engine swap
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engine swap
Ok I have a friend that has a 3.0L engine from a ford ranger he is willing to sell the engine to me real cheap what I need to know is will it bolt up to my 84 2.8L B2 or will I have to get new motor mounts?
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Bay Area, West Coast
The 2.8L and 2.9L use the same block castings. The 3.0L is of a different casting, but according to another reputable source, it should bolt up to the tranny/bell housing. Motor mounts might need to be upgraded for the increased power.
Ken00 is correct. But to be more specific, you'll NEED the EEC-IV engne control computer, AND the wiring harness running from it, into the engine compartment. In addition, the EEC-IVs are configured differently for manual transmissions than automatics, so get the one suited to your gearbox. If you get one that's a mismatch to your tranny, you'll have to "fake" the ECC into thinking it's hooked up to its proper tranny. I had to do that when I replaced my 2.8L, in my '84 5-spd Bronco-II, with a 2.9L from an '88 A4LD (automatic) Bronco-II. (the whole project took over a month, doing it by myself)
Let's see; You'll also need the fuel tank, high-press fuel pump, fuel lines and the wiring harness running along the left frame rail to those fuel feed components, air cleaner box, and probably the exhaust pipes attached to the manifolds, along with the Oxygen Sensor, to keep the ECC from going into system (failure) default mode. The throttle cable on the 2.8L is too short for the FI engine, so get one of those, too. If this is going to meet emmissions, while you're scavanging for the exhaust pipe, grab the cat-converters if you can! The rest of the exhaust system will have to be replaced, as well. You may just want to go to a muffler shop (or a friend who can weld).
If you have the 5-spd manual transmission, it's probably the extended 4-spd having the overdrive in seperate (aft) chamber. Unfortunately, that one's too weak to be reliable for the 30% horsepower/torque gain, so go easy on the gas pedal after the swap, and NEVER use OD when towing or climbing hills for more than a few minutes between coasting periods! You may have the engine power to stay in OD, but a 3.0L engine will eat up that tranny's bearings in short order using OD too much. The same rule applies if you have the 4-spd OD auto-tranny. Never use OD in those conditions! (I'm speaking from experience on this issue, too!) On the manual, after the engine upgrade, drain the tranny oil and replace it with Mobil-1 90W-140 Synthetic. That'll help its longevity considerably!
Now, do you still think you want to get that 3.0L? If so, you'll need lots of time, patience, tools, money and a clean and preferrably comfortable place to work. If you've got all that (or close to it), I'd say GO FOR IT! You'll never regret it after it's all said and DONE!
Ken00 is correct. But to be more specific, you'll NEED the EEC-IV engne control computer, AND the wiring harness running from it, into the engine compartment. In addition, the EEC-IVs are configured differently for manual transmissions than automatics, so get the one suited to your gearbox. If you get one that's a mismatch to your tranny, you'll have to "fake" the ECC into thinking it's hooked up to its proper tranny. I had to do that when I replaced my 2.8L, in my '84 5-spd Bronco-II, with a 2.9L from an '88 A4LD (automatic) Bronco-II. (the whole project took over a month, doing it by myself)
Let's see; You'll also need the fuel tank, high-press fuel pump, fuel lines and the wiring harness running along the left frame rail to those fuel feed components, air cleaner box, and probably the exhaust pipes attached to the manifolds, along with the Oxygen Sensor, to keep the ECC from going into system (failure) default mode. The throttle cable on the 2.8L is too short for the FI engine, so get one of those, too. If this is going to meet emmissions, while you're scavanging for the exhaust pipe, grab the cat-converters if you can! The rest of the exhaust system will have to be replaced, as well. You may just want to go to a muffler shop (or a friend who can weld).
If you have the 5-spd manual transmission, it's probably the extended 4-spd having the overdrive in seperate (aft) chamber. Unfortunately, that one's too weak to be reliable for the 30% horsepower/torque gain, so go easy on the gas pedal after the swap, and NEVER use OD when towing or climbing hills for more than a few minutes between coasting periods! You may have the engine power to stay in OD, but a 3.0L engine will eat up that tranny's bearings in short order using OD too much. The same rule applies if you have the 4-spd OD auto-tranny. Never use OD in those conditions! (I'm speaking from experience on this issue, too!) On the manual, after the engine upgrade, drain the tranny oil and replace it with Mobil-1 90W-140 Synthetic. That'll help its longevity considerably!
Now, do you still think you want to get that 3.0L? If so, you'll need lots of time, patience, tools, money and a clean and preferrably comfortable place to work. If you've got all that (or close to it), I'd say GO FOR IT! You'll never regret it after it's all said and DONE!
Last edited by Hooked-on-4WD; Dec 22, 2004 at 04:24 AM.
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Well the guy that has the engine has the whole truck so to get me by for a while I can use most of the part off his truck since we are going to put the 2.8L in his truck he really doesn't need the part for the 3.0L. I have a 84 Bronco II the only problem I really see is that simple fact that I have the C5 auto tranny in my B2 and it's a 4X4 so here is another question can I take the manual tranny out of his ranger and put it in my B2 and since this is going to be an offroading/daily driver is this a good idea?