Anyone ever taken the dashboard out of a 56? Any difficulties, tricks, hidden fasteners? How long did it take? I'm doing a full rewire and installing hanging pedals and foot pedal operated emergency brake mechanism and it would be a lot easier to do all that if I didn't have to hang upside down under the dash through it all. Also need to take out some dents, fill some unused switch holes and repaint it while it's out. I notice that on mine the curved end extensions are welded to the cowl and the defrost deflector is tacked to the top of the dash. Is this SOP or a previous owner added "feature"?

 

Ax - As best I can tell, the curved extensions are welded. I can't find any fasteners attaching them.
Tacking the defrost deflector on yours is a custom added feature. The defrost delector on mine is attached with screws into tapped tabs coming out of the dash. A total of 6 screws have to come out in order to remove the deflector so that the two nuts each can be removed holding the defrost ducts that come up under the dash.
Like you, I have work I'd like to do to the dash. The PO honked it up pretty well by adding a blanking plate with the gages to cover the multitude of radio and gage holes added over the truck's other incarnations.
A thread a few months ago asked the same question about removing the dash and the concensus was - don't try it. Apparently it is all welded in and so structural to the cab cowl, that removing it lets everything take off out of shape. At the minimum, temporary bracing would need to be added before cutting out the dash.

 

oh yea id say if you really wanted to brace the hell out of the whole cab

 

AX, Randy is right...the whole thing is welded in. Removing the gauge cluster, seats and heater gives you lots of room, though. I had my windshield out, too, which actually makes it roomier to work on...especially removing the defoster outlets underneath.
Norb

 

Thanks! I was surprised to hear it isn't bolted in since MF sells a fiberglass replacement, maybe it's just a cover? Guess the seats will be coming out. They are power captains chairs so a little more work to remove. At least it's a panel so my feet will have a place to go. I'm getting a little too old to twist up like a pretzel for very long...

 

AX, Yup, I been there , done it. Advice ?? Don't go there. I actually did it on a spare cab just to see what would happen and to answer the last thread asking same. And I needed the speedo hump and Nixer got the lid. Everything is welded, some areas are double steel, and there are lots of hidden spot welds. And then the cab twists real bad as soon as a few welds start coming off. It appears that the dash IS a major structural component as it holds the cab straight. I put a pic of my dash in gallery. I saw the FG cover at a swap meet in November and it is to be used as an overlay and glassed in. Piece of S*** IMO. I wired a 55 with the seat and column out and put a mat on the floor. Not that bad really. Good luck AX

 

I don't expect the wiring to be that big an issue since there isn't anything to wire in the dash itself except the instrument cluster, ignition wipers and light switches. But I am changing the hanging clutch and floor brake pedal to all suspended pedals with a firewall mounted PB master cylinder and clutch master cylinder as well as a foot pedal operated emergency brake (my wife has a hard time using the armstrong emergency brake handle with her carpal tunnel syndrome) so I expect to be doing a lot of in and out measuring and drilling under there. Might as well bite the bullet and pull the seat out first, just was hoping I could leave it in to test locations for everything.

 

AX, I helped on a like issue on the 55. The e-brake is from a 79 T-Bird with a vacuum release. We just bought 4 lbs of clay and "stuck" it to the lower corner with the seat in and adjusted for driver. Then the E-Brake assembly can be moved around easy and slowly without a dozen vice-grips rigged and re-rigged. Easiest thing I ever learned for positioning things. Cleans up well too. Wish I had pics of this, it looked hilarious. I will do same on my 56 and post. I am using a unit from a later Lincoln.

 

I got an ebrake pedal assembly and pull release out of a jeep on ebay for 10.00 that I plan on using. Clay is an interesting idea. I use fun tac here at work for dummying up jewelry.

 

Might as well bite the bullet and pull the seat out first, just was hoping I could leave it in to test locations for everything.[/QUOTE]
As far as seat location goes, you sure have an advantage with a panel truck, Chuck! You can put that baby wherever you want and have plenty of legroom. I'm only 5'7" and I don't know how a guy 6' or better can drive a 56 comfortably...tank inside or not. I saw in one of the truck mags where a guy added 6" to the back of his cab.

Sorry for getting off your dash topic .....
Norb

 

AX- I completely rewired my whole 56. I removed the dash instruments and glove box which really gave me quite a bit of room to work. The wiring is basically straightforward which also makes it nice. I didn't need to remove my seats either. I did remove the steering wheel which really made a difference. As for the switch holes and dash itself. Its easier to repair while in the car. Kinda like doing body work.

 

Find the pedals and the metal bracket that holds them out of a 79 Ford truck. Booster, bracket, and pedals all work excellent.

 

I have a few issues I'm dealing with that are a little different than most: First I'm 6'2" 260#, my wife is 5'5" 120# with a small frame, we will both be driving the truck long distances since it is to be our tow vehicle for a 24' enclosed trailer for our race car that we race all over the eastern 1/2 of the country on weekends. We average ~ 30K miles of travel a season in 4-20 hrs straight of mostly interstate driving to reach an event. First and foremost it MUST be comfortable to drive for 4 hrs non-stop between gas stops/driver swaps. It must have all the creature comforts possible, cruise, P windows, P door locks/alarm, good sounding stereo with XM radio, tilt wheel, electronic trailer brake controller, AC, PB (disc front), PS, so there will be a LOT of wires! We chose this 56 panel for it's body condition but also for the fresh pro rebuilt SBC 400, and the BW T-56 6 speed (double OD) close ratio manual trans out of a 93 LT-1 Camaro, and the 3.70 9" rear which is perfect for trailer towing. The builder who installed the drive train used a firewall mounted ugly clutch MC from ? and an unboosted new brake MC under the floor, so I have a suspended clutch pedal and a thru floor brake pedal with leg powered front discs currently. The clutch pedal throw and MC do not quite match what the slave cylinder needs either. To make a long story longer I am ripping out both pedals and mismatched MCs and replacing them with the pedal assmbly out of a 93 Camaro that had the same six speed tranny along with an OEM original clutch MC assembly, a 7" SS dual diaphram PB booster and matching MC. I decided to go with this pedal assembly because it has the proper mounts for both the brake and clutch MC (an odd angled black plastic covered piece with remote rez) and all three pedals (gas too) are mounted on the same bracket, so will all end up in the correct position to each other.
To top it all off I am a masters degreed jewelry designer who has been crafting my own fine jewelry for 28 years, an **** retentive perfectionist and everything needs to LOOK as good as it performs. Oh yah, I don't yet have my garage/shop built so I work outside. Stay tuned!

 

Based on your wife's size, is it too late to consider the adustable pedal assembly?? I am seeing more of the 03-04 exploder and other in the wrecking yards. I drove the 04 days ago and it seems real slick and it fits my 5'2" 115 lb wife. I recalled all the ( Both,[auto] ) pedals. Had 2 memory settings.

 

The seats on our truck are captains chair type and the driver's side is 6 way power. The F-B adjustment has exceptional range to it. I'm using the steeringwheel to pedal distance of our Celica that we AX as a reference, and the truck's distance happens to be exactly the same with the new pedals and new tilt steering column/wheel we're putting in, so I think everything will be good. Thanks for the suggestions tho!
We're taking a 4 day weekend off starting tomorrow. The weather is supposed to be beautiful: 60s-70s no rain so we're planning to pull the seats out first thing tomorrow and have at it. I'll try to remember to take pictures as we go.