I have grown up around 73-79 fords. I am looking for a 3/4 ton play toy just to go mud riding(swore I would never have a 4x4, things change) My dad the all knowing ford guy(yeah right) says 80-86 fords were the worst ones ever made. The thing is that the 73-79 trucks are getting very hard to find in decent shape. It doesn't have to be perfect. I'm just tired of wiring problems and everything starting to rott. I would like some opinions on the toughness of the 80-86 trucks.

 

The early 80's 100 and 150's had the silly holes in the frame to lighten them. Id avoid those for strength. Otherwise, up to 85 I think, the 9" was still available, and you can get stronger rear axles in the 80's, so they are pretty tough Id think. I consider the solid axle of the 70's stronger myself, in the front though.

 

don't under estimate any ford, the 80-85 years were very strong, too many people critisize the ttb front axles, but they're alot stronger that most people give them credit for. the 17" of wheel travle you can get out of them is good to consider. The only downfall is the price of lifts, etc. for them

later
fordnut85

 

If you are trying to avoid rot, don't look at the early 80's pickups. They are very bad for rust over the wheel wells, cab corners, and rear bed area. But the price is usually right. I think people are starting to collect the 70's models.

 

I think the early 80's (80-82) made for better trucks than the 83 and up. They tended to not have the computer controlled engine set ups, but still had the electronic ignition. The 9" was available in all of these years, but was questionable after that as they introduce the 8.8" in the '83's (with a few getting 9") and they started with the feedback carbs and more restrictive engine controls which are prone to many weeks of hairpulling to get them running correctly once they've decided to go away on you.

I think the TTB/IFS thing was right on the money. They can be a pain when it comes to getting alignments. I ended up aligning my own front ends with a ruler, tape measure, string and level as I always had better tire wear than with the shop mechanic and his alignment computer. The lifts may be expensive, but they're cheaper than the lifts for my 2000 F150.

The condition of the truck has many factors in it. I had an '82 truck that was bought new in Nevada and it's ran through 11 winters in Washington's rainy side still relatively rust free. The '73 I had was a Wyoming truck until '86, and after 8 years in the rainy winters it already had holes in the rear fenders and bed. All areas didn't use salt in the winter (if it snowed), only sand. I never really washed them thoroughly, just once a year if I was feeling ambitious. My Dad's '84 Bronco was fine until a poor paint job after a wreck, now it's a rust bucket. His '73 and '79 didn't have nearly the problems with the finish I had with my 70's truck.
My point is: normally the finish will depend on how it was taken care of, and where it was driven, but not always. Just look really closely and keep a magnet handy if you've got doubts.

-Kerry

 

I have an 86 F-150 4X4, which features a factory 9 inch rear. I have found the truck to be very durable, but I don't beat it. I got it from my dad who always took care of it, and he bought it from the original owner in 89 who took care of it. It is in very good condition and is rust free, however I don't know if that is common. It's even a shortbed flareside, what more could you want? the only problem is I don't really like the EEC-IV setup, but the 302 runs good and with 3 speed and OD it moves. Find a good one and you'll be happy.

 

not all of the early f-150s an bronco's had the swiss cheese frames(my 81 an 84 never did), but avoid the trucks that have them... by the way the f250's and f350's were also subjected to fords silly lighten the frame strategy, we've got lots of logging company leftovers in the wreckers up here (BC Canada) most with rusted/broken frames.

 

Mine's pretty tough - it drove home from the rollover, and all I got was a little broken collar bone. :-X23
http://www.webphotos.com/list_photos.asp?mi=3&smi=1&a=13217
It stands up to no end of abuse, including jerking stumps, occasionally towing over 10,000lb, off-road abuse, doing 90mph whenever I think I can get away with it, and pushing large objects that are in my way, like 30yd dumpsters, small cars, dump trucks, & trees.

 

Mine sounds like a duplicate of Nick's. 86 150 4x4 5.0 EFI. I have used it hard since I bought it in '89. It has been a construction truck and for the last 8 years has been subjected to hauling 6+ cords of firewood out of the mountains every fall - always overloaded. It has 308K miles - engine has been rebuilt once, 4spd OD tranny rebuilt twice and factory 9" L diff repaired twice. (tended to blow out axle ends and side gears so I put in a std carrier last time - I miss the locker but repair parts were getting harder to come by) Most of the sheetmetal and box has been replaced due to accidents for the most part.

I prefer the 73-79 body style, but I can't say anything bad about this '86. It's done everything I've asked and then some (except the time I tried to haul a 1500# trailer loaded with a 6500# dualie truck from Kansas to Montana) - she's just too light for that

And it is still on the road nearly every day. Pretty much the definition of Ford tough.

 

My '84 Is worked pretty hard on our farm and it's never missed a beat.
P.S.-I wouldn't trade that indepedant suspension for the world. My rear tires leave to ground quite a bit in the technical stuff but i've never had one of those front tires lose contact.

THEY'RE TOUGH!!!!

 

If you want something that's gonna be cheap to lift, good and strong, and be free of emissions junk, go to a HD F250 or 350(same frame, 1/4" thick), leafs on all corners, lotsa engine options(84 was the first year for a factory 460 powered 4x4) good HD drivetrain(D60, or Sterling 10.25 Full Floaters, some Diesels got a D70)the front will be a TTB D50, which isn't a bad axle, but, the solid F350 D60 front(85+ IIRC, I know that 87 up definatley has it) will bolt in a F250HD or 350 with the D50, thereby putting your drivetrain stregnth right with that of a late 70's truck, about the only weak spot would be the BW alloy T-case, but, a NP 205 is almost a direct bolt in. Getting into 87 up, you get those oh so nice alloy case 5 speeds... LOL
Evan
86 F250 HD XLT Lariat Explorer 4x4 ex. Extended Cab: 460 with factory 2.25" catless duals to the muffler(still running the stocker aaargh)
/T19(syncroed granny low)/BW 1345/3.55 geared Full Floater 10.25 and Dana 50 TTB/ 265/75R16 Hankook FR04's on 16x8 Whitespokes(street tires... Need mudders)
78 F150, 351M/C6, eventually to be repowered with a 400

 

I have an 86 that i beat on a regular.The body is swiss chesse as far as frame no proublum.I junked the AOD for a 78 C-6 no swapping trouble.The EFI I also trashed after it drank about 5 gallons of water do to the factory air box set up.IFS no proublums yet but looking for a Dana 60 just in case.The tranfer case is stock Borgwarner 1345. It's not a NP205 but it works.plus for mudding the 80's weight is less.

 

Just curious - are you sure your t-case isn't a BW-1356? Got pics?

 

Steve: My truck has a 1345 too, kinda doesn't make any sense, but, that's what's in there... I could snap some pics, but, I'd have to get out the high pressure sprayer first... LOL. Mine has a flange style output at the rear, and is set up for the big U-Joints ETC you'd associate with a F250HD with a 460... There's about 160,000 miles on it, and, it ain't broke yet, and, this truck has not been babied.
Evan
86 F250 HD XLT Lariat Explorer 4x4 ex. Extended Cab: 460 with factory 2.25" catless duals to the muffler(still running the stocker aaargh)
/T19(syncroed granny low)/BW 1345/3.55 geared Full Floater 10.25 and Dana 50 TTB/ 265/75R16 Hankook FR04's on 16x8 Whitespokes(street tires... Need mudders)
78 F150, 351M/C6, eventually to be repowered with a 400