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turn the key get all the gauges workin but it wont fire up and its not the starter or any of those key components its an 87 f 150 please need suggestions asap
Is the engine cranking over? Are you getting spark, Fuel?Your question is pretty confusing. If the motor turns over, pull a plug wire and ground it to see if it sparks when cranking it over. If so, then check for fuel. Not sure if you have a carb or EFI, but if a carb pull the air cleaner and look into the carb and pull the linkage to see if it squirts. If it's EFI you need to make sure your electric pumps are running which you can hear when you turn on the key. Then you'd have to check pressure with a gauge off of the schrader vave on the fuel rail. There also might be a switch near your brake pedal on the firewall called an inertia switch, make sure it isn't tripped. It's there incase you get in a crash and shuts your fuel pumps off. And I'm not sure about the 87's but there might be a fuel pump relay right behind the air filter box under the hood. Good luck.
If you turn the key on and jump the solenoid under the hood, will the truck start?? Could be a broken Lower Actuator in the steering column. Just repaired mine about (2) months ago. There are several post on here. If you think thats what it might be I can post the links.
Also could be neutral safety switch - should start in either Park or Neutral ( Auto) or with Clutch depressed (manual). This is with all lights on dash and the starter solenoid not picking up when key is turned to Start. With it in Neutral and parking brake applied, try looking at ignition switch under dash on steering column for movement of actuator rod while key is being moved to ensure problem in above post is not the culprit. The auto neutral switch is on side of transmission and the clutch switch is on the pedal linkage under dash. If auto, try holding shift handle in various positions around Park and Neutral (slight pressure on gearshift) to see if solenoid will engage. Good luck.
First of all is this a TILT wheel or not?? The lower actuator is inside the steering column head. Here's one link to a post with some info. Take a look at this and I think there is anoter link inside this post.
I have the same problem w/ my '88, no tilt, manual. I got everything apart and removed the top part of the lower actuator. the broken piece (lower piece) is still in there and I can't pull it back out. It seems that it will slide back about an inch, and then it hangs up, like the hook on the end is catching something. Everything else has been removed and i just need to get the broken piece out and then figure how to get the new actuator in. I'm quite frustrated at this point. Any help? I've read all the other posts and none of them say anything about it being hard to get the broken piece to come out.
Look on the same side of the steering column that the turn signal arm is on and see if you see a lever that you can press down on. It should be spring loaded so that when you release it, it will return to the first position. This is the release lever to be able to turn the key far enough in the off position to take the key out. The notched end of the lower actuator bumps this on its way back. Try holding this down and pulling on the stub of the broken actuator. If this is your problem it will come out. Post back with results or more questions.
Yep. came out easily, but now I cfan't figure out how to get the new piece in there. I didn't even realize this old truck had tilt steering, and the various posts talk about removing "pivot pins" but I am not sure which those are. It seems there are some pins on each side that are threaded on the inside, so I am assuming those are what I need to remove to lift the mechanism off far enough to get the new actuator in. Now I wish I had just installed a starter button and forgotten the whole thing.
Aw, Its not that bad. You'll need a pivot pin remover, OTC7889 or equal, NAPA has them in their service tools catalog for about $22. It takes a roll pin punch to drive the pin out of the tilt mechanism rack. If remove the spring on the right side of the column and then remove the roll pin that holds in the tilt mechanism rack and remove the rack, you can remove the pivot pins. You have to do this to be able to get the new lower actuator in. After doing this you can get everything back in. You need a roll pin punch, available at Harbor Freight for about $16 a set, to be able to reuse the roll pins when you drive them out. There is another roll pin that pins the lower actuator to the ignition rod that runs down to the ignition switch, the electrical switch on the column. If you need more help just post back. BTW the pivot pins are the ones on the sides.
guzzler96
Last edited by guzzler96; Dec 24, 2004 at 03:20 PM.
Reason: sp
Thanks: I gotthe pivot pins out by finding a screw with the right thread pitch in my tool box, screwing it in, and then prying the pins out with a screw driver under the head of the screw. Easy. Getting them back in was tricky, but got it done. Couldn't quite remember how everything went back together, but I thought I had it figured until I mispaced the little brass gear that goes in at the base of the lock cylinder. l'm screwed--spent all afternoon trying to figure out what the heck I did with it. Time for a beer.
Certainly hope you find it. I think if I remember you can take a "C" clamp and put on the pins and push them back in by tightening it up. Should have told you that before, HUH. Sorry.
guzzler96
Last edited by guzzler96; Dec 25, 2004 at 05:11 PM.