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Ok i am not an expert but i have read in a few posts that dana 60 rear axles are not good enough to run with larger tires. That you break axle shafts ? and have said that the 70 is the only way to go.
not to argue that the 70 is not the way to go or anything but lets face it the thing is a ground dozer ! and there are ways of not killing a 60 even on 44's
say what ever but gear ratio plays a big part on how much stress the shaft gets on take off, next which D 60 do ya have is it a 16 spline, 30 or a 35 ?
what does the hub look like could it be worn out and letting the axle vibrate causing it to sher and yes lockers are great but the ol' trac lock can still do it's job with people who ain't running mud boggs every saturday . i know that a few of you are pro's and know what ya are taking about. What i am saying is that not every one here is and that some of the people may be confused and wonder why they went out and bought a D70 to run 38's and had better luck making it thru a mud hole with there 9" and 35's
true.. but a D60 is not what everyone thinks it is. i think it is mostly b/c the D60 front is so praised over that ppl think the D60 rear MUST match it in strength....WRONG. i have a buddy (in my gallery, troy) who runs a 390/T18/NP205/D44/D60 and he has busted his rear almost everytime we go out and play in the4 mud. granted he is welded in the rear but so am I. he has the 30 spline shafts which are very tight and have no vibration with 4.56 gears.
i run a sterling and have seen sterlings hold up to 44" boggers locked and just givin' her everything she's got in the mud and not even blink! but with strength you sacrifice size. i would rather be tugged out (or use my new winch ) rather than limp home on my front axle cause i busted my sterling in half!
i do see what you are saying and i agree with you....but only to an extent (eveything would be boring if everyone agreed )
-cutts-
Last edited by fishmanndotcom; Dec 12, 2004 at 12:46 AM.
The 60 rear is a very stout axle untill you consider the axleshafts- they are by far the weakest link in the chain. unless you have one of the extremely rare 35 spline versions, the 30 splines are the same diameter as a dana 44 front axle. Shure, a set of 35 spliners can be put into a 60 but by when you consider the cost to do so, it is a better option to just start with a 70 if you dont have much sunk into your 60 already.
mjl351w, I love the point you make.Our trucks ars like boats. No one single truck can be built to do it all. It is nice to have two or three. My F250 is a daily driver work truck.
I believe I am going to use the 9" out of my 1/2 ton in it. No bigger than 35" tires. It is a compromise, one that I think might work well for me.
And it also depends on if you are talking D60 full float or semifloat. A D60 can be built relatively cheap with axles but inmho the tire size should be limited to 40" or less. I can also see using them in a Daily driver because of the weight and ground clearance with small 33-36" tires. There is no point in running a D60 without 35 spline axles.
On this note, A little while ago i was told (i posted a topic about lockers and what the cost in this forum) that you could use the dana 70 shafts and bearnings in a 60 to get the 35 spline axles(i'm planning on running a spool), is this true?
I have found that the dana 61 from early 80's ford trucks use the same spindle as a 70- not really relevant, but potentially useful to know. I have a 35 spline spool for a dana 60 and have been looking for a 35 spline 60 for about 7 years now and only found one and it was way too wide. I am aware that a person can bore out the 60 spindle and then use 35 spline axles in the 60, but by the time I buy the boring tool ($300) and a set of axles ($300), thats money better spent on a 70. I had been measuring 70 axleshafts that I would run across, but nothing I found would match the 60 I would use- Basically what I'm getting at is the 60 just aint worth the effort when there are 70's, Sterlings and 14 bolts readily available.
Hummm, this sound like i might have to give 'er a try since i know wher i can get the parts, and unless i can find a 70U i'm sticking with the 60, thanks for that info cutts, and those measurements are pretty dang close so it shouldn't to big of a machining bill either.
Currie has their performance axles listed for $399 but are for the semifloat I believe. I'd ask them about 1.5 inch 35 spline shafts for a floater and about boring the spindles or find another shop to bore the spindles.
Edit: If I were to build a K5 Blazer, I would be more than happy to put a 14 bolt rear in it.
On my 76 F250 that I used to have I blew up the Dana Powerlock diff in it. The case blew apart. I found another one out of an old International and used it with the IHC axles as well. They were about 12 splines or so. Big splines. I never had any problems with it after that. This was behind a built 428 CJ, 4.56 gears and 38.8" Ground Hawgs.
[QUOTE=rlh]Currie has their performance axles listed for $399 but are for the semifloat I believe. I'd ask them about 1.5 inch 35 spline shafts for a floater and about boring the spindles or find another shop to bore the spindles.
Edit: If I were to build a K5 Blazer, I would be more than happy to put a 14 bolt rear in it. [/QUOTE
If you bore the spindles you also need to hone them to remove stress risers from the cutting tool marks.
I thought the rear D60 would be pretty much bulletproof until I popped an axle on some hardpack dirt. Nothing ridiculous, just testing out my mild 400hp 390 that I had just put together. Everything was in good shape, I had a LockRite locker, just let the clutch out at 2000rpm or so and squeezed the gas and it let go...took out the carrier as well. I run 38.5 Swampers and 4.10s. I have since upgraded to a Dana70 because I found one for $150 ready to install and didn't think it was worth the expense to get another carrier, and upgrade spindles and axles to 35spl just to save a bit of ground clearance.
I'd say the true limit of a stock 30spl Dana60 rear is 36" tire, and that's pushing it if the truck is heavy or it's running healthy gear or xfer ratios.
I've been through this whole thing as I'm collecting parts for a new rig. I have a D60 full floating rear I was gonna use. But after checking things out have decided to go with a 14 bolt. Only reason is they are cheap. you only have 1 choice for a locker a detroit. Which if you consider that the locker is $200 cheaper than a d60 locker you can buy the axle and the locker for the price of the d60 locker. plus the axle shafts are everywhere. My buddy had a D60 full floating rear which he bored the spindals and went with d70 shafts. It worked good till he completely snapped the housing in half. The d60 rear will work it just all depends on what your doing with it. If you run the rocks with a heavy rig, it's only time till you hear that snap from the rear end.
Personally, I wouldn't bother playing with the 60 at all, a 70 at the least is the place to start, but, I really like my Sterlings, axles are 1.5" diameter, 35 spline. Sure, the diff is huge, but, I'd rather need a tug because the diff was holding me back than have to limp home on a broken rear. There's more than one mud trail around here that has a rut down the middle from me hammering it through ruts from 33's with my street tires on(31's)... LOL