My '66 has a 300-I6 from an 85 F-100 in it.

The carb has emissions stuff on it (between the carb and intake) that has been plugged up, turned off or otherwise decomissioned. I would like to take that piece off, since Arkansas does not require emissions testing and it's not being used anyway. But I'm concerned the carb might not function properly without it. There's a PCV line going to it, though, and I don't know what to do about that either (don't mind keeping it).

So what solutions do I have?

I don't mind purchasing a better carb...(it's not a Holley...not sure what brand, but it's a one-barrel).

The reason I'm asking is that the truck drives like there's a fuel-air mixture problem...I tried adjusting the mixture screw - was able to turn it all the way in with no effect on the engine....(?!?)....I've had troubles getting an idle and then keeping it. Sometimes it won't start with the choke out, sometimes it won't with the choke in. Sometimes it runs in, sometimes out. No consistency and every once in a while it will die in the middle of the road.

I've checked plugs and wires, timing, dwell, etc. All within normal operating specs....(though I haven't found any specific to that year engine yet...just went off others specs). I've replaced the starter now and I'm getting a much better start (it was old and worn out) but it's a guessing game as to where the choke needs to be in order for it to catch and fire up.

So, that leads me to the carb. If you guys have other ideas, please let me know. It's not a daily driver (yet) so I can work on it at my leisure.

Let me know if I've left out any important details.....


Dan

 

Wow! Small world. I have virtually the same truck. Performance wise that is. I have a 65 with a 75 300 six. No emissions crap at all but I have the screwy Autolite 1100 Loadomatic carb to deal with. Kind of like you I can't seem to put a finger on the issues. Everything will be fine for a long time and suddenly the monster is back. I even have what is supposed to be the best carb for the 300 a Carter YF. It is sitting on the shelf because the Autolite started doing fairly well. There are a few agravating issues with the Carter changeover that keep me from jumping on the swap. Mainly the choke requires rigging and you cant use the stock oil bath air filter. I don't like the chrome cheapies and the crappy plastic adapters required to make them work. Finding a stock 68-69 dry filter housing will be acceptable. If I can find one.

As far as your truck goes I would change the gas filter/s before changing carbs. It is also possible to remove the airhorn of the carb and check for excessive sediment. Loosen all the screws and tap around on the top with a rubber mallet or whatever else you have that is not too destructive. This will work loose the gasket so you wont tear it. You can check the float level while your in there if you have the specs. Most of the time the float level will be OK unless altered by someone or bent by dropping or setting it down the wrong way. This is a poor mans carb overhaul as dirt is the main cause of carb problems. I have cleaned out a sediment bowl and never had another problem out of quite a few carbs. Also if you get another carb get a pre emissions Carter YF.

 

First, find out what carb you have! Probably a Carter YF non-feedback, but wasn't the 85 a feedback carb?
Second do a vacuum check - spray some carb cleaner at different points around the carb and intake manifold while the engine is running. If the idle changes, you've got a vacuum leak.
Third - has the exhaust manifold been swapped? Headers don't have the heat riser, so you could have a icing problem. I've never seen this problem, but I do know it can happen.

My first guess is vacuum leak since you have a bunch of emmision holes plugged. I've been told the spacer block (between the carb and intake) can be pulled off bigger trucks that didn't require emmisions. F-350 and up - shouldn't have an EGR valve or any other extra holes in it. I need to go get one myself.

Since you do have a newer 300 I6, the 'Inline 6 Forum' guys may be more helpful with figuring out what carb you have.

 

This is a buy it now on ebay -- it would be correct I think for a 67-69 300. Mr. Gasket makes a passable air cleaner that fits, though it does have a small ring of plastic at the bottom -- and I am not talking about the large adaptor ring that Mr. Gasket makes -- that I agree is too flimsy. See my web page for the part numbers at Summit if you want that aircleaner.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=34198

The choke cable bracket requires a little working over, but doable. Here is my web site page about carter YF swap -- very crude, but information and pics there.

http://www.hermannsonline.com/f100/carteryf/

 

ok....I got some pics. Here we go...


First pic:


Engine bay - from passenger's side








Engine bay - from driver's side







Carb pic - passenger's side




Note:

1 = the fuel/air mixture screw that can be turned in all the way without affecting performance.

2 = the "clamped off" EGR (I'm assuming) valve.

3 = the air horn vaccuum connection that has no vaccuum.




Carb pic 2 - from the grill (front)







Carb pic 3 - from the driver's side







sorry guys....I ran out this evening in my shorts and t-shirt to take these quick pics....didn't want to fool with the oil-bath air cleaner. Too messy and hard to get back on.

If needed, I can take some pics with it off. I was hoping this would be good enough though, to maybe help me identify it.




Also, where can I find the engine tag? (to see what year this engine really is....just taking the seller's word when he told me it was out of an '85)

 

Well, that carb is NOT an Autolite 1101 or Carter YF. I am thinking its a Holley 1940, which was a standard replacement carb sold by ford, and installed by ford, as replacement for 1101 carbs (and perhaps YF Carters as well). I doubt that carb ever was intended to be mounted on that EGR port mechanism.

The engine clearly has been externally repainted. The valve cover looks to be from a later 300, so it probably is a 300 all right. The intake also has the EGR port. The whole EGR system seems to have been disabled -- biggest concern in my mind is whether the crimped off EGR tube is causing a vacuum leak. I don't think the unconnected vacuum port matters much, but I would cap it off with a plug.

There is NO GOOD external way to prove that that engine is a 300 versus 240. For now, who cares. Its problely a 300, but a 240 will drag you around quite nicely if its running right.

The exhaust mainifold appears stock -- does the shaft/spring on the exhaust gas "flapper" move? They tend to get stuck in the open position, which results in too much heat to the base of the carb. And it impeads the exhaust flow a little too (already pretty poor from the stock manifold).

You have some issues to deal with. The EGR system is not worth re-creating, that's for sure. As it stands now, its just cluttering up things and creating possible vacuum leaks. But there is a hole under the EGR plate, in the intake manifold. You cannot just bolt the carb directly onto the intake. I think that someone handy with a torch could easily braze a plug into the hole, assuming you really wanted to keep the stock log.

If you are not into makeing this all original, I would go out and get an offenhauser intake and put a small 2 or 4 bbl carb on there. And, while you are at it, get some EFI exhaust "headers" from a 87-96 truck. That all will liven things up.

If you want orgininal -- well then you start looking for an intake log without the EGR port and an Autolite 1101 carb. Needs to be one that does not have loadomatic setup (spark advance valve). Do a search on that all if it is the way you want to go. And the distributor on there is also certainly NOT from an 85. I cannot tell from external appearances whether it is the correct dizzy for a 66 with a 300 or not, but it could be.

Finally, get rid of that Fram oil filter at your next oil change. They are the worst filters out there these days.

I am glad that is not my mess to deal with -- but you should be happy -- there are several other users here who have dealt with such problems already or are dealing with them. That's probably a good engine there, just waiting for the carburation and exhaust to work correctly. I learned all this slowly over about 18 months of a restoration. You can keep coming here for advice and you'll keep getting it. I am almost certain its worth more than you are paying for it!!!!!! (perhaps quite a bit more, honestly!)

 

I know my old Fe engines always had an ID tag mounted on the coil. I don't know about the sixes. Mine does not have one. You can at least tell what year the engine is by looking on the passenger side of the block. Toward the rear there is a number raised from the block. If yours is an 85 the # should begin with something like E5TE. Mine is a 75 as it is numbered D5TE. Ford part #s use the first letter as the decade. The second digit is the year of the decade. I am told the TE signifies truck engine. May be wrong on that one.

Some advice, don't stay SO original that you use an Autolite 1100 series carb. If I wanted to maintain most of my originality I would get a 68 or so intake with a period Carter YF. By doing that you always have the option of bolting on an Autolite since they both have the same base. If you ever had a show truck that would be a big deal. I would drive to the show with the Carter and switch it out on the spot for the useless original. The later YFs had a similar but larger base size so the later manifolds would hinder the convertable option I have mentioned. Ultimately the 300 really needs a two barrell. I have never understood why they put single barrells on engines with more cubic inches than a few V8's. I bet thats why they get such awful gas mileage. By design they are always kind of choked out. Kind of like stuffing a rag in your mouth and going for a jog. Get my drift?

 

Lets not forget the biggest factor in how a job gets done - MONEY! If you've got the funds, go for cdherman's suggestion: more barrels and different manifolds. If you're on a real tight budget, or just want to get it going for now, make sure you don't have vacuum leaks. #2 looks like a very good place to start checking.

the idle mix screw should be turned all the way in, then backed off 1.5 turns, but won't make much of a diffence if your vacuum is screwed up.

Usually a carb will have a plate on one of the bowl screws unless someone has taken it off. Doesn't really look like that carb has been rebuilt though.

 

I believe that the #2 fitting on the underneath side of the EGR port spacer is some sort of hydraulic or large flare pipe fitting. Some thread, somewhere, talked about plugging it up with a proper cap. Fundimentally, you can leave that aluminum spacer block from the EGR on there, so long as there are no leaks. I would really try to ditch the carb that you have on there though. As far as I can tell, the only decent 1 bbl option is a carter YF. Clifford DOES make a 1 bbl to 2 bbl adapator for like $30, but you gotta ask yourself - why not just replace the whole intake with an offy for $190 from summit.

If money is really tight, then get the current setup to work (fix vacuum leaks, maybe rebuild carb) and save $$$ till you can afford to do it right. Course, once its running decent with the current jery rigged mess, it won't bother you so much any more.

 

That's the hole I dug for myself! Thing is, mine runs OK, but not great and I've kinda moved on to other project - new garage, 63 f100, actually finishing a few other unfinished projects, a home theater system......I'll get back to it someday...

 

thanks for the good advice.

FWIW, this truck is not for show, but for performance. Eventually, I'll be swapping out the entire bottom end for 76-79 parts...ie, PS, PB, disk brakes, better suspensions, differentials, etc. (maybe 4wd too)

I also plan on swapping in a 390 and a C6. I already have both - but not "ready to go" yet.

So, I'd love to put headers on this 300 (and maybe I will) but whatever I put in this engine, I'll have to eat...there's no way I'll be able to get the $$ back when I sell the engine.

It does start up well and run ok too. But, like I said, I have to constantly fight the choke.

I think you guys have hit on something - that I'm getting a vaccuum leak.

If I could get headers, an intake and carb for cheap, I'd do it. Otherwise, I'd prefer to put the money toward finishing up my 390, etc.

So, I guess the simplest would be to just replace the carb with another used 1bbl carb (and kick the oil-bath filter too).


Best carb is the Carter then? Any carter? There have been some on ebay - but it's hard to tell which one would be best. If possible, I'd prefer an electric choke.

 

for example = would this one work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7945107443


or this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7945250486

 

I could not see your links but as I have suggested a late 60's early 70's Carter YF would be the best choice in a bolt on. Its kind of funny that the folks at Pony Carbs have the audacity to tell me that I need to stick with an Autolite carb that even Ford would not touch under warranty and that the Carter is known to be problematic and would be a bad choice. I guess they thought I might buy something from them if I stuck with their beloved craperators. Dont worry though, we are not here to make a sale, just to share ideas, sound advice, and the love of our trucks. Go with the early Carter YF..

 

Both the carbs you listed could be made to work, but the auto chokes also take a warm air tube, so called environmental choke. So hooking up an auto choke is not always as simple as it may sound.

HOWEVER, if you are needing to choke all the time, that is a sign that you have a vacuum leak. And I doubt it is in you carb. I would get a can of brake cleaner and carefully spray around all your likely places (intake to heads, base of carb, all around that egr gizmo, etc etc.) I bet you find there is a leak that you can fix and make her run a lot better.

If you plan on scraping the whole engine, then try to make the old set up work first. Good chance you can get by with minimal $$.

 

I've heard that before....but someone said use carb cleaner......what does it do? Does it plug a leak temporarily? Does it make the engine rev?