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What are they, I pulled my stereo out today to install another one, before i realized i didn't have any connectors, and saw these huge white things in line with 4 wires, once I get some pics, i'll post them here. I remember when i got the thing installed about 2 years ago, the guy that installed it told me that they had placed in speaker saver wires. Does anyone know what these things do? I haven't heard much of a difference between my dad's setup, other than the fact I have aftermarket speakers now, but before that, there wasn't any sound difference. What do these things do exactly, I was thinking when I do get the connectors, I am going to pull those things out if I don't need them, which obviously, it doesn't look like i do need them. But What are they????
Sounds like a adaptor that converts factory connector to HU wires. Saves time wiring systems. They use the factory speaker wiring and power, So you don't have to cut the factory connector, Or run new wires to each speaker.
the wires are placed between connectors from the HU to the connector leading to the speakers, there are 4 placed there, and not all of the wires have one, but they are between connectors and not connector to speaker, this would be easier to show with a picture, but I haven't had a chance to get out there and pull it back out, it's cold and raining, and i'm starting to get sick, so yeah, no garage, not up to it right now.
Im not sure but by the sound of speaker saver wires it almost sounds like an inline fuse. Maybe he installed them to protect your speakers or a frequency blocker like a bass blocker that ken64 mentioned, does any bass come out of the speakers and are the connectors only on the positive wire going to the speaker?
On the white "speaker saver wires" it has installedge.com written on it, so i am surfing the site trying to find them bc my dads digital isn't working right and i can't send a pix message from my phone at my house. I believe that that is exactly what it was, I pulled them out and found that when I turn the sound up, it doesn't pop and miss like something is skipping. I have replaced that stereo, removed the extra wires, and now that I have more power, sounds like i'm rattling some of the panels inside loose, so i need to figure out a way to fix that, saw something in bestbuy, the other day, supposed to limit distortion and rattle. It's called dynomat, or something like that, comes in 10"x10" squares, and surrounds your speakers, under the panel, and is supposed to dampen the sound from coming through. does anyone know about this stuff?
saw something in bestbuy, the other day, supposed to limit distortion and rattle. It's called dynomat, or something like that, comes in 10"x10" squares, and surrounds your speakers, under the panel, and is supposed to dampen the sound from coming through. does anyone know about this stuff?
It's Dynamat ( www.dynamat.com ) and is a type of vibration damping material.
I used Dynamat Xtreme on both my doors and it greatly reduced door panel vibrations due to the door speakers. It also greatly reduced the road noise coming through the doors. The doors also now close shut with a solid "thunk," similar to a luxury car. A pic can be seen on my homepage...
The 10"x10" square you refered to is their "speaker kit" which will cover only the area immediately around the speakers. This will help some but would not be nearly as effective as doing the entire door. Also, a speaker kit from Best Buy sells for $20, which is a poor deal considering you can get a "door kit" on eBay for around $50 delivered which will cover both doors entirely as pictured in my homepage.
Caps? If the speaker shorts? why would they have limited the output to the speakers if it was to blow when a speaker shorts? I'm a little confused here muffin, I mean, I realize what they are now, it's pretty obvious in the sound change in my speakers.
Those appear to be capacitors, which, when installed in series with the speaker, will limit the low frequencies (bass) protecting the speaker. They are non-polarized electrolytic (ridge on both ends) so that the polarity does not damage the cap (the same can be done by connecting two opposite regular electrolytic caps end to end).