I am having trouble with the VRV valve on my IP. When I move it, there is really no change in shift points. I have installed a new Modulator and Vacuum has been tested. I have found a used VRV and will be trying it out this week. Is the change noticable as to shift point when the VRV is adjusted?

 

so you are talking about the valve for vaccume on the injector pump correct? I have found that it doesnt really make much difference but you can tell if it is at one side or the other for sure, so maybe you have other vaccume problems.

 

Everything else checks out, so I am sure it is the Vacuum valve on the IP. A new one is $100 at the dealer, so I thought I would try a used one first to see if it makes any difference.

 

In case you did not do this.............

How to adjust VRV
You don't have the engine running for the test, you need to apply 20" vacuum to upper VRV port and attach vacuum gauge to lower VRV port. The lower port is the one that goes to tranny, the upper to vacuum pump.
You have to maintain 20" througout this test. If it drops off you need to pump it back up.
Remove throttle return spring, cycle throttle lever 5 times from idle to WOT. Make sure 20" vacuum is maintained on upper port side.
Move throttle so it is 0.515" (33/64") from wide open (they make a tool for this). Vacuum gauge should read from 6-8" of vacuum. If incorrect adjust VRV to 7".
Again apply 20" vacuum, cycle throttle from idle to WOT 5 times. Return to idle. Gauge should read at least 13".

It says if you can't get the 7" or the 13" to replace the VRV. If VRV checks out maybe the diaphragm (modulator), line from VRV goes to the vacuum diaphragm I believe. Can't find any adjustment for the diaphragm but I think there is a little.

Basically all you need for the test is a vacuum pump (handheld type), vacuum gauge and a ruler to measure 1/2" or a 33/64" drill bit in lieu of the .515" tool. And a screwdriver for any adjustment needed.
Borrowed from a friend named James