So far I have paid for the hub valve and the labor associated with that fix, then I had to prepay for the shift motor because it is a non-stock item, so on saturday morning when I pick the truck up again, I will only have to pay the labor (1hr@$72)to install the shift motor. Brad, I am originally from Waukesha but now live in Minocqua. The trails are in great condition right now.

 

Well you should probaly be in pretty good shape after the motor is put in. Hopefully your hub seals are not bad, mine were bad around 70,000. You can always operate 4wd with bad seals though as alot of us do by locking them in manually. That's funny your from Waukesha, I'd like to have own a place up there too. For now I will have to stick to staying at some freinds' places though. Let us know when you get the motor in.

Brad

 

How big of a job is it to replace the hub seals if they are in fact bad as well? Parts cost, How many hours of labor? Thanks

 

To be honest oages, I decided like alot of others to not even replace my hubs at all. I think it is fairly pricey to get new hubs put in because(correct me if I'm wrong guy's but) I believe that the hub and the wheel bearing are one assembally. It was kind of funny when my seals went bad..... if I had say "the vent" on in the truck, the vacume leak threw the hubs would cause the defrost to go on when I turned 4wd on... LOL(because vent and heater controls are controlled by vacume from the engine). So what I did is plug the red vacume line at the vacume selonoid(behind the battery)with some silocone and a screw and well I don't have a vacume leak anymore. I lost my auto locking hubs but I still have shift on the fly if I leave the hubs locked in. That really doesn't bother me at all, I just lock them in when I think I may need 4wd. I know it sort of defeats the purpose but living where we do, I think the salt and the sand kills the hub seals. Maybe someone else can let you know how much it is to replace the hub. I will probably put WARN premiums in when my hubs acually die(mechanically) but untill then the Ford hubs work for me. Just a note: I have been religiously locking in my 4wd about once a month(summer too)on my road that doesn't have turns and I havent had an issue yet with my servo motor not locking in(except for my switch) in 107,000mi. If you use it it enough you shouldn't have issues.

 

One nice thing about disconnecting the vacuum hubs is the ability to use 4LOW in 2-wheel drive.

That's one thing I miss about ESOF - that low gear in 2-wheel. There was a mod I read about on here where you could put a switch under or in the dash to turn on or off the vacuum hubs, so you could flip a switch, go to 4LOW and have low in 2-wheel drive.

Anyway...

 

How do you tell if the hubs are bad? Before the current problem, I have never had any issues with 4x4 working

 

One thing at a time - the transfer case servo was clicking, which is a sign it can't shift - once that's done, if the hubs work, kiss the truck and move on...

One of the dangers of too many people in this thread is that we start to talk amongst ourselves...

You can check the hubs for leaks by using a hand vacuum pump with a guage on it - connect it to the hub, pump to 20 inches or so, and watch the guage. If it moves (and the pump is good) they're leaking.

 

Thanks Krewat, I am not trying to get ahead of myself, but with the discussion I was just wondering if there were any tell tale signs to tell the hubs were bad. I am assuming the shift motor will fix the problem. Thanks for all of your help, it is appreciated. Happy holidays to all.

 

The hubs are easy to replace, and don't include the wheel bearings. The wheel bearings are part of the axle assemblies. Warns are about $150-200/pair or so (don't quote me on the price, but it's someting like that). New fords show up on ebay for about $150 now and then.

To remove:

1) Remove the centercap from the rim.
2) Remove the spring clip.
3) Pull the hub. This can be tricky, probably will have to wiggle it back and forth and pull firmly. Eventually it will come out. On mine i grabbed with both hands, pulled firmly and wiggled it side to side, took about a minute of this.

If you feel comfortable taking the hub itself apart, be sure to clean everything really well and grease thouroughly. The factory grease is probably all gummed up, and there probably wasn't enough to begin with. Basically it's inner and outer snap rings and tap the body on a piece of wood and the contents will come out. There is a spring inside, so try to hold it so you parts don't go all over the place. It will be easier to put back together. At a bear minimum, remove the big o-ring and clean or replace. Be sure to clean the groove in the hub, and the surface it mates with on the spindle. I lube the o ring with silicone grease. Axle grease might be bad for the rubber, not sure.

To check if the hubs work, jack up the front, put it in 4x4, and spin one wheel. If the other wheel spins the opposite direction it's in 4x4 and both hubs are locked. If you have a manual locker, like ARB, you could lock it and check each wheel. If it spins, the hubs not working.

The not recommended method, but the way I check is to put it in 4x4 on dry pavement while moving VERY slowly and make a light turn. You will feel the truck binding from front to rear. Don't go more than a few feet like this, either a wheel will lose traction or something will break. If it feels like normal, 4x4 isn't working correctly.

Eric

 

Good advice, I myself am about to delve into re-lubing my hubs, because my hubs are starting to stick. '01 with only 20K miles (not even).

I'm probably going to use trailer-wheel-bearing grease, the stuff that's good for trailers that go into salt-water (boat ramp)... it's pretty water resistant, used it on everything in my '74 and never had water-related grease failure (and yes, water got into stuff so I know it worked

 

I got the truck back this morning and the shift motor replacement did the trick. The dealer also only charged me for half of the labor (1/2) hour to fix it today. Hopefully this is the last 4x4 issue I have. Thanks again for all of the suggestions, and Happy Holidays

 

I have to say I still have my '91 F150 Nite 4x with 5.8, 5 speed, manual transfer case, and auto hubs. I have never thought much about changing anything on the truck concerning the drivetrain but since the price of gas has doubled I have honestly considered putting manual hubs on it. I can tell you I have had both over the years and the autos have spoiled me. But I cant understand why people would say autos are better. On my other trucks with manual hubs, If I go out and see that it is snowing, or if I am planning on getting into something I might need 4x, I just would walk around the truck and lock the hubs before I start out. It is not that big of a deal.

With that said, I would never retire or trade my ole Ford. It is just too good of truck. But I went to the Ford dealer today looking at trucks. And guess what I found out? You cannot get a new F150 with a 5-speed with a manual transfer case anylonger...I couldnt believe it. Why do they mess with things that has been virtually indestructable since 1959? I walk out disgusted

 

Your '91 probably has the "ratchet" style auto hubs, not the vacuum ones. Or do you?

 

Yes they are the old style

 

With the motor off and the key on, turn it to the 4-high position and tap the servo motor with a hammer.(like a sticking starter) This is what Ford told me to try to see if it was the motor or electrical.


Edit: Sorry, relized I only read the first page