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What size/type of wire should I replace on the alternater to the battery? Just so I don't mess it up worse. Could a battery that is too small be causing these problems?
What size/type of wire should I replace on the alternater to the battery? Just so I don't mess it up worse. Could a battery that is too small be causing these problems?
I used #4 for my installation. If the alternator is putting out around 90 amps or highier it will work ok. Have the system checked and you will know what you have to work with.
Are you shure you are running the right ohms on that amp. When you over load a amp it will shut down. A amp will also shut down when it is too hot too.
How could I be running wrong ohms? I didn't know there was a right or wrong.
To make a long discussion short, to prevent an amplifier from overheating, and thus degrading performance up to and including failure of the amp, it must be used with a speaker set-up that is the correct match in "ohms". Using an amplifier with an ohm set up that is too low will cause the amp to flow too much current through its output devices. Bottom line, too much current=too much heat. Too much heat=bad things happen.
Feel your amp. If its HOT then you migh possibly be running it at an unstable ohm. Is it a 2-Channel amplifier? How are your speakers wired? Are your speakers 4 ohm?
I don't know the ohm's of the speakers. They are MTX Thunder 6000's and are available in 4, 8, or 12 ohms. No clue what mine are. My amp is a Kenwood KAC-X201T rated for 150W Stereo at 4 ohm OR 600W Bridged at 4 ohm. I think its only a 2 channel but not sure, I don't know about this stuff. I bought this amp along with the speakers from a kid that had it in his truck and supposedly worked great.
Ok it's a 2 channel. Just make sure that the speakers are connected in right. I'm not sure how it can be a power shortage if it's only doing 75watts to each sub.
If its only running that much juice i can almost guarantee that even the weakest battery and alternator combo could easily handle that sort of load. I can almost guarantee that for some reason too much resistance, or a short is happening. It might be that you have a bad ground, or a bad connnection between the subs and the amp. Just recheck all the connections, and maybe try using only one sub(disconnect the other) and see if it still shuts off, then revese it try the other sub. If it doesnt doit anymore then the first sub you tested has some sort of problem with it either in the wiring or the sub itself. Good luck figuring it out.
Ok, I'll check the connections. Why is the stereo rating only 150w when the bridged is 600? Does that mean I'll have more power to my speakers if I bridge them? 75watts each seems kinda low.
Ok, I'll check the connections. Why is the stereo rating only 150w when the bridged is 600? Does that mean I'll have more power to my speakers if I bridge them? 75watts each seems kinda low.
A decent 2 channel amp that is bridgeable to one channel(which is NOT necessarily the same as mono) can, in fact, be rated to deliver 4 times as much power when bridged, as it can into each channel in the 2 channel mode. It can be a complicated discussion for beginners. Remember, though, that if you have two 4 ohm subs, they are not going to be a good match for a bridged amp. It can only be used "safely" with a 4 ohm set-up. Using those two 4 ohm subs is going to give you 2 ohms or 8 ohms, depending on how you wire them to the amp. And if you run one on each channel, they will get only 75 watts RMS, as someone mentioned. And those 150 and 600 watt figures are "peak", which are basically meaningless. That amp is rated @75watts RMS(continuous)x2@4ohms, and probably around 300wattsRMSx1@4ohms. The Excelon amps are pretty decent, but cannot be used into 2 ohms when bridged. Only in 2 channel.
I looked at my positive/negative wires and the connections were rusty going into the amp. Ground wire was horrible. The metal hook spliced onto the end of the power wire was missing a prong so that could be why I don't have enough juice. I sat and watched my amp for 10 minutes and I seen the low voltage light flash a few times before I shut it off. I bridged my subs and they seem to move alot more. Yes I know I'm not suppose to do this, I was just trying new things. When I unplugged one amp, it still moved just as much as the other. Is this normal or is my box not built right? I think thats about all I learned today. I'll be back complaining again if I don't make any progress.
First things first, fix all those connections. When you say 'low voltage light' do you mean the Protection Light(usually Red)? Also, when you say 'unplugged one amp' do you mean sub? If so, what kind of box is it? It is normal as the plugged sub's air moves the unnplugged sub.
Yes, I meant I unplugged one sub. The box is homemade and seeled, but I'm thinking about putting a port hole in the top but not sure. There is a operation/protection light thats red and stays on all the time, and blinks when somethings wrong. The low voltage light is orange. I also have it grounded to the cab floor which probably isn't grounded that well considering its mounted in rubber and rust. I'm going to run a wire to the ground on the battery to take care of that.
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