So my new '82 E150 4.9 van with 225,000 miles on it has now been diagnosed with a broken piston. That is what the rapping is at my dog house door. The terrible leak at the back engine stopped 95% all by itself.
The shop said I might get another 3,000 miles out of it if I drive it easy and try to avoid the rpms that it is the loudest. That is second gear at 35mph and up. In third it starts to rap at 55mph and this is with or with out acceleration.
1) Should I keep driving it around town doing my carpentry work out of it untill she blows?(money is not easy to come by latley and I really need a work van).
2) Is it adviseable to get an engine from the junkyard and would I be making it too big of a job to go to a little bigger motor to help me over the many Colorado mountain passes.
3) Should I just hang my humbled head realizing a foolish $450 purchase plus the $650 in parts I have put into it with the six full days of labor (which I enjoyed) and start looking for another work van?
Might I mention that it runs pretty good, has a rebuilt trans. the body is in slightly above average condition, new windshield, shocks, brakes, studded tires, and a new used drivers door and red leather drivers seat, plus music and still gets 18 mpg.
I am a novice who is not shure if I am just throwing good money after a bad investment.
Thanks for your advice.
Grant:-

 

Grant, Believe me " I feel your pain" If it was me I'd replace the piston and keep on rollin. The pan on that engine can be dropped while the engine is in the van. The top end is accessible form inside and under the hood. Pull the head, take the bottom cap off the rear piston rod and push the piston up and out If it's a standard size replace it with the same. Run a bottle brush hone in the bore, knock off any cylinder ledging and put a new piston,rings and rod bearing in place. Make sure the piston is "facing" the right way and reassemble. Make it a week-ends work. While you're at it you might replace all the rod bearings,Probably standard, and change the oil pump. With the new head gasket and assorted stuff you won't be out too much money and odds are you'll get another 100 k out of it. Best of luck.............

 

I agree with Mike. That's what I'd do too.Look--

gaskets --60.00
piston -20.00
rings -10.00
rod bearings --40.00
oil pump 20.00
assorted tools and sealers 20.00
Roughly 170.00 plus your weekend labor.
While these prices are approximate, I feel you're dollars ahead versus getting another vehicle. You'd pay this just in tag, title, taxes, etc. But that's me....What can I say, I'm a cheapskate!lol.

Chuck

 

I agree also, even though I'm new to the site, I have that same motor in my 1980 utility bed work truck. I bought mine already rebuilt w/rebuilt tranny. it is gutless, but very dependable and cheap to work on.

i have performed the same job on two different vehicles (old jeep cherokee and 80 chev straight 6 250) it requires a few specialty tools, but having a vechicle you know what is good and bad on makes all the difference when it comes to buying another one.

good luck.
don't get in a hurry putting in the new rings.. be patient..

james

 

One other point.....don't try to get another 3000 miles out of it the way it is. If that piston shatters you could really be stuck on the side of the road with much bigger problems. Usually what breaks is the skirt right below the rings and then they'll break around the piston pin. If that takes place you could end up jambing the rod cross the cylinder bore and really breaking something. If at all possible get it off the road. Best of luck.....keep us all posted. Haynes or chiltons manual can really be a help right about now........you can do it!

 

Always Learning
Mike, Chuck, and James,
You have been a great help. This is the best site I have ever participated with. I hate to waste things and if this is the next best thing to a junkyard motor well thanks to you guys....

I am raring to get on it . I have a Trecks deck to finish before the snow falls and thus must have it on the road for another week, probably 200miles.
I was told that the berrings were a tricky job by another user here so I am truly sweating the possibility that I might botch the engine. Also have been told that if I go that far I should rebuild the whole engine?
If you guys can tell me what the tricky stuff is that I should look out for I would feel a lot better about it.
What speicalty tools do I need to purchase?
:7
Many thanks,
Grant

 

>Always Learning
>Mike, Chuck, and James,
>You have been a great help. This is the best site I have
>ever participated with. I hate to waste things and if this
>is the next best thing to a junkyard motor well thanks to
>you guys....
>
>I am raring to get on it . I have a Trecks deck to finish
>before the snow falls and thus must have it on the road for
>another week, probably 200miles.
>I was told that the berrings were a tricky job by another
>user here so I am truly sweating the possibility that I
>might botch the engine. Also have been told that if I go
>that far I should rebuild the whole engine?
>If you guys can tell me what the tricky stuff is that I
>should look out for I would feel a lot better about it.
>What speicalty tools do I need to purchase?
>:7
>Many thanks,
>Grant


Well heres my 2 cents. You said you might mees up the engine if you try right? well if you dont try youll still mess it up what do you go to lose? Know what im sayin? lol sorry if this dont make any sence


Alpine

 

Glad to hear you're going to give it a try Grant!

Now, right off the bat I know you're going to need a torque wrench(head bolts) if you don't already have one. Don't worry about the high-dollar "click"-type. My engine blueprinting book says the cheaper "beam"type are actually more accurate, albeit harder to use. And that bottle brush hone.
A piston ring compressor and a ring installation tool. Just buy the cheapies, they'll get you by this one time. You can do without the ring installation tool but you have to be very careful.
You'll also need a shop manual or engine rebuild book (they're available right here at Motorhaven) for your procedures and torque values.I use the one called "How to rebuild your small-block Ford" myself. It is very detailed.

Don't let it scare you. The rod bearings will only go in one way, they have notches on them. As far as the oil pump goes, don't forget the driveshaft that goes up into the distributor. Just follow the procedures outlined in the book and you'll do fine. You'll be driving her again in no time.

I've probably left something out, anything else guys?

Chuck

 

Your engine is worn out! Don't mess around trying to save it, you're wasting your time (speaking from 40 years of experience) Buy a remanufactured engine, install it and close the hood!

 

I agree with 8-lugs. I had a piston bust in my old motor. Scarred the cylinder, bent the push rod, and no telling what all else. Took it out, bought a longblock w/ 15 mnth. warr. -- unlimited mileage for $829. Put my intake & exhaust mans., oil pan-- even had a new oil pump w/ every gasket you need to put it together. Brought them the core( their problem now!! ), put all the goodies on and shoved it in the truck. Done deal. I bought mine from Advanced Auto Parts. Recon is the company that remaned the motor. Good luck

`82 F-250 Custom** 4x4 ** 351W ** 39.5--15x16.5** SS- TSL`s ** 6" Lift ** Granny 4-speed**** If you can`t run with the BIG DOGS , stay on the porch!!!

 

Steve and Willie:
I wont argue that your ideas are easier and probably smarter in the long run, BUT
the engine is still running right now (and very well,he says) so obviously things haven't reached the melt-down=expensive stage yet.
Plus, I got the impression Grant wants to do things cheaper.
Both methods will be labor-intensive.

It really boils down to what he wants to do with the truck. Good suggestions all around, I suppose.Just a matter of which road suits him best.

Chuck

 

This is true! I guess you could always have the cylinder sleeved and have a new piston, rings, and whatever else you need. I may last a while longer. Sorry man, guess I got a little carried away!!

`82 F-250 Custom** 4x4 ** 351W ** 39.5--15x16.5** SS- TSL`s ** 6" Lift ** Granny 4-speed**** If you can`t run with the BIG DOGS , stay on the porch!!!

 

don't forget a ridge reamer to cleanup the top of the cylinder so you don't break your new rings

 

Great info,
The weather has dropped into the single digits so I am going to delay on the piston job untill the weather has a little less of a bite to it.
There is diffinetly a money crunch going on or I would have bought a better van.All in all my cheap purchase has been rich with lessons crossing through many fields of personal progress.
The generosity with your knowledge and time has given me a much better holiday. You Guys are great.
Thanks very much. When i get going i will most likely have more questions or at least keep you up to date with my progress.
Have a the best time ever with your family and friends.
Sincerly,
Grant

:-X12

 

Still in deep appreciation for all the feed back.
Steve and Wille, I have bit the bullet and taken the turn. Wish I could afford to drive it to the dump and start out on fresh ground. I got what your saying.
In the process of my engine getting worse and worse I was checking the junk yard just to see what they had available.
I trust this guy and asked him if he thought if I replaced the piston... ect ... would I simply blow another piston?, and the man asked me why I thought my piston broke in the first place?
Well .., Of Course, my motor is worn past the bone and likely to keep taking me to the task until I put it to rest.
I found a screaming 302 that is a 4 barrel for $700 in a Mustang and another 302 that only has 88,000 mles on it with 100 compression for $350, it is in a Lincon.
What do you think? It is hard to spend another dololar right now but want to protect my investment which is now about $1,200
The kid in me wants the 4 barrel but the practical pay the bills side of me is leaning towards the cheaper one. Dagone these tight times.

Hope everyone is having some great holy days....





Grant