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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Vent Window Repalcement?

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Old Dec 13, 2004 | 12:42 AM
  #1  
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From: Ridgeway, Virginia
Vent Window Repalcement?

Anybody know how to replace the vent window/frame in the 65?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2004 | 01:24 AM
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Good question. I am trying to do this too. Will wait patiently for help also.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2004 | 10:33 AM
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Yes! Its just screws and bolts. The hard part is finding a good frame. These often rust and the bolt that holds the tension spring in place is busted off. This would also be a good time to replace the felts, gaskets and whiskers. Carpenter sells a nice kit for this job. Find a good vent window frame and post back. I'll help you through this.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2004 | 02:21 PM
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Yes, I have removed all screws etc. but problem is getting the division bar out. Does not seem to fit any way through access panel in door (big panel on inside). Is there something I am missing? or do I just cut it half and weld back together when reinstalling? Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 05:33 AM
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Randy, I just changed one on my 92 and I brought it out the top. I suspect yours is done the same.

John
 
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 06:42 AM
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Pull the window regulator and door glass. Remove the door felt channel, tip it back and up to the outside. You can twist it a bit to clear the door support at the top and then pull up and out.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 10:45 AM
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Most replacement places have directions on their book....
 
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 06:28 AM
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From: middletown usa
vents

I heard new ones are coming around spring but sound exp. I just repaired mine by welding a piece of thin flat stock in the bottom where the bolts rusts out. I bought new nylon tension wahers at the local hardware store. They go between the spring and outer frame. Next is to have them powder coated.

Wayne wk65
 
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 10:04 AM
  #9  
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Frames were available for about $200.00. Junk Yard supply for now. Carpenter sells everything else, not cheap but very high quality. The vent window, vent window frame, window channel and all the gaskets come off as a unit. Take out all the screws including one hiding under the outer seal at the bottom near the pivot. Tile the assembly to the rear and pull it up and out. Hardest part is finding good frames. Powder coating a good set is a wise investment.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2004 | 01:58 PM
  #10  
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From: seattle
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Which side do you need ???
I have been hoarding these for years...with and w/o glass...as for division bar removal...it comes out thru bottom access panel hole...pull armrest,door latch and door glass. Glass is secured to regulator with spring clip thru middle of nylon roller...easy to get to and pop off. There is a tiny well hidden screw that joins the vent upper frame (which you dont see when installed) to the division bar assy....theres a tiny hole you get to it thru in rear of vent w/strip...Ive yet one of these to give me problems.
As noted above, this would be a perfect time to do door anti-rattle kit as the fuzzies, or whats left need to come out so the bar can slide to the rear to allow the vent assy to come out....division bar is a couple 3/8 or 7/16 nuts/bolts just inside and forward of the door access hole. 2 phillips screws at tip top of door, and 2 along fwd painted edge of door frame..the phillips are all gotten from outside of door.
with fuzzies off, etc and division bar slid to the rear for now. Undo the vent to door screws and slide to rear..if the bottom is rotted out of frame pivot, push bottom of glass one way or the other and pull out of upper pivot and set aside. If its not that rotten, theres a 1/2" nut which has anti squeak washers,a spring and a tri angular piece on the vent frame lower pivot shaft...the triangular piece is splined!!! when glass frame is assembled in inner frame the pivot goes thru a box like area in inner lower frame...when you remove the 1/2' nut it SHOULD all fall into your hand....if not, rock and pull down on splined piece...once the splined piece is off, the glass frame can be removed. the splined piece is inside of a box like area on the inner frame thus if its stuck glass and inner frame come out as one. the hard thing is that depending where it was put, the tip of the splined elongated triangular piece may not let it come out of door w/o carefully spreading upper door to get it thru or getting it turned so its as parallel as possible in door to be removed. Putting it back together....I would put frame and inner frame/new w/strip in as an assy.
Once the vent is out, the division bar will come out from bottom as one with little problem...patience is required here as its a twist,slide out, twist so much pull out more and so on....its a definate trick!!! Many say to also pull window regulator, but many times I have gotten 3 of the 4 screws out and gotten no further on the screws....I got replacement screws...nice cooperative originals that didnt fight it anyone needs them...The other thing as to division bar, is there is an "L" bracket up top which is part of the assy which points to the rear as installed(where 2 top screws go into)...this is under the rear glass run channel....run channel is part that is fuzzy channel for rear and top of glass with glass rolled up...it snaps in place...you may or may not get lucky in not messing it up removing it. But if redoing whole door anti rattle parts....pop and go...the rear lower part is essentially held there by the glass in the U shaped channel...pull from bottom and have at it.


This is not as hard as it sounds but I know I was miffed when I discovered A, the tiny phillips screw joining the div. bar to vent frame and B, the ordeal trying to get the div. bar out in one piece. if you are replacing the div. bar...try to get old one out in one piece, so you have somewhat of an idea how the new one has to go in....




I hope this is complete, but if not, Im sure others will chime in...Let me know about the vent frame though...always happy to keep these rigs on the road...



cs65
 
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