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'86 E-350 6.9, charging system has external regulator. in past it has alway overcharged and fried batteries, lately it started dimming lights at stops, so I replaced the alternator and regulator, no the system is only putting out 12.22 - 12.32. with lights on and idle/or higher rpms.. any advice..
will my system eventually go dead?
From: Where they take the census by counting the appliances on the front porch and multiplying by five
Electrical charging system
Welcome to FTE be1345!
It kind sounds to me like there's a definite problem with the voltage regulator. As in it's not doing it's job. This will cause an electrical melt-down of your charging system. When I've encountered it before, it always took a few components with it.
While I don't have an answer for you, I can welcome you to the website and tell you to hold whatcha' got 'cause helps a comin'.
Your system isn't charging and when the battery is fully discharged the engine won't run. It's not common for new parts to be bad but it is possible. Several things to check: Make sure stator and field wires on the back of the Alt are connected on the correct stud. The new voltage regulator needs a good ground, make sure it's mounted tightly in it's original location. Make sure the battery has not been damaged by being over charged.
i have checked and re-checked the alt, i even pulled and bench tested.
the regulator is secure, but... if the batteries were fried, would that make the system not charge?
i actually got so frustrated, i put the old requlator back in and got the same reading.
my readings aren't as high as earlier, the batteries have been drained a bit. I'm reading around 11.82 now while running.
when I run up batteries to about 12.40, then start motor, run all accessories (custom van), it slowly goes down. I stopped at 11.80 since there was a pattern.
Follow the wires around and make sure they are hooked up like the above diagram if you have a factory amp guage in the instrument cluster. I know the above diagram looks too simple, but it's all it takes to get the truck to charge.
The voltage output of the alternator will vary depending on the condition of the battery, and how much electrical load you have. It will also be affected by belt slippage and idle rpm. Make sure the alternator harness is original, and the "bat" wire coming from the alternator is large enough(should be around 10 guage originally).
Do you have an amp meter or a volt meter? A bad amp meter will cause your system to not charge. Do the following checks. Measure the voltage on the 10 gage, red wire at the ALT. It should be battery voltage at all times. Measure voltage of the wire the connects to the stud labled F on the back of the ALT( the orginal wire color code is orange with a light blue stripe). It should be battery voltage when the key is on. If both of these check ok you should be charging. The yellow with white stripe wire that plugs into the regulator on the A connector should have battery voltage when the key is on. If all of those are ok make sure the ORNG LT BLU wire is connected to the ALT post marked F. When you get it fixed, and you will let us know what you did.
Oh Yeah,
A picture's worth a thousand words. Good job!
well, after much testing, retesting, asking many techs questions, it came down to a bogus alt from "checker auto" i will say that it bench tested twice as "good". the third time, we let it run for 30-40 seconds and bingo, the stator was bad.
i replaced the alt today and seem to be charging around 14.8 at around 2500rpm with all accessories turned on.
thank you all for your input, it gave me some troubleshooting experience.
we are off to california/disneyland for the holiday season in our awesome FORD custom diesel van.