Okay, i've been on this site for some time, but mainly for my ranger, now i'm wondering, whats the best, hands down, tire squealing, whiplashing, neck breaking performance mod i can do to my F150. Its an 85 with 302 EFI, 4x4, standard cab, woody flatbed. I believe D44 (i think this is my front axle, can someone clarify?) in the front and 8.8 in the rear with 3.55 gears. What works and what doesnt with these trucks? I dont want to rip the engine apart for a new cam/crank/bore it out. Basically bolt on/weld on type stuff, i just basically dont want to rip the engine apart. I know all the emmissions stuff is there for a reason, but when i got the truck (for free) the belt was allready taken off the AIR pump and the A/C compresser, no muffler, but it actually had the cat on it.

Would i be better off unhooking all my exhaust stuff and starting over fresh? Like, buying headers, running true dual back to some Flowmaster 40's, or some glasspacks? Whats better the flow's or the glasspacks? Should i put on some new Cats? or maybe a dual in dual out cat? basically, the stock one is coming off one way or another, because right now it is about to fall off. There is no testing in MN, so i'm not sure if i want to drop another 100 on a cat. What does everybody think?

 

Well in my opoinion the best bang for the buck powere upgrade one can do is a cam changed as you can get a new and lifters from 100-150, and you can gain an easy 50-75hp from the RIGHT cam, but since you said you don't want to do this, you next best thing would be the exhaust. You will get the biggest gain from starting over are either going to a 2.5 dual or 3" single, and i would go for a long tube header as well. If you can i would just junk the cats, cause you said there is no emissions test. Next to dropping 500-600 dollars (your exhaust will run in this neighborhod) on new upper and lower intake manifold, you can get a chip and upgrade the injectors, you might be able to get a thottle body as well, and a new air filter and air filter assembly will do a lot, but other than going to a super charger/turbo, your best bet would be a cam change along with your new exhaust,

 

IMHO: If you got headers, true dual 2 1/2" exhaust pipes, with magnaflow mufflers, you'd get great power, a good tone, and even pick p a few MPG's. I'd even go so far as to say the if you got a K&N air filter, you'd be happy as well. The better the engine breathes, the more power you get. I'd scrap the cats if you don't have emmisions tests and clean up the engine bay by removing the A.I.R pump.

Another thing you should look into getting is an aftermarket ignition system. I personally am going to get a Jacob's Ignition box myself, but if you get a Mallory or even an MSD, you'd get the same benefits of a hotter, longer spark. I think MSD's are crap because of all the problems people have had with them. I have a friend who's MSD went to poo after only 3 months, but do some research and make your own decisions on MSD.
Good Luck!

 

Exactly what is involved with a cam change on the f150? I know it looks like it would be absolutly crazy doing it on my ranger, taking off all this and that, but the f150 has a big engine bay, and lots of room, as long as it didnt take me all year to do it, i wouldnt mind.

 

Easiest way would be to remove the rad, grill, and then all applicable engine parts to slide the cam out thru the front of the truck. Keep in mind, you'll need your intake manifold off, valve covers off, need to remove the push rods and lifters, and timing cover and timing gears as well. May as well get a better than stock replacement timing gear/chain set-up while you're in there. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to change the distributor drive gear at this point either, as it's driven off the cam. It sounds like a bigger job than it is, really. With a bit of prior research as to what's invloved on your truck for removal to access the cam, it can probably be done in about a day(shadie-tree mechanic style). For those more profficient, and better equipped with tools and know-how, it can be a lot less time. You'll need some specialty tools in regards to torque wrenches, and possibly a set of feeler guages to set the backlash on your valves afterwards.

 

Get yourself some inexpensive hedman headers, buy some cheap glasspacks and head over to Exhaust Pros in Devils Lake and tell them to bend some pipe to make duals. I got all that done for less than $400 and noticed a definite increase in throttle response and some audible attitude.

 

RR4E is right on whats involved, it's a fairly simple job to do, as most of the work is disassembly of the top of the motor, grill and rad. The actual cam swap will take just a few minutes once everything is out of the way, and if you do go this way be sure to get new lifters with the cam cause old lifters and a new cam is a no-no, as this will cause premature wear on the cam, and be sure that everything is clean enough to eat off of, as this will make reassmbly way easier and prevent any dirt from getting into the engine.

 

Okay, i'm starting to like this cam idea. What brand is a good one? What style? I'll probalby be driving this thing everywhere, from corn fields, to highway, to ice fishing, to mudding, to drag racing... I was just trying to stay away from pulling the engine. But as long as its possible to do this in a day, i'm all for it.

 

Is the MAS going to like a CAM and everything. I think when I looked into this that you couldn't get much out of a stock 80s EFI system and either needed to go to a carb or convert it to MAF.


Has anyone here done this with success without going to carb or MAF?

Lee

 

That is a good point to make Lee. I've tended to stay away from mods like this, in reference to fuel injected engines, because of the potential for various sensors, and the computer to not be able to compensate for it. One would have to do some research, make some calls to engine building shops, and ask some serious questions in regards to what cam, if any, will work with the existing set-up. Other good, and relatively in-expensive mods that will be effective would be freeing up the exhaust, as well as a free-flowing air cleaner, like a K&N. I see so many people recommending dual exhaust, but it gets to be tricky with a fuel injected engine, as true duals call for the elimination of the O2 sensor, which in turn has adverse effects on the engine, rather than positive ones. To run duals after the cat would work, or a single large diameter exhaust would also work, as both would all for the O2 sensor to be retained. This article explains exhaust rather well, in layman's terms.

http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcraf...st/default.asp

You'll need to use IE to view it, it won't work with netscape or other alternative browsers.

 

Cool website, i want to make a killer exhaust system out of this beast! I got it from my uncle for free, allready have a flatbed built on it, and allready have plans to fix it up and paint it. I left about a 4 inch (maybe a little more) space between the back of the cab and the front of the flatbed to run stacks up the back of the truck! It should look insanly mean when its done. Now i just need some money!

 

You want power? You want bragging rights? lol 200 hp shot of good ole NOS. But you also may want to hunt down another motor also(for when yours Grenades!!) The cam idea is on the right track and I cant remember if he said it was 4x4 or not but if not then a set of rear gears would also simulate more hp to the rear wheels

 

Ya I agree if you dont mind bad gas mileage......then go with some low gears, I recomend 4.11

 

Its 4x4, so i'd need fronts too, I was thinking about upgrading the 3.55's up to 4.10's or higher, but i think thats for the future. I just wasnt sure if there was some "trick" to these EFI 5.0's that everyone was doing to get more Torqe out of them, not that the motor wont leave a 8 foot patch the way it is, but i'm always looking for more power.

 

well i say go with some Long Tube Headers and Low Restriction Mufflers like Cherry Bombs or Glasspacks then put a Cold Air System under the hood.....OH and if you want to find Long Tube Headers for your application go to Summit Racing and look into some Hedmans those are the only Long Tubes i found for my application and i have a 86 5.0 EFI