I just got back from a few days in the road. sorry for the long response time. thanks guy for answering everything.


First. if you lok it once you just start to roll it will pull the R's down to about 300 and then it will go from there. the shifts arent to hard, but I have had a shift kit in the truck since I bought it so maybe I just dont notice them.


Cat man. You would prolly love it. with my 5" pipes it sounds SO SWEET. you can really lug the motor. but only for a few seconds once you pick up speed it will usually shift into 2nd at 1000 rpm even if I am nice to it. but it sound the best right off of a stop.


It can be done with just a toggle, by tapping into the purple/yellow wire and running that to your toggle, then the other side of the toggle to a ground somewhere, the LED's just look cool, and it will still work normally if you have the toggle off.

Thanks farm boy. pretty much answered all the questions. I did mine like yours, right at the front of the cab, under the master cylinder. what a pain in the A** to try and cut, strip, and splice wire under there, barely enough room to get my hand in there, much less a hand and a tool.


Diesel Rod

 

OK, I think I need to add some disclaimers to my webpage...

First off, you DO NOT want to "lug" your automatic transmission by "locking it in first gear at an idle". The line pressures on the lockup plates are NOT HIGH ENOUGH at idle to hold the lockup clutch and you will burn up your torque convertor over time.

The primary purpose of the TC lock mod is for TOWING. The TC lock mod, combined with an exhaust break will allow you to travel down long grades with minimal use of your service brake. This equates to cooler brakes at the bottom, and longer brake life.

The TC lock mod is also good for long uphill driving at speeds BELOW lockup speed (about 45mph). Keeping the Rpms up by using 1st or 2nd gear and locking the TC will allow you to keep tranny temps down during long uphill (and uphill towing) situations.

You should unlock your TC at speeds below about 25mph or RPMs below 1000 so as to avoid TC damage from low line pressures.

This mod works on all years of 7.3l powerstrokes with an auto tranny. It does not work on 6.0/torqueshift trucks. wire colors have been known to change tho. The absolute positive identification is pin 4 of the tranny plug. Located on the passenger side of the tranny, and plugs DOWN as if into the pan. The exhaust pipe usually blocks good access to that plug tho.

Yes, you can do this mod without LED's by just GROUNDING the TC lock wire using a switch and a skotch-Lok. You can also add an LED without cutting the TC wire. The only reason to cut the TC wire is to monitor both the PCM and the TC Override seperatly, such as in my webpage linked above.

 

Hey, that's a good disclaimer ford forgotton. Good to know a little more about what is going on. I knew it couldn't be too go on the tranny to let it lug real low, but now I know why.

 

Yea I figured the T/C would prolly burn up eventualy. I am not to worried. get a BTS soon. Mine also has a shift kit that raised line pressures. so that might also help. the only time i have ever felt it slip is if i lock it while doing a burnout.

But I can't complain its a fun mod, and I can't blame you for having to say what you said, since I did link it to your website. but anyway. thanks for the heads up on the T/C warning.


Diesel Rod

 

Is this mod strictly for diesels or can it be done on a gas motor? I've got the 5.4 on a 2000.

 

Yea, I guess it could be done, I don't know if the colors are the same, It will not have the same benefits on a gasser as a diesel.

1. it will just stall it if you lock it to early, gassers don't have enough low end torque, they NEED to be revved to get torque out of them.

2. It will be GREAT for engine braking, believe it or not gassers have a better engine braking then diesels, despite having a lower comprssion ratio, they have the ability to create a vacume when the throttle plates are closed, creating more dynamic braking effect, locking the converter would only enhance this upon deceleration.

So... it would work as an engine braking mechanism, but I wouldnt lock it in the low rpm range, it will just stall the motor.

Diesel Rod

 

i will be towing a 30 ft fith wheel, i want to do the t/c mod, but does a guy really need to have an exhaust brake with the t/c mod?

 

Hey guys. I want to hook my ebpv up to be a brake. Is it just a matter of grounding a wire like the tc to make it work? My sensor is broken and it would be nice to have it work on cold mornings to! Thanks in advance Lancer

 

mybigredford. No you dont need a xhaust brake to do the mod, but it will GREATLY enhance the engine braking effect, I dont have one, I rarely tow, but I have read that the exhaust brake mod works the best above 2000 rpm, so you would have to be pulling the tranny down into 2nd to get the greatest use out of it, but I dont see any reason why you wouldn't like the mod with out one.


lancer. No the EBPV works by sending power to it, there is a mod on it, I think KWIK had a nice right up on it.

You say you sensor is broke and it doesnt work. Are you sure the EBPV isn't stuck, there are a few sensor that tell it when to open and close, your Engine oil temp, the Intake Air temp, and your Exhaust back pressure sensor are three that I can think of, it also depends on how far into the throttle you are. I think if your isnt working its stuck.


Diesel Rod

 

I have a 2001 7.3 SD and the only mod is a Superchips programmer set to "tow". Just completed a 6200 mile vacation from West Texas up to WA state & back, towing a 29' fifth wheel.
I came down grades of up to 6% with just the stock tranny (auto trans.) with minimal application of the brake pedal. On downgrades over 6%, I still didn't have to use a lot of brake pedal action. I guess it is the way the PCM is set up, but I was impressed with the engine/tranny braking on this truck.
I had a '96 PSD towing a 34' fiver and had to install an aftermarket exhaust brake to keep it slowed down on the downgrades.

 

The '96 prolly had the box code that unlocks the T/C as soon as the IVS is restored, thats what mine did and I hated it, the newer codes will keep it locked until you apply the brakes, some will even keep it locked until the truck is below 35-40 MPH, kind sounds like you might have one of those.



Diesel Rod

 

Thanks 444dieselrod! I'll look into it!!

 

so 444 diesel rod, great site by the way. I was looking over it and had afew Q's,
I ve seen some folks using a reflective diode in there set up, why did you not and what benifit would a diode do? i thik Ill be trying this in the next week. thnks j

 

Well I drove it today and learned real fast it is for towing only...

Evidently I had it on when I started the truck and when I put it in drive.....wham.....I hope I didn't hurt anything....I learned in a hurry to turn it on only in 3rd or overdrive and turn it off when I'm not playing with it or towing....
It is a good engine brake but be sure to turn it off before you stop or you'll stall the engine and hurt something, or it sounds like it....whew....

 

haha robertjohn, i did the exact same thing when i fininshed mine, i had an illuminated switch, and the light was off of course so i thought that it wasnt lock, put it in gear, stalled the engine. haha i never thought you could stall an automatic. anyways i got rid of that switch cause when the t/c isnt locked the light is on. so i am putting a DPDT switch with one red LED, that way if the switch gets bumped i will see it before i put it in gear, its also the the girlfriend, cause chicks dont always know about these mods we do to our trucks and you know women, they just get in and go, lol.