Going to paint the wife's car this spring, it'll be my first. Going to take my time and prep and prep. Figure I can do a pretty good job if I follow all the instructions and do everything I'm supposed to do, but I'm lost when it comes to the paint gun. What one do I buy? Do I need more than one? I'll be putting down base clear. I want something good - please advise.

Thanks

 

First off make sure your werk area is CLEAN lay tarps on the ground if you have to. Get a top feed HVLP I got a sweet one from harbour freight for <$60 works off of a 50 psi compressor and uses like 15 psi. great sprayer. Also Take yer time

 

Well that sounds like a really good price, but do they get better the more I pay? If 60.00 is good will 100.00 or 200.00 be better?

 

On the other end of the scale is a SAATA digital @500.
Most often a harbor freight is considered a primer gun.
For top coat and color for everyday use by pros you
will see guns 200 and up. Each painter has
his favorite brand. This question is asked often and
answered extensively in the archives.

 

Well Bossind, what did you come up with to use?? And alsowanted to ask Ford Pilot if
buying a Harbor Frt. gun for the etch primer,opoxy primer,2k surfacer then maybe a $100 gun for the paint and clear coats. An auto paint suppy store told me I should buy this $169.99 dollar Nesco kit -870HVLP gun ,1.4,1.7and 20mm nozzle sets.Comes with alum cup,nylon cup(with adapter),air regulater with gauge,small cupadapter,brush kit.They said this would be all I need.What do you think??

 

This may be a little late to chime in too but I do a lot of work on classic cars (am currently doing a frame off resto on a Trans Am Pace Car) and I have several guns including that HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. That gun is fine for primer and adequate for the basecoat but don't use it with clear. You'll end up with so much orange peel that you'll spend the next week wetsanding and polishing it down smooth again.

I also have a Sata Jet and a Devilbiss Finishline III HVLP gravity feed gun. Sata is top of the line (I think mine was $449 but you can spend more than that depending on the model) but my Finishline III sprays just as well and I think you can buy them now for less than $200. I bought mine when the "III" just came out and they were a little more then.

One of the best places to shop for sprayguns is www.spraygundepot.com . They have a huge selection at excellent prices.

Good luck!

 

Dragula says it all...he has good advice.

It is kind of hard to give a simple answer to the
what kind of gun should I buy question. There are
just a awfull lot of variables. Some of these are not
apparent when starting out. Here are a couple:

1.How many cars are you going to paint.
2.Are you going to be using the gun often.
3.What type of paint will you be using.
4.What is the volume and quality of
your air system.
5 Will your air be oil and water filtered.
6. How easy is the gun to clean.
7. What materials are the spray tip
and needle made out of and how
long will the last in the harsh paint
environement.
8.What are the seals made out of how
long will the last.
9. How easy are the gun adjustments
as to pattern etc to manipulate.
10.Will the gun barf, dribble of spit if
you pull or step on the air hose.
11.Is the atomization good and pure
for the paints you will be using.
12.Does the gun have a good feel
and balance no matter how much
or little paint in the cup.
13.How durable is the gun if dropped.
14.In a spraying condition how much
feel and sensitivity will the gun give.
15.With the gun can you get in the "zone"
using your gun as an extention of
your creative mind.
16.If you have a bad result will you be
able to clearly rule out gun problems.
17.Is there factory support for seals
and parts.
18.Do you take pride in the quality of
your tools.

I am sure 90 percent of guys start out with a harbor freight
type gun and then as their painting skills and experience
grow start moving up the gun quality ladder. The main
thing is get what you can and start laying down paint..
it is tons of fun.

Hope this helps!

 

Sixgunkelley...I am not familiar with nesco but your package
sounds o.k. except that you probably do not need a 20mm
tip.

 

Hey guys, Thank you for takeing the time to help the unexperienced headed in forward motion.First-timers need all the advice we can get .I'm doing a 78 ext cab 4x4;not trying to go for showroom but want something that people wont laugh at when i tell them I did that.If it does turn out ok , i may do my 86 but i'm not lookin to get in the bussines so I think "meet you in the middle"grade tools will work for me.I'm gonna try and go for a 7HP 60 GaL 135PSI compressor. Just wanted to make known all help is appreciated because i'm sure i'll be back
PS Also while i'm here.. do I need 2 guns even if i use 2 different tips or nozzles on 1 gun if i clean it out real good after opoxy +primers or is there still a high risk for orange peel??

 

You can do fine with one gun. Orange peel comes from
not getting enough paint on..or shooting "to dry".
When most folks start out they shy away from
laying down correct amount of paint as they are
worried about "runs". The fine line you walk
is part of the art of painting..experience is a good
teacher. With just a little effort guns clean up
pretty well so you can shoot primer, sealer and
varied colors through the same gun. The pros tend
to save their best gun or guns for top coat or clear
coat as they are the ones you can not do much about
once they are sprayed out. Here are a couple
of tips:

1.Try to stay with one system i.e. all ppg or sikkens or
martin senor etc. All the majors make good paint.
2.Get ahold of the tech sheets for each product and
follow to the letter.
3.Pay close attention to temp of paint, panel or truck/car
temp and ambient temp.
4.Make sure air is de-oiled and de-watered.
5. Mix paint exactly how tech sheets say (ratio)
6.When shooting.. a.keep gun perpendicular to panel
b.keep gun 6 to 8 inches from panel
c.move at about one and one-half
feet per second
d. about one-third overlap on strokes
7.Get proper masking tape and learn proper masking
8.Droop your airhose over your neck to keep it
out of your pretty new painted wet panel.
9.Get a helper to feed you airhose and spot dry spots.
10.Detergent wash degrease twice and tag rag and use clean
lintless towels

Good Luck!

 

Next time your on the Northside, check our APM near King Performance. The have a gravity fed spray gun that looks really nice. They also have all sorts of automotive paint for good prices. I bought some of their enamel paint for my last truck, and it turned out pretty well.

As far as painting goes I learned a couple of tricks. First, the gun has two stages. Press the trigger lightly, and the air will be "cued" up into the gun. Press it harder and the paint comes out. I found that if I pressed the trigger all the way it would splatter onto the vehicle. So as I went back and forth, I would stop the paint as I reached the apex of my sweep, but keep the air cued in the line.

Keep constant motion, following the lines of the vehicle. While I forget the best distance for the nozzle to be, dont get too close or you will get runs, dont get too far away or the paint will look faded.

If you want it to look good, but dont want to go overboard, I would recommend that if you were to sand the crap out of anything it would be the final primer coat, and a good wet sand of the final paint coat to avoid that "orange peel" look.

Finally, get some good quality clear, some of the cheaper stuff yellows over time.

I may be saying things that you already know, but I thought I may contribute in some small way.

-Matt

 

I'm about to get my "feet wet", too.
Once again, we learn that experience is the best teacher.
This is all great advice; thanks for the tips, guys.

Robb