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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 02:33 PM
  #16  
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olfordsnstone
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Wont do that again
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 05:21 PM
  #17  
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Especially the battery cables.


Some Old time mechanics are still telling or doing this themselves then they come up with the excuse > well the alternator was the problem"

Also,this is hazardess to the computer as well.

Think "Spiking" when the power goes out & then comes on when all your computer stuff is running and you don't have a proper Power arrest in your power bar.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 09:44 PM
  #18  
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hey guys! well, i got it! thank all you for your help, it WAS the fusible link and the regulator. first, i had the regulator tested and it was bad so i got a new regulator, and a fusible link. AND i found out why it did this. as my friend at autozone handed me the regulator, he said, "BEFORE you hook any wires back up, you HAVE to bolt the regulator down FIRST, it HAS to have a good ground or it WILL blow out" then i got to thinking, when i did put my alternator on a few days ago when this happenned i unbolted the regulator to see which wires went where and i didnt bolt it back on, so thats how all this blew out. didnt realize it. well, now i got it all fixed up and my truck is ready for some more fourwheeling adventures. thanks alot guys, i appreciate it. tony
 
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 09:50 PM
  #19  
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From: okc


 
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 11:43 PM
  #20  
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This is Tony now :

 
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 02:20 PM
  #21  
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alright, guys, now i got another question... so i got it to turn over and got power to everything again but now it doesnt show any signs of firing up. it just turns over forever. its wired with points ignition. could i have screwed up some points or something? also, if i turn the key on, and i use the test light on the wire that goes to the starter, should it light up? dont know of anything else that might have been blown out. thanks guys tony
 
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 02:27 PM
  #22  
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Have you tested for spark since you got power back? Also, pop the dist. cap off, and give the points a visual inspection, and grab and twist the rotor to check for movement. May not hurt to check the gap and dwell while you're at it. Possible the condensor was zapped in the whole procedure as well. If you have an old one lying around, take the wire, touch it to it's own body (removes any electrical build-up inside) and then install it and see.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 05:37 PM
  #23  
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Once you figure out if the points/condenser are the problem you might want to look into upgrading to an electronic ignition. I am using a Pertronix ignition module on mine and it works beautifully. You never have to mess with points again and if it should ever fail, you just swap the old points back in with little effort. Its a fairly easy upgrade that only takes a few minutes. The cost is about $80.00. Its just a thought you might consider.
 
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