I would really appreciate any advice or tips on particular trouble spots re-assembling a 1990 2.9l for a 5spd Ranger Xcab. I have a Chilton's, but if there's any experience or knowledge that might be special I'd appreciate it.

Everything's been machined, had the heads done, etc. Just ready to assemble long block. Thanks to all.

Robert

 

Hmmm.... I'll start from scratch. Have someone install the cam bearings, or if you know how to do this, then do it. From what I hear the 2.9L is the hardest to put cam bearings in.

When putting the pistons in, make sure the arrow on top faces the front of the motor.

Use lithium engine assembly lube on cylinder walls, bearings, etc..

User a caliper to make sure the machine shop didn't pull a quick one and took .010" off something. Always measure.

Watch out for where the rear main rides. I would reccomend getting a sleeve for this end of the crank. The machine shop will explain what I mean.

Make sure the cam is fully lubed and lifters are in place before putting on the heads. Use new heads bolts, always. Put a little oil on the threads to prevent over torquing.

Get an old distributer and create a tool to prime the engine with oil. Be sure to oil the oil pump before priming. Also make sure the oil pressure sender is in. Will shoot oil across the garage. Prime until you see oil coming out of the rocker assemblies.

I found that using silicone sealant where the timing cover and the last main attach to the block will prevent a small oil leak. Just use a little, throw on your gasket (I used rubber felpro) and put the oil pan on.

I lower intake is a little awkward, I don't have any suggestions on that. You just have to get it as perfect as you can.

I used copper sealant on my head gaskets. It seems to be doing well...

The hardest part of this is the rocker arm adjustment. I'm still getting mine right. I was told I need to find zero-lash. From what I hear, this is when they're just snug. Then turn 1 1/2 turns. I've heard of inline 6 200 taking .090" of over tightning, but don't quote me on that. Most of this I've just "heard".

The rest is easy, except make sure you're on the right stroke @ TDC when putting in the distributor. Put your finger over #1 cylinder util you feel air coming out. That means you're on the right stroke.

The rest should be faily simple. If you have any questions, let me know.

Pete

 

Oh I forgot #1. When timing it again, make sure you pull the spout out or else it'll advance the timing.

Might be a good idea to do a KOEO test, to sanity check everything.

Pete

 

Thanks for the tips. Is the sleeve for end play on the crank?

 

Not too sure, I think over the years the rear main will make a very small groove on the crank. When you put that new rear main in, it's new and wants to retain it's shape of the mold. Putting a sleeve in there makes the diameter a little bigger, causing a better seal against the rear main and the crank. It's a very thin sleeve, and from what I hear it's hard to install. you'll probably want the machine shop to do it. If it's wrong, it's their bad.

Pete

 

Replace the stock Ford heads with World heads. The stock Ford heads will crack.
Mark

 

The 1990 heads weren't too bad, just as long as he got them magnafluxed, he should be strait just as long as it never overheats. Sounds like buying new heads are the last thing on his mind , especially for $600 dollar heads. He's ready to build.

Pete

 

I thought the same 2 years, 30,000 miles ago. I rebuilt my 89 2.9l due to a cracked head/coolant in the crankcase/worn bearings. I had the other head magnafluxed and rebuilt that head since it was crack free. I continued and rebuilt the engine. Last weekend I tore it apart again since I was loosing coolant into the crankcase. The Ford head that magnafluxed good cracked. Don't waste time and money on the Ford heads.
Mark