and I freaked when the truck wouldn't stay running. I thought I had really messed something up.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 04:04 PM
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Talking Thanks for the answer

BillyBob69... thanks for the response... $70 beats the heck out of $300 after dropping about $1200 on other fixes... got a good deal on it a couple of years ago and the truck has been a big help over the past two years so I'm not really complaining if this keeps it going for another couple of years.

Like your Bronco!... I had the same model white on blue with a 351M... it hauled the dogs while I was into doing obedience training with them...the dogs were gone in '96 (old age) & the bronco soon after when we added the 4th kid. Enjoyed it while I had it.

Thanks again!
 
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 04:14 PM
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Maybe I should have said that my Bronco was a '79 with same body style...not same model.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 05:04 PM
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83UTVOL, if your shop wanted $300 for that, and $1200 for the other things listed, I wouldn't do business with them again. Those prices are inflated much higher than most shops.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 05:08 PM
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I agree... was trying out a new place... they have lost my business... prices are fairly high in the Northern VA (just outside the beltway) area. I have learned my lesson. Glad I held off on the Idle air control valve and am glad I found this forum. It will likely save me money in the future and maybe I can even help someone else out some day.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 07:05 PM
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Good to hear that kind of place won't get your business. In the future, if you ever have any questions, feel free to post them on the forum, there are a bunch of us who are more than happy to answer any questions to the best of our ability.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 08:59 PM
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First question is why change it???

Do you have an idle stablility problem?? If not why do it??
 
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 06:43 AM
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Yes, I do have an idle stability problem but I didn't know what was causing it. After a new set of plugs and wires, new battery (I put that in... go Interstate! 850CCA for $90...I managed to get a deal on that at least), new starter, it was still having low idle issues & the IAC valve is the expected culprit.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 08:44 AM
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The idle air control valve can be the culprit for alot of different idle issues....at least its the easiest to change out. One way to tell if that is your problem, take out the current IAC and using brake cleaner, spray out the carbon build up then dry it real good. Put it back in and see how it runs. If it gets better, then you know that is the problem part.

my old Bronco was and will be a great truck once its done. I have always wanted a "toy" so when I got the F150, the Bronco went in for a ground up restoration. Can't wait for it to get done.

As for this forum.........

It would take quite awhile to list the things I have done myself especially on my Bronco with advice from this forum. I sat one day and figured I had saved at least $4000 in labor costs just from reading about how to fix certain items in this forum. Best forum I have ever found.
 

Last edited by BillyBob69; Jan 6, 2005 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 08:58 AM
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The IAC valve is a solenoid with a cone shaped pintle attached to it. Its basically an adjustable vacuum leak. When it gets crudded up with carbon buildup it doesn't work as good as it should.

Since its so easy to get at I would remove it, clean out the passages with a small brush and some carb/choke or throttlebody cleaner and reinstall it.

Or you could drop the money and put a new one on.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 12:14 PM
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if you dont notice any problem with your idle at the moment , maybe they were BSing you. ive seen that alot. and then they charge the crap out of you for something you dont need. their tune changes a little when you tell them you want the old parts.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 05:36 PM
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Interesting Thread

Hi, I'm wondering what a "normal" idling speed is. I've noticed that mine idles at about 8 to 9 hundred rpm with the occasional drop for half a second. Is it idling too slow?

Cheers
 
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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That is about right. Mine sits at just a hair over 700 and drops a bit when I put it in gear
 
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