rearend hop problems
#1
rearend hop problems
guys i rly need help on keeping my rearend on the ground lol doh that didnt come out right. anywayz i have a 1977 ford 4x4 with 12.5/35 tires. i have trouble keeping the rearend or axle or whatever u wanna call it on the ground. i get a lot of rearend hop. would it make a big difference if i changed 1 shock so it faces toward the cab and build a bracket for it insteada both towards the bumper? if not what should i consider other than adding weight in the bed traction bars maybe? if so can i build my own traction bars or do i rly needa pay the money for them. sry about the stupidity never had rearend problems on a truck like this but never had 12.5 wide tires that are on a light truck.... anywayz t/y for all your inputs ahead of time.
#4
of course its when i try to burn rubber i dont care if it doesnt its just my damn 300 6 is geared towards real low end torque it maxes it out at 2000 to 2500 rpms at 265 ft lb thats alot pulling right off the line when i rly want to go somewhere quick. i just need something that can take that torque with the truck still on the ground and keep laughing because, i still get rearend hop after installing a new rearend on it after i broke the first pinion gear from it hopping...... pain in my *** i just want it to stay on the ground. if this means i cant spinem so be it but at least i can speed up. however i want any suggestions and btw it is just when i try and torque the rear hard so to the first reply im sure its not rims and tires they are new plus it doesnt do it all the time... t/y for the response anywayz
#5
Your idea of putting one shock forward and one backward will help some. Chevy has been doing that for years and Ford started doing it now on the new '05 trucks. Stiffer leaf springs will also help with the hopping.
Traction bars from the axle to the frame will help as well. Wild Horses has a cool traction bar that mounts on top of the axle housing right in the center and goes up to a bracket in the middle of the crossmember in the frame in front of the axle on early model Broncos. This may be able to be adapted to your truck and axle for little cost and fabrication. Check it out at www.wildhorses4x4.com in the rear axle section at the bottom of the page. It is meant for 9" Ford rear axles but could probably be used on other axles as well with some modification. You may need to build a crossmember in the right place on your frame to use it.
Traction bars from the axle to the frame will help as well. Wild Horses has a cool traction bar that mounts on top of the axle housing right in the center and goes up to a bracket in the middle of the crossmember in the frame in front of the axle on early model Broncos. This may be able to be adapted to your truck and axle for little cost and fabrication. Check it out at www.wildhorses4x4.com in the rear axle section at the bottom of the page. It is meant for 9" Ford rear axles but could probably be used on other axles as well with some modification. You may need to build a crossmember in the right place on your frame to use it.
#6
Unless you have gobs of horsepower that's causing the wrap there are 2 primary causes of wheel hop. Either worn out rear springs that are too soft (or lift springs that ride soft) or the biggest problem: lift blocks. Lift blocks give your axle a lot of leverage twist on the spring thus causing wheel hop. It's a problem even with the stock blocks but it'll really be aggrivated by lift blocks. The bigger the block the worse the wheel hop. Traction bars will fix it but if you don't want to fiddle with them you might look into getting lift springs that will compensate for the amount of block you're removing. Or you could also check into doing a shackle flip to give you enough lift so that you can ditch the blocks.
#7
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#8
2 primary causes of wheel hop. Either worn out rear springs that are too soft or the biggest problem: lift blocks. Lift blocks give your axle a lot of leverage twist on the spring thus causing wheel hop. It's a problem even with the stock blocks but it'll really be aggrivated by lift blocks. The bigger the block the worse the wheel hop. Traction bars will fix it but if you don't want to fiddle with them you might look into getting lift springs that will compensate for the amount of block you're removing. Or you could also check into doing a shackle flip to give you enough lift so that you can ditch the blocks.
well i do have lift blocks on the rearend and the springs may be a little soft also... so i guess i have double negatives here ill have to look in to springs that compensate for the extra 3.5 in i know a guy at a spring shop not to far away that has reasonable prices on them. j/w though with 12.5 in tires that dont like to turn over very far when normal 1s would spin still cause the hop.
well i do have lift blocks on the rearend and the springs may be a little soft also... so i guess i have double negatives here ill have to look in to springs that compensate for the extra 3.5 in i know a guy at a spring shop not to far away that has reasonable prices on them. j/w though with 12.5 in tires that dont like to turn over very far when normal 1s would spin still cause the hop.
Last edited by Gerry Lutz Jr.; 12-19-2004 at 04:45 PM.
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TheMechanicalAnimal
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