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I have a 92 f-150 4x4 dual tank. both fuel gauges work perfectly but my rear tank will not use any of its fuel. had to find that out the hard way on the interstate when i went to switch tanks lol...grrrrr. its reading 3/4 of a tank cuz thats what i just put in it ......nuthin? check engine light came on pulled the codes said blah,blah,blah inertia switch.... if the inertia switch were bad or tripped wouldnt both tanks die?????/ please help. THX
Have someone turn the key to on to see if you can hear the pump in the rear tank. What codes did you get? So the truck runs ok beside this problem? I guess you will need to test the fuel pressure for the rear tank. When you trip the inertia switch it shuts off both fuel tanks. Also tap on the rear fuel tank to see if it has some fuel, fuel gagues go bad alot on fords. It could be a bad fuel selector valve under the truck. With my defective selector valve I couldn't use my front tank and it was pumping my fuel from the rear tank to the front tank. Kinks in the rear fuel lines???
no tank is full guage is right because i just filled it ran front tank dry switched to the rear and nuthin. no kinked line but have not listened for rear pump either,,,,lol. check engine light came on after some rough off roadin lol. never tried the duals again till i went to chicago ,,,,,outta gas lol
everythings normal with the truck rear tank just wont work and its full??/no kinks in the lines nuthin just gettin the inertia switch code ?didnt know if it were dual switch or not?
I wounder if your getting power to the rear fuel pump? If so you could then switch the two front and rear two fuel lines at the selector valve. What was the code number?
I'm 99% sure, that the 92s don't have the selector valve anymore. The in-tank Fuel Delivery Modules (FDM) feed a common line, check valves are internal in the FDMs. I agree with Mike, first check if you can hear the rear pump when you turn the key. If not, you may emty the tank (I used a hand pump), then lower the tank, pull the electrical connector and check the power supply. If power is okay, you may need to replace the FDM.
LoL Dieter
DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME DROPPING THE TANK. The easiest way to check to see if it is the switch, is to pull the switch out of the dash. Take the connector off. Ond one side, you will have a heavy red wire coming in in the center of the plug. This is your main tank feed. Check for voltage(just to make sure your test will work). Take a jumper from the feed wire and touch the terminal above or below it. You should be able to hear your tank prime with the door open. If jumping both terminals work, its your pump. If only one terminal energizes the corresponding pump, your switch is bad. I had the same problem (gauge worked but pump didn't) and I went the backwards way to find the switch. I recommend starting at the switch and working backwards to the tank. If this is the problem, you can run with the jumper across the plug until you can make to your local dealer for the switch.
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