When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I finally got some decent weather and started stripping down my D44. I got one side completely apart and started on the other where I hit a (hopefully) minor snag.
So on one side I took off the outer bearing retainer nut and looking in there there's a really weird looking keyed washer. Rather than just the ring with holes in it to lock the inner nut in place, it's the holey ring with 4 tabs sticking out, one every 90*. I reached in there with a pair of pliers to pull it out and it will sorta wiggle, but won't come out.
Is it any different getting this lock washer out from the other kind, or is it just stuck in there requiring a little more "persuasion"?
haven't seen one of those in years on a ford, but no tricks it's just bieng stuck with the grease kinda like your tires in mud creating a suction, if you can get a hook behind one of the tabs, and break that suction should come right out.
no tricks...just pull harader and wiggle more. for some reason it is just stucvk in there. i had to get 2 clawed screw drivers in there behind it and really pull pretty hard to get one of mine out, but it did come out!
My F250 has one like your describing on one side, and a round one on the other.. go figure.
mostly, a needle nose will get mine out. The inner nut has probably slipped and the pin is tight in the washer; if it is, see if you can tap (or use the hub socket) to take the bind off of the washer..
bad come to worse, use a couple pieces of coat hanger with a hook on the end.
Got it sorted out, grabbed one of the tabs with a pair of battery pliers and stuck a pair of needle nose in a hole opposite and just pulled with all I had. Finally popped loose.
On the other side it was a plain ol' lock washer, when it goes back together I'm using those since 1) I've never had one of those stuck like this and 2) I have a set of the normal ones, but not a set of the tabbed ones.
So that means I have my 44 totally stripped and cleaned, now all I have to do is decide to start spending money
Part that really surprised me were the 4 bolts in each radius arm, 6 came out with no fuss at all, the other two came out with a little heat persuasion. None snapped. Then the 2 bolts that hold the coil seat to the radius arm, 2 came right out, but two of them I'm going to have to drill and tap. I was expecting almost all of them to break in the removal process, so only having to work two over was a big plus.
don't drill and tap unless absolutly needed, use the welding trick, if hte bolts broke off even close to flush just weld a nut onto whats left, and screw them out works great the heat loosens them, and the nut gives you somthing to get a wrench on. as far as the radius arm bolts I have never had one of those break but I do spray it down with panther youknowwhat first.
I thought Pro was the old geezer on here. I've never been into panther pee myself because its so difficult to get them to cooperate and put it in the bottle.
I had then glowing red with a rose bud and a pair of vice grips and they both just sat there and stared at me. I'll try welding the nut on and then heat it with a torch so I have something a little more solid to twist from, but i don't have much confidence with the amount of a fight they've been putting up Both snapped where the head meets the shank, so i have agood 1/2" to work with on both.
you do know you have to heat the area around the broken bolt-
if you just heat the bolt, it'll turn. you have to get the heat around it to expand. that is how I did my exhaust manifold studs. watch that you don't ruin the jaw on your visegrips.. (ooops)
I know to heat the area around it, that's how the radius arm bolts came out. Guess I just tried to take a short cut typing or something. Oh well. I'll zap some on tomorrow and drop in with an update.
I have had good luck welding nuts onto the bolts like monsterbaby said to do, sometimes it takes 3 or 4 times but I dont think I have ever had to drill and tap a bolt i could weld too.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.