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I have a 1994 Ford F150 2door extended cap and the door hinges are worn out. The doors drop when you open them and when you close them you have to slam them real hard to realine them. I went to a bodyshop to have an estimate to fix them and they said 160$ per hinge there are two hinges on each door. Thats a lot of money and any advie to fix it unexpensively is wanted.
Try the salvage yard first. You can do the swap yourself and save a lot of $'s. If you elect to make sure you allow for the electrical wiring for power windows/door locks and have a little help. We did a swap on an F-350 drivers door hinges as the wind blew it open and it hit a bollard at a gas station very hard and caused the door to be out of alignment. Used the open joists overhead and a soft cotton 1/2" rope to hold the door panel while working on it. Worked well.
Tex
If you go to your local auto parts store in their HELP accessory section part number 38410 is a replacement hinge pin and busings for upper or lower hinges on these trucks. I did the top hinge only on my driver side door and it took out 80% of the drop I was experiencing.
Originally Posted by from another reply I did
If you watch closely as you open the door if you see it drop when it comes off the striker on the door frame your hinges are probably worn. I did the replacement pin and bushings on the driver side upper hinge and it took out most of the drop/sag in mine. Any auto parts store that carries the "HELP" brand of parts their part number is 38410 for the pin/bushing kit, fits either side, upper or lower hinge. I used a small grinding wheel in a cordless drill (I don't own a Dremel) to grind off the top of the original hinge pin, supported the bottom of the door and drove out the pin and bushings. Installed new and it was done.
If I recall correctly around $5 per hinge.
Dave / Believer45
Last edited by believer45; Jan 1, 2005 at 01:28 PM.
you can get repair kits at the parts stores. they have new hinge pins and bushings. i did my dr door with a engine puller holding the door up. cut the old pins and drive out the bushings and put the new ones in. now mine is good as new, for less than 10 bucks.
Never thought to look for pin/bushing kit. Great info. Got the two hinges from salvage yard for $10.00 on a "you take 'em off deal". We have a very large yard about 25 miles away with around 65 Ford trucks in it. I keep looking at an '94 F-350 4x4 w/what used to be a 460 and E4OD in it, since been sold and the back half of a '96 Bronco in excellent shape and thinking "kit Centurion". The catch is it would be a Centurion Dually. I can get both frames/bodies for around $2,900 and the F-350 has all the rear axle, drive shaft items intact. There are sevaral TTB front set ups and I'd lay even money I could match ratios. Would just leave the engine/tranny and interior seating/appointment to do.
Sorry, off the subject on a lazy day at home.
Happy New Year, Tex
Thanks a million for your post. I replaced my hinge pin last night based on your advice and part # cost me all of $7 to fix my 'dropping door': Here's what I did in case someone else is considering this fix...
-Supported the door using a tie down attached to the garage door track from the top and a jack(with wood on top) from below
-I cut the old pin right down the middle using a thin, non-flexible cut-off circular wheel using my Dremel. I broke about 6 of them but they came in a pack of 20 I think.. Having a Petzl head light really helped
-Easily punched them (pins) out and sprayed all over with cleaner to remove metal shavings
-getting the Bushings out (the bushings are only on the door hinge) was a real PITA, so I just unbolted the door-side of the hinge and removed the hinge. It was much easier to remove them from the hinge while on my vice - they just popped right off. I wished I hadn't wasted 40 mins trying to remove the bushings while the hinge was still on the truck..
-Tapped new bushings in with a hammer (perfect fit)
-Put hinge back onto door and hand-screwed bolts about 1/2 way
-Greased and put new pin in while hinge was loose still.
-Tightened bolts into door.
-bad fit - didn't close very well.
-loosened bolts , then lifted door with jack
-Tightened bolts.
-Door closes like new now - no dropping..
thanks again for your info !
I thought this was also going to fix my door from 'bouncing' while going over bumps in the road but it still makes that irritating metal-to-metal noise. I have a feeling there's something that needs to be adjusted now on the latch/striker side of things but at least it closes really nicely now !!