excuse me

I dont know how to use this site yet and I hope this isnt rude? you seem to know things that might be able to help me. and I couldnt figure out how to just ask a question as of yet on a new post.

I have a 1994 4.9l f-150 4x4 duel tanks with a no spark. I used easyautodiagnostic.com to trouble shot and was able to get my truck started again after replacing coil, dist cap and rotor, new wires and plugs and the stator- pip- pickup coil or whatever you wanna call the thing in the distributor. I dont think it was bad to start with but I replaced it because I didnt find the web site soon nuff.

background is like this. I ran out of gas and was able to restart and drove couple hundred feet after putting 10 gallons in and sitting for bout an hour. had to sit over night and was able to drive it a couple of miles and since I had never seen high pressure fuel lines before I was heading home to change filter with the tool for high pressure lines and the filter when it dies again. so I figured out how to change the fuel filter on the side of the road but still had to tow it home. this is when I noticed the crack at the top of the coil and then thats when I started to do what I did know about and changed coil. followed the vauge books chilton and haynes put out before i found the web site that made it eazyier to understand. but after putting distibutor back i had it started. runnng ruff and no power so went to set timeing and when pulled spout I returned to no spark situation again. \ now I have taken my ignition module off three time and takein it to autoparts store and everytime it has past their test. I have the led light flashing at ign module while cranking but not a spark. what the problem is I cant figure out. if the ign mod test says its good at store but test to troubleshoot on truck says it the ign mod? what could be up with this situation.
like i said me and my son found the first to be the coil then the dist cap or rotor but change plugs and wires anyways and through me misreading something the stator was changed. we had it started after those changes and the spout was pulled i have not got spark again.
i do have proper volts to everthing in case you was wondering
i used multi meter, test light, led light and basic wrenchs. i am ok mechanically but can get lost if you dont dummy down enuff.
please help me
i miss driving my truck

 

First things first, I'm going to see if I can get a Mod to move this to your own thread.
If you look at the top left, down from where it says forum,on your page, you will see usercp. That will get you back to all the threads you post in.
If it is not there, hit the forum button, and scroll down to 87-96 section, it will be there

Now, towards your problem, you need to find TDC (top dead center) as I described earlier in the post you quoted.
You find TDC, then take the cap off the distributer, and see where the rotor is pointing.

That is #1. Put the cap back on, and put a wire on #1 tower, and put it to #1 plug, the one closest to the radiator
Working clock wise, the next wire in the dist cap will be#5. the other end of the wire goes to #5 plug. continue as the following,
firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. get that correct, and we'll see what you have from there

 

Moved to new thread

 

Thanks George!

 

thank you I hope I can help you sometime too.
ok I rotated no1 piston up on compression stroke to find tdc. put dist in so rotor is facing 1 on dist cap which is towards drivers tire and have all the wires in correct placement. I have the store bought spark tester and tested all the plug wires, coil wire, coil itself and no spark. I have 12v at coil with key on, actually lil less but I charged battery so I can crank it so i will have juice. I had helper crank over to see if test light would blink on coil and it didnt. (which back before I tried to set timing it was blinking.) I made an led test light which I hooked up to no6 on ignition module and I was lighted until helper cranked on it and it blinked. according to the test it is saying the ignition module is bad. I took the ignition module to O'reillys and now this is the third time I had it in there it still is testing good. I checked the wires that plug to it an it does ohm out from the stator to the ignition module so no broken wire.
new parts are these - plugs, plug wires, coil, distributor cap, rotor, and stator inside distributor. I used dialectic grease and cleaner.
I dont know what this means but before I came back in I checked the spout with ohm meter and I ohms out.I was reading on some research the
ECM uses PIP to generate the SAW. This is routed thru the SPOUT. If this gets shorted or open NO SPARK. I looked up SPOUT means spark output connector, and SAW means spark angle word; but havent a clue what that means. Am not sure what the ECM is either. wish I could take pictures of these parts so others with simular problems could see.
thanks for the response

 

You have a fender mounted module, correct?
What color, grey or black?

Another thought, in the power center under the hood, with key on, check all the mega fuses for power.

Do you hear the fuel pump charge when you first turn the key on? Both tanks?

 

1 - yes drivers side fender mounted and black ignition module. the spout has got the pinkish wires comeing out of the ignition module.
2 - fuel pump kicks on on front but since I have purchased the truck the rear tank has not worked; well it doesnt pump or kick on but the gauge still works on it; the front tank has never giving me a problem except for the fuel gauge is a liar; which is why I ran outta gas. I was gettin 13mpg average but I did some heavy hauling and lost track of fuel amount and well, ran it dry. Just so ya know, the front tank leaks when I fill it so I only fill it with enough to get it like 7/8's and was planning on fixin that but never did.
3 - I dont know how to check mega fuses other than look at them. I took my Model DM-301 multimeter and was able to see if they had voltage but other than that, I am novice. meter has dc v, ac v, dc a, and of course ohms, and some 10A position and another with an arrowhead pointed to the right with a verticle slash thru it. If you tell me how to, I am sure I can learn.
This is my transportation right now and I am still enjoying the learning process. But!! I need it running. I have 3 other ford trucks that were supposed to be the fixer upper projects, not my main ride.

 

I know the feeling.
Ok you see the mega fuse has 2 metal prongs sticking up on both ends?
check from ground on one side of the meter, to one of the prongs. see if you have currant.
check the other side, if you have currant, the fuse is good. if not, replace it. The key needs to be in run on some of these

here's a picture of the fuse




the spade part is down.


When you bought your new distributor, did you tell the parts guy it was for a black module?
A black module will not work on a distributer designed for a grey module, and vice versa.
Could very well be if your fuses are good, you have the wrong distributor.

Modules are expensive, but it would be interesting to try switching one out.
What years are your other trucks?

 

i didnt buy a new distributor, it the same one. New distributor cap, rotor and the stator inside also called pip. (this distributor has the flat spot for the grey ignition module) but it was running even after I put the new pickup module inside. was the SPOUT supposed to show ohms when I test the prongs when it is unplugged?
will have to wait till tomorrow to look at mega fuse because its raining. pic wouldnt load up for some reason but it that right next to battery?
I was looking at it today but never tested it cuz didnt know how.
thanks again

 

Yes, the truck still runs, the spout only allows the computer to use base timing when it is out. Does the truck start if you plug the spout back in?

do you know how to post pictures? I would like to see some pictures of your distributor, I'm unsure what you have. Early model distributors( pre 92) don't work
with late model engines (after 92)

 

for some reason I have been trying to figure out how to set up a garage so I can post pictures and it seems I can do neither because I have tried for the last hour now. this is almost as frustrating as working on electricity in the rain.

 

For picture help, try the instructions here,,, User Gallery & Picture Display Help - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

I appreciate all your help. So this weekend after church it was a good day to work on truck with helper again. I decided to start all over again. first I took my spark tester and hooked it up to another engine, my 302 lincoln that has been sitting for a few years because it will be a project for my sons and I. I found out that my spark tester HEI does work. so went to 94 green 4x4 and started to do the no spark test again.
No spark plug wires, no spark coil wire, no spark coil, so testing the power to coil I just happened to notice when my son was testing the cranking test to see if my light would blink that my truck decided to kick over. Hum, me starting to think it is possessed because that made no since. I have looked those wires over 30 times and looked in other spot for a broken wire on the circuit; so the chances a broken wire is right there is NOWAY! but because it happened right there in front of me I couldnt ignore it. Sure enuff! broken wire; right on the power source of the coil. ARGGGH! I have looked that whole truck over and over and over and if it is this wire right here so easy to get to; so easy to fix; well I may just flip out! but I DidNot flip out. Enstead I fixed the wire with my soldering iron and the truck started. lol Really!
I was able to ajust the timing enuff to get truck up to running temp so I could use my code reader and got a 522 which says it wasnt in neutral during the test which it was so now thats where I am at.
truck is started. yeehaw. now I need to time it. What do you know about the code?
also I took pics of the distributor and posted them but do not see how to post more pic's of like the other parts I was wanting to share.
hope your had a good weekend

 

Don't worry about that code for nowm, in 6o0 key cycles, it will go away.

Set the timing with the spout disconnected.
Look on the header panel, or the bottom of the hood, or air cleaner, somewhere you will find a emissions label, and it will have what your timing is to be set at.
My guess, 10* btc, but check the lable to be sure

2 things on the pictures.
You can use a host site like Photobucket.com to load the pictures into. It's free

Load the pictures, then you can put the pictures in your posts by using the ING code.

You can also become a fte sponsor, which is $20 per year, and that will allow you to use the pictures from your computer as an attachment. There are other benefits, like all the adds on the page disappear

I'm not being a salesman here, just telling you options

Thanks for letting us know you resolved your problem. We are glad to help

 

Thanks for being helpful. I have been on other sites and sometimes the only people who respond are just wanting to get the post count up or something. I like this one. I need to go deer hunting so I need my trucks.
notice I said need to go deer hunting, not want. Oh yeah before I log this why is all the post you make on another thread being told to me by an email? I dont remember clicking anything saying I wanted it and now I am gettin emails from when your friends post on it. I think its more than one thread now. sorry for blabbing on